They will survive...as long as the tank does not overheat in the day due to being in direct sunlight Amazon forest gets pretty cold at night too^^ so they can handle it
hi all,
A question I would like to ask, as I am thinking of setting up a tank in my room, but I sleep with air con on in the night,
just wondering, will the fluatuations in the temperature affect fishes like neon tetras, danios etc??
as I only on the air con at night so I am guessing temperature of the water will be ranging from 21 to 23 degree celcius to when air con is off at 27 to 30 degree celcius
They will survive...as long as the tank does not overheat in the day due to being in direct sunlight Amazon forest gets pretty cold at night too^^ so they can handle it
Agreed with GHD97 bro, but beside flucatuatin temperatures, you'll find that your water will evaporate very fast.
I tried to keep tetras in aircon room (night only). the temperature fluctuation always caused white spot .
it happened couple of times till I gave up. all my other fishes survived like otos , L183, corys. temperature rang from 25 nite -28 day
shrimps like red cherry can breed/survive in these conditions.
I agree with these guys, my tank contains neon tetras and fire red shrimp and both survive well, the shrimps breed in the tank. In the past, none of the shrimp would survive in the same room in a smaller (1.5ft) tank, so perhaps the rate of temperature change is also a factor - larger tank would reach the temperature extremes more gradually. The current tank is 2.5ft and although I don't use aircon every night, the temperature range is similar to what you've described.
Re white spot, once it's in your tank, any stressor to the fish (e.g other waste and not just temp) can cause the disease to start up again. From what I know, it doesn't come from tap water - either comes in on a fish (should be visible on the fish) or perhaps in contaminated LFS water? Eradication takes some effort and may be prolonged because of the various life stages of the parasite which are not all susceptible to medications.
I was just reading about that a few days ago! The dish is to keep the substrate clean to maintain water quality. People use various methods like pinch the food n put directly into dish or they have a glass tube like a chimney directly over the dish then they pour food into the opening at the water surface n it is guided down into the dish by the tube. I think you can use any inert material dish but some of the more plant/shrimp places like green chapter sell the aquarium-branded ones. Can't remember the price sorry
sad.. 4 of my fire shrimps didn't made it... got another batch of 10 from Y618 and a feeding dish from there for 1.50 for the small sized one... now doing the the drip acclimatisation for my new shrimps... I am using my extra filter hose to guide the food down to the dish haha
Yeah I used to have problems with shrimp dying (like an entire bag of 15 within 1 week). In the end what worked was I bought a bag of 50 shrimp and the fittest did survive and bred, nature at its best I have fish so my shrimp just eat leftover fish food and I'm quite an expert algae grower so they seem to do fine without special shrimp food or shrimp plates
yea totally agreed, till date I have lost about 15 to 16 shrimps now left with about 14 shrimps left in my 1 feet tank.. tested water parameters is ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 40 which is a bit high, gh 3 and kh 1 with ph 6.8 going to get some frogbits to absorb the nitrate already.
Good idea, 40 is not massively high but I guess the lower the better! My tank is heavily planted (algae farm) so I've never seen much elevation in nitrates
anyway, is a 2213 attached to a hailea 130a chiller enough for a say 60litres tank??
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