Which Co2 Delivery system are you using

[PKB]

Yes, I do notice some "Flashing" of plastic material on the 2nd rotor. I will trim away some plastic during my next maintenance. I notice that when I inject 3-4 BPS, both rotors are spinning smoothly but when I inject 5 -6 BPS the 2nd rotor will start to spin slower and sometime jammed up when more CO2 is trap in the reactor.

Try and open the reactor and trim the 2nd rotor to allow it to spin faster, that will further improve the Co2 dissolve rate... in some units, the rotor's plastic molding might result in a tight fit which creates resistance, ideally both rotors should be spinning very fast.

If you watch the demo video from ISTA, you can see both rotors in these reactors spinning fast:

[PKB]

The filter mat that I roll up into the reactor certainly did stop micro bubbles from exiting the reactor. The micro bubble will spin around the reactor until it is all dissolved.
Now I need to fine tune my CO2 BPS and too many BPS wll cause the 2nd rotor to jammed up. My headache is the both rotors spin smoothly when i inject 3-4 BPS but drop checker shows light blue color. But when I crank the BPS to 5-6 BPS the 2nd rotor occasionally jam up but always recover by itself and the drop check check show green.

I am thinking of changing the power head from 2 outlet to 1 outlet to increase the flow into the reactor and push CO2 injection to above 6 BPS. Will do it over during my next water change.
That will be my 7th attempt playing around with the same equipment.

I'm facing the same issue with my ista max mix (m) (connected to eheim Ecco pro 130). Similarly, I've tried to get the perfect 100% co2 dissolved rate but to no avail. Keeping my eye on this thread if you managed to solve it!

[Urban Aquaria]

The filter mat that I roll up into the reactor certainly did stop micro bubbles from exiting the reactor. The micro bubble will spin around the reactor until it is all dissolved.
Now I need to fine tune my CO2 BPS and too many BPS wll cause the 2nd rotor to jammed up. My headache is the both rotors spin smoothly when i inject 3-4 BPS but drop checker shows light blue color. But when I crank the BPS to 5-6 BPS the 2nd rotor occasionally jam up but always recover by itself and the drop check check show green.

I am thinking of changing the power head from 2 outlet to 1 outlet to increase the flow into the reactor and push CO2 injection to above 6 BPS. Will do it over during my next water change.
That will be my 7th attempt playing around with the same equipment.

Yeah, those reactors are designed and sized mainly for smaller tanks that only require lower injection rates (ie. 3-4 or less) and higher filter/pump flows (to rapidly mix the Co2)... once the BPS gets too high or the flow speed is too slow, the gas fills up the chamber faster than it can dissolve so the rotor movement is affected and the system becomes alot less efficient.

I noticed you tried splitting the Co2 hose feed but experienced only one side getting gas flow while the other side doesn't, this is because you need a dedicated 2-way splitter with each port having their with their own bubble counters and needle valves for it to work. In this way, you can fine tune each port to its specific BPS rate and provide a more moderate injection rate to each reactor (cannot just simply connect a basic Y-splitter to the Co2 line, that will not work).

The multi-way brass splitters with individual bubble counter and needles valves look something like this:



Photo from Google Images.

The photo shows a 6-way version, but you can get an idea how a 2-way version would be setup.

[PKB]

Thank UA for all the help, your info really helps. It just justify all the problem that I am facing on the splitters and the jammed reactor rotor.

Yeah, those reactors are designed and sized mainly for smaller tanks that only require lower injection rates (ie. 3-4 or less) and higher filter/pump flows (to rapidly mix the Co2)... once the BPS gets too high or the flow speed is too slow, the gas fills up the chamber faster than it can dissolve so the rotor movement is affected and the system becomes alot less efficient.

I noticed you tried splitting the Co2 hose feed but experienced only one side getting gas flow while the other side doesn't, this is because you need a dedicated 2-way splitter with each port having their with their own bubble counters and needle valves for it to work. In this way, you can fine tune each port to its specific BPS rate and provide a more moderate injection rate to each reactor (cannot just simply connect a basic Y-splitter to the Co2 line, that will not work).

The multi-way brass splitters with individual bubble counter and needles valves look something like this:



Photo from Google Images.

The photo shows a 6-way version, but you can get an idea how a 2-way version would be setup.

[PKB]

I trimmed the 2nd rotor on the reactor and it is certainly spinning much better, no more jam up even if i am injecting 5- 6 BPS. I am injecting 5 BPS + 10ml excel daily But I still cannot achieve the color I correct color on the drop checker.

IMG_6838.JPG

Yes, I do notice some "Flashing" of plastic material on the 2nd rotor. I will trim away some plastic during my next maintenance. I notice that when I inject 3-4 BPS, both rotors are spinning smoothly but when I inject 5 -6 BPS the 2nd rotor will start to spin slower and sometime jammed up when more CO2 is trap in the reactor.

[PKB]

The 2nd rotor is spinning much better after trimming.

Rotor spinning speed without CO2 injection.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzsjr35cgkM

Rotor Spinning speed with 7-8 BPS, the rotor doesn't jam up anymore after the trim
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avoLOHsd3uo

Try and open the reactor and trim the 2nd rotor to allow it to spin faster, that will further improve the Co2 dissolve rate... in some units, the rotor's plastic molding might result in a tight fit which creates resistance, ideally both rotors should be spinning very fast.

If you watch the demo video from ISTA, you can see both rotors in these reactors spinning fast:

[glamourjojo]

I use glass diffuser and change to ISTA reactor really make a big different.

[stream]

Just an update to this thread... a few days back i broke one of my inline diffuser Co2 input ports while doing maintenance (those are the thinnest bits of plastic on diffuser units, very easy to snap off if not careful), basically rendering it useless.

I considered fixing it with epoxy glue, but didn't want to risk it due to the higher pressures i'm running on my system.

So i decided to get a replacement system. Eventually getting the ISTA external CO2 reactor from LFS (similiar design to the Sera version that Atham is using from a few posts back).

Got it setup...



I've been using it for a few days and so far it works great, Co2 diffusion rate is near 100%, i can see a vortex/whirlpool of Co2 gas swirling around at the top section of the reactor getting chopped up by the impellers and diffused into the water. No visible bubbles getting into the tank so its a nice change from the mist effect with my previous ceramic based inline diffuser.

I maintained the same bps rate as before and my drop checker still shows the same green color. The plants are still growing and pearling well so it is effective.

The only thing is when the Co2 is actively being injected there is a slight trickling sound from the reactor, though you have to get close to notice it. I have mine in a cabinet so i can't hear it unless i open the cabinet door. Otherwise its virtually silent when Co2 is not injected.

For this model, it recommends to use canister filters which have between 360 l/ph - 1,000 l/ph flow rates for optimal performance. I assume if the flow is too slow, the system may get stuck, and if too fast the Co2 bubbles might just get washed out too quickly without being fully dissolved.

The good thing about this type of reactor system is it doesn't require high pressure to operate, so it's usable for those with lower pressure Co2 regulators too.

Overall, quite happy with this system.

Hi UA and Atham

Are you still using the ISTA external CO2 Reactor? I've just installed mine today. I've noticed that once my CO2 is turned off via timer, water slowly creeps up the CO2 tube. When the CO2 is on, the CO2 pressure pushes the water back to the reactor bottle. Do you see the same thing in your setup?

[Urban Aquaria]

Hi UA and Atham

Are you still using the ISTA external CO2 Reactor? I've just installed mine today. I've noticed that once my CO2 is turned off via timer, water slowly creeps up the CO2 tube. When the CO2 is on, the CO2 pressure pushes the water back to the reactor bottle. Do you see the same thing in your setup?

Yes, when the Co2 injection is off, the water will gradually creep back up the Co2 tubing, this is normal as the gas is used up and the back pressure from the tank's water volume fills back the tubing. As long as you have a check-valve installed before the reactor, the water will stop there and wouldn't move further into the bubble counter.

[Beginner2015]

The up aqua inline diffuser have so many good reviews and I am tempted to try it out. I have only purchased the pressurised CO2 with Ocean free solenoid from C328 last month and using it with the glass diffuser. Will the solenoid regulator work with this diffuser? Otherwise what would be the next best alternative?
thanks.

[Urban Aquaria]

The up aqua inline diffuser have so many good reviews and I am tempted to try it out. I have only purchased the pressurised CO2 with Ocean free solenoid from C328 last month and using it with the glass diffuser. Will the solenoid regulator work with this diffuser? Otherwise what would be the next best alternative?
thanks.

You'll have to check the working pressure of the regulator (usually the right side gauge) to see if the pressure is high enough to use inline atomizers/diffusers.

If its not high enough, the other options could be just sticking with in-tank ceramic diffuser, or try inline ceramic diffuser (those are basically same as in-tank ones, just that they are housed in a chamber outside the tank, less clutter), or can try inline reactors too.

[Beginner2015]

Working pressure is just 29-30psi. Would that work? The glass diffuser always turns brownish within a week even though I don't have alot of algae problems. So I rather have a diffuser out of the tank.

[Urban Aquaria]

Working pressure is just 29-30psi. Would that work?

Looks like the working pressure is below the requirements to run those inline atomizers/diffusers, you'll need a regulator with higher working pressure to use those.

The glass diffuser always turns brownish within a week even though I don't have alot of algae problems. So I rather have a diffuser out of the tank.

Yeah, in-tank diffusers do tend to be algae/mulm magnets, you could switch to the external inline versions if you prefer less maintenance (though they will both still require regular cleaning and de-clogging of the ceramic disc due to dirt/mineral buildup).

[Beginner2015]

Capture.JPG
Does the working pressure varies when paired with different distribution methods? I cannot find any information regarding the working pressure for oceanfree regulator.
When used with glass diffuser, its 30PSI and I don't think there are much options with 30PSI. Even with intank atomiser, higher pressure is required.

[Shadow]

working pressure is constant depending on the regulator design. However there are regulator with adjustable working pressure, normally its dual stage regulator.

[Urban Aquaria]

Capture.JPG
Does the working pressure varies when paired with different distribution methods? I cannot find any information regarding the working pressure for oceanfree regulator.
When used with glass diffuser, its 30PSI and I don't think there are much options with 30PSI. Even with intank atomiser, higher pressure is required.

For most of the solenoid regulators we use, they have a fixed working pressure that is already pre-set by the manufacturer (unless you managed to buy one that is adjustable).

Just look at the gauge which shows working pressure (when the solenoid is not in operation yet), that is the starting default set working pressure. That is what you base on.

With 30 PSI pre-set working pressure, you can use normal ceramic diffusers or reactors, as those don't require higher pressures to work.

Atomizer systems use much finer pore ceramic tubes which need higher pressure to squeeze out the tinier bubbles, so if you want to use those (whether in-tank or external in-line versions), you'll need regulators with higher working pressure.

[bombomlee]

Carrying on the topic of atomizers, I bought an ANS intense co2 atomizer size L, wouldn't work with my single gauge Oceanfree regulator..

I just upgraded to the oceanfree solenoid regulator dual gauge, seems to have 42PSI working pressure? This is after it feels up the spiral-type glass ceramic diffuser. It was at 50PSI when the water was up the co2 tubing.

Would this regulator be able to run the ANS intense?

[Urban Aquaria]

Carrying on the topic of atomizers, I bought an ANS intense co2 atomizer size L, wouldn't work with my single gauge Oceanfree regulator..

I just upgraded to the oceanfree solenoid regulator dual gauge, seems to have 42PSI working pressure? This is after it feels up the spiral-type glass ceramic diffuser. It was at 50PSI when the water was up the co2 tubing.

Would this regulator be able to run the ANS intense?

The working pressure will usually show abit higher when the solenoid is off (because there is no back pressure yet), when its on, there will be some back pressure from the diffuser, so the working pressure will display slightly lower.

Based on your existing working pressure, it should be able to run atomizer systems, though you'll have to test it to know for sure.

[bombomlee]

Thank you so much UA, just read post #218 by you as well,

"Note that such ceramic diffusers are not all made to the same density or quality, so the actual product may not work the same. You'll have to test them to find out for sure."

I shall go test it out and see!

[bombomlee]

Okay, just hooked up the ANS intense atomizer, the regulator is pushing 46/48PSI now at 1BPS.

Should I continue with this atomizer? Afraid something might give way at some connection. Currently its regulator/solenoid/bubble counter - check valve, check valve, ANS intense atomizer. I secured cable ties to the check valve/tubing connections already, so its either the tubing slips out even with the cable ties or the tubing ruptures. Will it be safe to continue?