Reply With QuoteHi adrodema,
I am also facing the same problem.
This green firm of algae that i had on my tank's wall is pretty easy to be remove.
Similarly, I am also using TMG.
Don't have this problem before.
Folks, need your help in dealing with a green film of algae that grows on my tank glass; fairly easy to remove like brown algae. It only appeared after i started dosing with 5ml of tmg weekly as well as upping the co2 to 2bps a month after the initial setup
Tank Dimensions (LxWxH): 2ft x 1ft x ?
Lighting Intensity(No of Watts) : 72 watts
Type of Lighting (FL/PL/MH) : PL
No. of Hours your light is on: 9hrs
CO2 Injection Rate (bps) :2 bps
Type of CO2 (DIY/Liquid/Tank) : tank
Method of Injection (e.g. Diffusor/Reactor): reactor
Substrate Used : ADA malayan
How Thick is your base fert : 1cm-1.5cm
How thick is your gravel : 8 cm
Liquid Fertilizers Used : Tropica master grow
Frequency of fertilization : once a week, after 20% water change
Tank Temperature : 26.7 degrees to 28 degrees
Type of Filter (overhead/internal/canister) : canister
Filter media used :
How long has your tank been set up : close to 2 mnths
Chemical Properties (Fill what you can)
---------------------------------------
Carbonate Hardness (kh):
Total Hardness (gH):
PH :
NH4 (ppm):
NO2 (ppm):
NO3 (ppm):
PO4 (ppm):
Fe (ppm):
Bioload (Your Fish and Plants)
ludwiga sp cuba, green macradra, red rotala macradra, ludwiga arcuata, blyxa japonica, hairgrass
5 amstrongi, 1 dwarf pencil, 1 sae, 2 otos
P/s can't really determine the exact level of co2 in the water. This is because using values determined by the ph and kh test kits and comparing against those co2 calculation tables is quite inaccurate due to the properties of the ADA soil. Plants are bubbling marvellously though.
Would appreciate the advice of y'all guys!
Hi adrodema,
I am also facing the same problem.
This green firm of algae that i had on my tank's wall is pretty easy to be remove.
Similarly, I am also using TMG.
Don't have this problem before.
Yippie!! Reptiles and Fishies!
Guys.... do a seach on "green dust" that'll solve your problems.
I've just left it alone for about 2 weeks, letting the glass get pretty green etc.
You'll see the film bubble up and get hard, the GDA has completed it's ife cycle and can now be removed.
Resist wiping it off.
It'll keep coming back and settling on the glass otherwise.
Wait till you see it form spots etc, then clean it off very well, and dose the entire time like you normally have.
Regards,
Tom Barr
www.BarrReport.com
Hi all,
The green film on my tank wall is gone.
This is what I had done after reading through thread regarding GD. Just to share with you.
First, i do a water change of more than 80%. This will reveal all or most of the green film to the air.
Then I use the toilet paper to wipe away all the exposed green film. This is not difficult as this green film can be removed pretty easily. But try not to allow the green film to drip back to the water. You will end up using a lot of toilet paper.
Follow, i use some more toilet paper to wipe again to ensure that there is no more left.
After that, I top up my tank with water and scape the wall of the tank with the credit card.
Lastly, I dosed my tank with all the nutrients as per normal but I slightly increased the dosage for the PO4.
This is already after 3 days and there is still no sign of the GD. My GD usually comes back 2 to 3 days. Keep my finger cross.
Besides not cleaning off the algae, all other conditions should be left alone right? Meaning dose normally, lights the same, CO2 the same level...Originally Posted by Plantbrain
Also, after the GDA has completed its life cycle, wouldn't some spores be still around? Wouldn't the algae start a new life cycle with new spores? I have no idea how this algae works, hence the question...
Yes, from what I've read.
I read it seems to be triggered by lighting.
No, it never has come back and many folks have reported similar things, takes awhile, hard for many to resist wiping the glass though
Regards,
Tom Barr
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