ridding this algae(S)!

[furyprix]

Hi bros, I've been battling algae since the i started this tank. I've been through diatom boom...to reach yet another higher level with the seemingly invincible algae!
I'm using ADA amazonia as my substrate in my 2x1x1.5ft tank, with majority slow growing plants, pinnatifidas, ferns, fissidens and HC. Current inhabitants are 8 baby lampeyes, 3 sakura shrimps, 1 otto and 1 amano shrimp. Fauna are doing well, shrimps are molting and active. CO2 injection is ~1bps, DIY. Lights are 4hrs on, 5hrs off, 4hrs on, with a Z series LED.

I managed to shrug off the diatom boom by starting to dose K 2 weeks ago. Plants are recovering, but slow. HC still seem to have trouble recovering, especially the 'older' parts of the plant, which still seem to be yellowing.

For fertilisers(weekly):
2x 2ml seachem flourish
2x 5ml seachem K (~3+ppm per dose)
2x 1ml seachem Fe
2x 1ml seachem excel

I have just done a nitrate test and the results are 5-10ppm (using API test kit).

Hope to get some inspiration on how to further manage this issue.

The green algae in the second picture is growing all over the hardscape, tank walls and pinnatifidas (i did some cleaning, photos do not show the extent of the damage done). Ottos and shrimps are unable to deal with it, only manual scrub can rid it. But they just grow back in a few days. Next is the black colour algae that form clumps on the tip of my HC (new growth), attempting to suffocate them, as well as threads extending from HC/fissidens that drift with the current. Lastly, I have started to see green spots (very very few) on my tank walls this week.

[CPONovice]

get more algae cleaners? I got 5 otos , 10 amano shrimps and 2 nerite snail to clean up my 2ft tank

[furyprix]

get more algae cleaners? I got 5 otos , 10 amano shrimps and 2 nerite snail to clean up my 2ft tank

the shrimps and otto seem to ignore whatever algae is present. they used to graze on the diatoms that was flourishing then...but nowadays, I have no idea what they feed on. I have not fed them since the day I bought them

[bennyc]

algae problem roots from the tri factors. Lighting, CO2 and nutrients. DIY CO2 has fluctuating levels of CO2. new soil with low plant mass will result in excess nutrient in the water column, couple with low and fluctuating CO2 with cause algae.

try to increase more plants, use frogbits and have more water changes to try to achieve a more balanced state.

[thebaldingaquarist]

can i suggest to change your thinking a little.

instead of asking why algae is so apparent in the tank, ask.. why are the plants not taking up the nutrients..

you have N measured
you dose K
what/where is P?

micros you have Fe, for the rest, you can get them from fish food to some extent, so are you feeding?

CO2, DIY is fine, but what is the CO2 concentration? any indicator liquid? remember that KH affects the amount of Co2 dissolved in water. so 1bps tells us dosage, but does not tell us absorption.

Lights.. you have a planted tank. Understand you want to do a siesta hour, but 5 hours is too long. the plants need to restart their photosynthetic activity after 5 hours.
make it 4 hours on, 2 hours off, 4 hours on.

[sateman]

Have you tried Easy life "AlgExit". It worked well for me.

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...Outbreak/page3

[felix_fx2]

How long this tank? Like not enough plant mass...

Some algae Ok la, not until everything is covered.

If you want siesta, 4 on 4 off 4 on Ok already. 424 also Ok.

Using what filter? Cannot see if you have any flow problem anot.

Your virgin try? Hc normally unless you did enough homework you'll meet problems.

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[tetrakid]

My problem is not enough algae... lol. So little that my two tiny Horned Nerite Snails have to starve every day looking for algae.

[furyprix]

Have you tried Easy life "AlgExit". It worked well for me.

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...Outbreak/page3

hmm..trying to not dose chemicals, trying to go the natural way. stubborn me haha.

How long this tank? Like not enough plant mass...

Some algae Ok la, not until everything is covered.

If you want siesta, 4 on 4 off 4 on Ok already. 424 also Ok.

Using what filter? Cannot see if you have any flow problem anot.

Your virgin try? Hc normally unless you did enough homework you'll meet problems.

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i am currently using eheim ecco pro 130, i do agree that the flow rate is barely sufficient even though i have another small pump in my tank. the green fuzzy algae grows better on surfaces that receive less flow. Yes, its my first attempt at growing HC, a very painful experience I have to say. the challenge is what's appealing

can i suggest to change your thinking a little.

instead of asking why algae is so apparent in the tank, ask.. why are the plants not taking up the nutrients..

you have N measured
you dose K
what/where is P?

micros you have Fe, for the rest, you can get them from fish food to some extent, so are you feeding?

CO2, DIY is fine, but what is the CO2 concentration? any indicator liquid? remember that KH affects the amount of Co2 dissolved in water. so 1bps tells us dosage, but does not tell us absorption.

Lights.. you have a planted tank. Understand you want to do a siesta hour, but 5 hours is too long. the plants need to restart their photosynthetic activity after 5 hours.
make it 4 hours on, 2 hours off, 4 hours on.

Don't have the budget to invest in other test kits because I feel that its not worth the money. Yes i'm feeding, but in very minute amounts so i am counting on flourish comprehensive to provide the micros. I've read that P is a very tricky macro to dose? and many have encountered issues dosing it. Besides, I read that in some dosing regimes, P is avoided and compensated via other means such as feeding/substrate/WC.


For now, I think i will do a thorough cleaning of my diffuser, hopefully to increase the rate of CO2 dissolving into the water column. Lighting regime will be changed to 4-4-4 (same as my low tech). Possibly addition of more flora and fauna if i get the time to purchase them this weekend. A big thank you to all who responded! More comments/advices are welcomed!

[felix_fx2]

Painful is good... Cause you learn deep deep.

Unless with propper co2, majority of 1st timers fail due to lack of understanding how hc grows and the bare minimum requirements for it to flourish.

But then, keep trying.. As the real hobbyist know not just to grow plant but control algae growth.

Welcome to algae club

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[furyprix]

Painful is good... Cause you learn deep deep.

Unless with propper co2, majority of 1st timers fail due to lack of understanding how hc grows and the bare minimum requirements for it to flourish.

But then, keep trying.. As the real hobbyist know not just to grow plant but control algae growth.

Welcome to algae club

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every weekend WC can harvest algae~!

To be honest, algae is not an issue if its not killing my plants.

[felix_fx2]

every weekend WC can harvest algae~!

To be honest, algae is not an issue if its not killing my plants.

Yup yup, their actually our subcontractor. Minimum amount used as indicator of tank conditions.

One such thing you learnt is water flow.

Actually some of the folks are trying to grow algae selectively. Like I am trying to.... Super tough job

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[Urban Aquaria]

Try increasing your shrimp count... just 3 sakura and 1 amano shrimps wouldn't be able have much effect in helping to manage or stall those algae in your tank size. For your tank volume, you should be having at least 12-15 amano shrimps... or 70-90 cherry shrimps (based on "algae eating capability"/size ratio of 1 amano vs 6 cherry shrimp).

Either get more amano shrimps or get those large bulk bags of cherry shrimps (usually around $10 for 50pcs), both will help in algae control when in optimal numbers, it just depends on which type of shrimps you prefer.

Here are some experiments on effectiveness of algae eaters done by Tropica:

http://www.tropica.com/en/tropica-ab...e-control.aspx

http://www.tropica.com/en/tropica-ab...ae-eaters.aspx

You can also add 2-3 more otocinclus to keep the tank glass and plant leaves clean.

Adding 4-5 nerite snails is also a good idea too, they will help clear up green spot algae before it becomes an issue. Each algae eater goes for different types of algae, so its all a matter of creating an algae crew combination that complement each other.

[Urban Aquaria]

Just to add, since you are already injecting DIY Co2 (which i assume is on 24/7), its not really necessary to run a siesta regimen... that's mainly for tanks without Co2 injection and which want to naturally replenish the very limited Co2 (ie. only 2-5ppm) present in the water.

Note that there are those who do inject Co2 and still use a 2-shift photoperiod (usually because they want the tank lights to be on when they come home late at night), but for those setups they usually time the Co2 injection to also switch on and off with the lights to reduce the fluctuations in Co2 levels, or else there is a chance the unused excess Co2 may climb too high levels during the interim lights off period.

In your case, since your plant mass is still low, there is no point supplying all the excess light shining on bare substrate and hardscape anyways, which just end up feeding algae... therefore you could try running the lights on just one single shorter photo period of 4-5 hours for the start, then gradually increase to 5-6 hours and then 6-7 hours and so on once the plant mass increases.

[furyprix]

Just to add, since you are already injecting DIY Co2 (which i assume is on 24/7), its not really necessary to run a siesta regimen... that's mainly for tanks without Co2 injection and which want to naturally replenish the very limited Co2 (ie. only 2-5ppm) present in the water.

Note that there are those who do inject Co2 and still use a 2-shift photoperiod (usually because they want the tank lights to be on when they come home late at night), but for those setups they usually time the Co2 injection to also switch on and off with the lights to reduce the fluctuations in Co2 levels, or else there is a chance the unused excess Co2 may climb too high levels during the interim lights off period.

In your case, since your plant mass is still low, there is no point supplying all the excess light shining on bare substrate and hardscape anyways, which just end up feeding algae... therefore you could try running the lights on just one single shorter photo period of 4-5 hours for the start, then gradually increase to 5-6 hours and then 6-7 hours and so on once the plant mass increases.

well, im hoping to replenish Co2 levels, and also for me to look at the tank because I come home late almost everyday due to the nature of my work

After hearing out, I guess the 2 factors that I'm considering to fix now is
1. insufficient P -> consider dosing P/add more fauna and get P through feeding
2. insufficient flow (certain parts of the tank, especially the side with the inflow&outflow) -> change my pump into a stronger wavemaker, to increase overall circular flow within the tank

I do see pearling in the tank (slow & minimal) with a substantial portion coming from the fuzzy algae on my DW...

Because my DIY Co2 is running 24/7, would it be wise to let a air pump run at times when the lights are off? (especially though the night) I see that some of my shrimps like to hang around at the water's edge.

[Urban Aquaria]

Dosing phosphate can be abit tricky as too much could encourage algae growth, with an initial low plant mass in a new tank, it's likely the phosphate content in the aqua soil is still at sufficient levels... though i guess you could get a phosphate test kit to measure, otherwise you could just do the trial and error method by gradually increasing phosphate dosages in stages and see if the algae react to it.

Increasing flow and circulation would definitely help too, less dead spots the better.

The algae on driftwood pearling is probably because it's directly under and closer to the lights? Maybe you could consider repositioning the driftwood, or perhaps reposition the lights so that it is directed more towards the plants that need it.

Your shrimps hanging out near the water surface could indicate low oxygen levels (if the tank is already experiencing oxygen shortage even with a relatively low bio-load, then the system might already be at the tipping point, so it'll be better to solve it before adding more fauna). That's one of the challenges with DIY Co2 as it can't be timed like an electronic solenoid system, so running an air pump on timer during lights off and at night is a good way to increase surface agitation and promote gas exchange.

[joyshorty]

Either get more amano shrimps or get those large bulk bags of cherry shrimps (usually around $10 for 50pcs), both will help in algae control when in optimal numbers, it just depends on which type of shrimps you prefer

Sorry gentleman.. Off topic abit..

Bro UA, where can we buy in bulk as mentioned?

[AQMS]

How many weeks is the set up?
You did not mention it.

[Urban Aquaria]

Sorry gentleman.. Off topic abit..

Bro UA, where can we buy in bulk as mentioned?

You can check at LFS like C328 and Y618... btw, i posted a thread with some photos of what those bulk bags look like:

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...lk-bags-at-LFS

Hope that helps!

[furyprix]

How many weeks is the set up?
You did not mention it.

hah, somebody dig out my thread. oh well, it was probably my 2nd month after flooding. After dosing phosphates and adding an additional HOF, I seem to be able to get things under control. less algae and my plants are recovering pretty decently well just waiting for them to fill up the empty space..and i reckon its gonna take another 2months or so