How to remove pin from a solenoid

[blur2x]

Does anyone has experience in removing a pin from a solonoid? (The pin or neddle? that open or close the CO2 flow)

[bclee]

Pin? The solenoid valve don't use any pins. It is some kind of diaphram that opens and closes.

BC

[blur2x]

Pin? The solenoid valve don't use any pins. It is some kind of diaphram that opens and closes.

BC

Ehm... then I have to remove the whole solenoid (to convert my electric regulator to a manual regulator for 24x7 operation). Thanks for the reply.

[eric_kclee]

Does anyone has experience in removing a pin from a solonoid? (The pin or neddle? that open or close the CO2 flow)

Halo,
You can convert it from Auto to Manual like what you say. I believe you know what you are saying when you say solenoid.

You are refering to the Solenoid that control the on/off of the CO2 flow. That component made up of 2 parts, Solenoid Valve and the Solenoid Coil (the black thing which is connected to the power supply).

To convert it to Maunal, meaning making it ON all the time,

1. Turn off the CO2 main valve. Release the CO2 in the Solenoid as well.
2. remove the solenoid coil from the solenoid valve. It is usually secure with single screw and a C-clip. Try to figure out how to remove it, it is very simple...and don't worry, you wont spoilt anything. (remember to turn off the CO2 first before you do anything)

3. Then you will see a shaft connected to the solenoid valve, That is actually a hollow shaft that house the solenoid pin/plunger.

4. You probably need to unscrew 4 screw, then you will see the plunger/pin with spring attached to it. Remove the pin and save keep it somewhere.

5. Now fix everything back without the pin and the spring. You solenoid vale will now be ALWAYS ON. and CO2 will flow 24/7.

[bclee]

Personally, I think unscrewing the whole solenoid and connect the needle valve directly to the regulator an easier option.

BTW, why do you want to change to 24/7 CO2 injection? Save $$$ on electricity bill? :P

BC

[eric_kclee]

Personally, I think unscrewing the whole solenoid and connect the needle valve directly to the regulator an easier option.

BTW, why do you want to change to 24/7 CO2 injection? Save $$$ on electricity bill? :P

BC

I think otherwise, I did that once before...and my reasons are.. (not in sequence of importance)

1. Save electricity
2. Less power socket needed (most aq already used up many)
3. Less fire hazard (solenoid can get overheated and blow)
4. Keeping PH low all the time.
5. No harm.

And I remove the pin because I just want to try out and I might regret later, then I just put back the pin. Very much reversible and not major moification..

Just a different view from BC.

[blur2x]

Personally, I think unscrewing the whole solenoid and connect the needle valve directly to the regulator an easier option.

Agree. That thought came into my mind but I hate using vise, tong, etc

BTW, why do you want to change to 24/7 CO2 injection? Save $$$ on electricity bill? :P

BC

Two reasons:

1. To remove the solenoid and just use the dual-gauge regualtor to lower the CO2 pressure from 1000 bars into ~5 bars for better control with needle valve. This is due to cost. See the next para for a short story

A normal (single gauge) manual regulator doesn't control the flow rate well. Imagine you are trying to control an air flow with pressure of 1000 bars. As the result, too much CO2 get pumped into the tank resulting in some casualties (next morning coming into office with some fish belly up and shrimps lay flat at the bottom ), or too little/no CO2 at all resulting in algae bloom This is an office tank.

So I was looking for a manual dual-gauge regulator in the market and found Sam Yick just started to carry such equipment (very nice one, from Europe) but at much higher price than getting a China/Taiwan-made dual-gauge regulator with solenoid from NA and remove or shut off the solenoid to operate it a manual. Sure, I can get a cheaper deal from a company that sell welding equipment. But such a company usually is located in far-away/remote area and I have to take taxi and time.

2. I notice that with CO2 flow of 24x7, I have (close to) zero problem with nasty algae (BBA & hair algae). Up to certain point though (such as normal lighting not like 3WPG). With much light, manually controlled CO2 flow will not be enough.

I have two tanks at home. One (1ft, heavily planted, few fish) with CO2 running 24x7. Very little problem with algae. The other one (new tank, 2ft, ~20 cardinal tetra + shrimps and otos, is attempting to add more plants and reduce fish count) with control flow of CO2 ~9 hrs/day, now is fighting againt damn BBA. At a higher rate of pumping the CO2, fish will be gulping for air at the surface. BBA problem could be the result of my recent lanscaping attempts and base fertilizer leakage.

There are whole lot more with what I just mentioned in the paragraph above which I won't elabote here. Readers can read those algae-related problem in the section Planted Tanks: Fertilisation and Algae. Tom will be screaming: "More CO2, damn it!"

[blur2x]

... and some same answers as eric_kclee's

2. Less power socket needed (most aq already used up many)
3. Less fire hazard (solenoid can get overheated and blow)


plus the HR building maintenance supervisor will not be screaming at me "Do you know that you are using plugs that are not approved by PSB?"

[tawauboy]

solenoid valve plays no part in whether you can control the flow rate well. its job is to stop or allow co2 to flow. and the solenoid consumes very little power, not more than $0.50 per month.

and i believe most if not all regulators allows you to attach or detach the solenoid valve. so take up the tools and remove the solenoid valve,if that's what you want.

without a solenoid valve, most likely you'll not be able to keep the co2 high enough. because during light off period, you'll not want to co2 overdose. and achieving this condition means that during light on period, you'll be hard pressed to supply the required 20-30ppm of co2.