eheim 2213 or 2215 depending on the scape
Double tap is just a valve for easy disconnect. Its look like below picture from google
Lily pipe is just for aesthetic purpose
Hi All,
I'm wondering which Eheim Classic Canister Filter should I be getting for my tank which is about 64.8 litres. It is a low tech lightly planted tank.
In addition, I have been reading through the forum and I saw some post mentioning about double taps. How does this work and how do I fix this to the filter?
Lastly, I saw that some of the tank using Canister filter is using clear colour piping with lily pipes. What is the uses of this?
eheim 2213 or 2215 depending on the scape
Double tap is just a valve for easy disconnect. Its look like below picture from google
Lily pipe is just for aesthetic purpose
not sure about the price. For the double tap, you need to connect in between inlet and outlet
I got a 2211 because my tank is rather empty because it's a shrimp tank. They prefer less current, in addition I also use a tetra sponge filter thus adding the housing of bb. I suggest that you invest in a 2213 or else like me you'll have to buy a sponge filter if you have a chiller.
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Am using the ecco pro 130, works well in my tank that's the same dimension as urs. Having a pair of discuss, few Cory and lampeye. Some plants on driftwoods
Hi All,
I'm wondering what is the difference between the Classic and Ecco Pro and which one would be a better recommendation?
I'm currently using ANS sands in the tank and I would like to know what are the plants which would be suitable for the low-tech tank as well.
Apologies for the amount of questions as I'm still starting out and learning
Thanks all for the help!
Hi.
First would be in-built priming function.
Ehiem ecco pro has priming function using the handle.
ehiem classic has no priming function.
Second would be shut-off taps.
Ecco pro has built in shut off taps.
Eheim classics do not have. Need to purchase the taps separately.
Thirdly would be filter media layup.
In the classic, the media and filter wool are contained in one basket.
The ecco pro medias and filter wools are in separate compartments.
From experience, I feel that the eheim classics are excellent filters with no frills. Lesser moving parts and lesser potential areas of leakage. Difficultly would be when you wash or clean the filters though.
The ecco pros are more energy friendly but you would be sacrificing flow rate. Handle may break.
Just my two cents. Feel free to add on!
Hi Ken,
Thanks for the advise.
Regarding the media and filter layout between Classic and Ecco Pro, does it means that Classic is better? In terms of cleaning the filters, which would be easier as well? The flow rate for Ecco Pro 200 is indicated as 600L/hr verse Classic 2213 which is 440L/hr. Also if I were to add in the price for purchasing the double taps, the prices seems to be quite close among the two. Hence, it's difficult to make a decision which would be a better purchase.
In terms of filter layout, the Ecco Pro is abit easier to clean and maintain as the coarse sponge pre-filter ring is at the top in a removable ring basket, so you could do a quick cleaning by simply removing the ring and rinse the debris off it, without taking out and disturbing the rest of the filter media at the bottom. In a Classic model, you'll need to remove everything to clean it.
In addition, the Ecco Pro filters have inlet/outlet ports that can swivel... this is very useful when positioning the filter and linking them up with other equipment as the hoses wouldn't get twisted and kinked as much.
I did the cost, feature and flow rate comparisons and ended up choosing the Ecco pro filters for all my 2ft tanks too. The Classic is cheaper initially on its own, but once the eheim double taps are added in, its cost becomes close to the equivalent Ecco Pro models.
Note that the cost different between the Ecco Pro 130, 200 and 300 are only around S$20-$30+ between each model, so you may consider just getting the 300 model for your 2ft tank. You'll get more filter volume and higher flow rate, which will be useful if linking up additional inline equipment in the future. The filter has inbuilt taps so you can adjust the flow rate anyways.
I guess the main reason why people go for the Classic models is because they prefer the simpler design (i've used the Classic series before too) and are used to the traditional "suck on hose" method of priming, and if they don't plan to get double taps, the overall cost does work out cheaper.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 20th May 2014 at 18:48.
Thanks Urban Aquaria for the advise.
Guess I will decide to go for Ecco Pro 300 since it comes with all the necessary stuff that is required to get it up and running as well as ease of maintenance. Will drop by C328 probably this weekend.
Since you've been a user on the Ecco Pro series, would you be able to advise on the media arrangement and what are the types of media that you're using as well?
I just follow the filter media arrangement as in the original recommendations on the box... the only difference is i don't use the included Eheim substrat Pro and Mech media, i use Seachem Matrix instead (mainly because i use the filter more for bio-filtration support). In addition, i also place a 100ml pack of Seachem Purigen at the top chamber just above the white filter wool layer, to help absorb excess dissolved organic compounds and give the water a final "polish".
Its a personal preference i guess, you can mix and match the media to customize how you want the filtration to perform.
Would ecco pro 300 overkill for tank size?
Well, the flow can be easily adjusted with the inbuilt taps so it can be set at a lower flow rate to suit different tank layouts. As the filter gradually clogs up and the flow naturally slows down over time, there'll still be the option of increasing the flow rate back higher. I find it better to over-filtrate, as it allows for more flexibility in usage and helps maintain a stable water quality for a longer period of time.
In addition, when inline equipment like Co2 reactors or chillers are used, the extra flow rate will compensate for the flow reduction from those equipment.
I use it at 100% flow rate in my planted 2ft tanks, because the higher flow is needed to circulate water through all the plant mass and reduce dead-spots anyways.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 21st May 2014 at 13:10.
Just to share, I'm using a Eheim 2217 (1050l/hr), with an inline CO2 reactor. Also added a 400l/hr powerhead at the diagonal opposite end for the same tank size.
Agree with UA circulation is important to reduce dead spots, which can lead to many other problems.
Do you put it in filter bag or just pull it on top of the filter wool layer?
Yeah, Purigen absorbs excess dissolved organic compounds and one of the effects is it helps to keep the water clearer. It also slows down the increase in TDS too, since it absorbs a portion of the accumulating dissolved solids.
The Purigen i use come in a pre-packed 100ml bag (the ones ordered from Amazon), i just put the bag on top of the filter wool layer. As the bag is made of fine mesh, it has to be the last layer before the water exits out of the filter, otherwise it'll clog up with debris very quickly.
Note that for the Purigen to work efficiently, the bag should have some loose space above and below it for the Purigen granules to move around, so that the water can flow through the bag and "tumble" the granules, which maximizes the effective surface area of the individual granules exposed to water.
Yeah I would like to purchase it as well
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