New to Dennerle ferts

[overdrive]

Hi everyone, Dennerle just came into Malaysian shores and I just bought myself the full set: E15, V30, S7, Gold7 and TR7. I'm new to Dennerle, so would appreciate if I could get some feedback on experienced users on how's the best way to fertilise using Dennerle ferts. They recommended fertilising after every water change every 2 weeks alternating between E15 and V30. What if one changes water every week? Or should I just do a water change every 2 weeks according to instructions? Thanks people for your help

[badman]

dennerle fert, u just need to follow the label. E15 meaning dosing every 15 days. V30, every 30 days. just follow the instruction and your plants will benefit greatly. used it for few months but too poor to carry on using them. but its really good.

[overdrive]

Hi Badman, you've stopped using it? why? But I find its the cheapest in the market when compared to other brands (SERA, AZOO, etc..) when used in the long run since you only use about 3 tablets of E15 a month for a 4 feet tank. This means a 100tabs of E15 will last you around a year or more in a 4 feet! By the way just want to ask, you said just to follow the label, which means I only need to make a waterchange once every 2 weeks? What if I change water every week, can I still alternate E15 and V30 but half the amount? Thanks for your info.

[bclee]

IMO, it is definitely not the cheapest ferts around. I now spend <50% of the price of Dennerle on fertilisers.

BC

[crusader]

yup. If possible i also hope to push my products into M'sia

[prec]

i think dr mallick's ferts are more affordable to most pple. dennerle is never cheap to me.. im a poor guy..

[barmby]

Dennerle is branded stuff. "Gucci" fertilizer.

[wssay]

Seems like they are the only brand which claim that their fertilizers do not promote algae growth.

[Peter Mok]

Yes, Ian of Kingfisher told me that he has tried out a lot of brands and found that Dennerle Gold7 can really suppress algae much more effectively compared to others. He highly recommended Dennerle to me.

Sorry, want to borrow the thread to ask whether there is nitrate in Dennerle fertilisers. If nitrate is low, do I just add more Dennerle fertilisers or should I add in KNO3?

[Peter Mok]

I posted some questions to Dennerle and I just got a reply from them yesterday.

They have changed the fertilisation recommendation for E15 & v30.

E15 now is a tablet for every 100l for the whole water column on every 15th of a month instead of a tablet for every 20l of newly added water.

As for V30, now is 2.5cc for every 100l for the whole water column on every 30th of a month instead of 2.5cc for every 20l of newly added water.

Therefore, now the frequency of water change has no bearing on the fertilisation regime of E15 and V30.

Then, on the question of nitrates and phosphates, they said it is rarely required to add such macros into the water in addition to Dennerle fertilisers. They said in nature the ppm of such macros is very minute and connot be detected by our normal hobbyist test kit. Regular water change for our tank should be sufficient to replenish such macros. I am a bit confused as I thought it is good to maintain about 10 ppm of nitrates in the tank??? Nevertheless, they said it is a good idea to regularly check and monitor the nitrate and phosphate levels in our tank (I suppose to check for too high concentration then).

Can anybody who has used Dennerle fertilisers before share with us your experience?

[overdrive]

I keep a bottle of KNO3 and a Nutrafin NPK for the PO4. Since Dennerle do not have these in their ferts. I test for NO3 and PO4 and maintain them at around 5-10mg/l NO3 and 0.4-0.5mg/l of PO4. I always dose KNO3 and Phosphate to that amount cuz the last time when I had a NO3 of zero I had BGA and BBA. And when my PO4 became zero, my plant growth slowed down (algae started growing).

Yeah its true, I've emailed them too & Dennerle has a new fertilising scheme which makes it even more affordable now But according to them it is still internal. Currently I'm dividing the recommended dosage into once a week instead of once in 2 weeks. I use half the amount of E15 or V30, but alternating btw these 2 fertilisers once a week instead of once every 2 weeks. This way I still end up dosing the same amount every month. I've been doing this for a month already & results are great.

[andrewtyr]

i wanna make my toninas stronger...i ve been recommended dennerle E15....how much does it cost?....for toninas...

what Dr Mallick's products is good for it?....how much does it cost?

[Plantbrain]

[quote:2dbde05a42="wssay"]Seems like they are the only brand which claim that their fertilizers do not promote algae growth.[/quote:2dbde05a42]

Just about anyone could make this claim unless it has NH4, ammoinum or urea in it. Example: house plant fertilizers.

Regards,
Tom Barr

[Plantbrain]

[quote:a6fc56925f="Peter Mok"]I posted some questions to Dennerle and I just got a reply from them yesterday.

Then, on the question of nitrates and phosphates, they said it is rarely required to add such macros into the water in addition to Dennerle fertilisers. They said in nature the ppm of such macros is very minute and connot be detected by our normal hobbyist test kit. Regular water change for our tank should be sufficient to replenish such macros.

I am a bit confused as I thought it is good to maintain about 10 ppm of nitrates in the tank??? Nevertheless, they said it is a good idea to regularly check and monitor the nitrate and phosphate levels in our tank (I suppose to check for too high concentration then). Can anybody who has used Dennerle fertilisers before share with us your experience?[/quote:a6fc56925f]

I think they have very high PO4/NO3 in German tap water, perhaps 1-2ppm of PO4 and 20-40ppm of NO3 etc.

So doing a 50% weekly helps replenish NO3/PO4 if you live in Germany or perhaps some other over fertilized polluted ground water sources.

But most folks with less than .2ppm of PO4/ 10ppm of NO3 will not have enough to grow plants as well as they could with CO2.

And yes, you can certainly watch the PO4 and NO3 drop over a 24hr cycle.
That's just plain wrong.

I've consistenly over the last 8-9 years measured declines rates of PO4 at 0.2ppm to 0.5ppm/24 hours. NO3 at 2-4ppm/24 hrs with CO2/high light.

Just because the levels in nature are small, does not mean we should have the same thing. Our small, very densely planted tanks with no new sources of nutrients(unless we add them peroidically) are not the same as some huge water body or river.

It's advice like this that causes myths and problem by folks who are merely guessing nor have investigated what really causes algae and what rates the plant remove these nutrients from the tank.

I'm out in natural areas where these plants are, I do this for a living doing aquatic weed management.

No fertilizer, properly used, causes algae.
CO2 can cause algae if no used correctly.
So can light.

If you add PO4 to a heavily infested shallow tropical/subtropical lake, you end up with more plants, not algae. That's why we have such bad weed problems.

You'd figure a larger plant company would know more about growing plants and what causes algae than any of them do.

Anyone here can try adding KNO3 and KH2PO4 and see for yourself if their advice makes any sense or if you believe them.
I actually suggest you try it just to see that their advice is wrong.

Also, even if their tap waters have high PO4/NO4, they still need to add more K+. Most of your tap and most folks in the USA and many place have low NO3/PO4. They need to consider that among other things.

Lamott kits are good for measurement of NO3/PO4 and refills for the reagents are not bad cost wise.

If anyone in SG is interested, I can send you these two test kits for shipping and 80$USD for both or/in addition to some plant trades etc.

You can standarize the cheap test kits by making a standard solution and seeing how accurate the test kit is in the range you decide to make using your standards.

It takes a little work/math/chem to figure it out, but is not that tough.

http://www.aquatic-plants.org/articles.html

And the KNO3/Trace/KH2PO4 method is the cheapest thing out there and it works in SG, the USA, Germany, anywhere.

If you can get the CO2 right, then you can do this for the rest.
Have high NO3 in your tap water?
Add K2SO4
Have high PO4 in your tap water?
Don't add KH2PO4

Etc

Regards,
Tom Barr