one more thing. how much anti chlorine do i put for this 30cm tank?
one more thing. how much anti chlorine do i put for this 30cm tank?
Since you have no substrate, just put the mesh and plants vertically directly into the side of the tank (without trapping any fishes) and then slide it horizontally into place... or just cut the mesh into smaller pieces and you'll have more flexibility to position them.
It depends on the brand of the de-chlorinator solution, you'll just have to follow the dosage instructions listed on the bottle.
The lfs only have bio stress guard brand
any bad experience with this brand?
And how long do I need to wait after adding anti chlorine before I can put in the fishes?
I haven't used that brand before but i guess it should work too, just make sure the description on the bottle states that it removes both chlorine and chloramine, and also detoxifies ammonia (which is a byproduct of chloramine removal).
The anti-chlorine solution will work within minutes, just stir the water to mix it properly then you can introduce in the fishes.
I got some fishes died again in my small tank, should I transfer the water to this bigger than ?
by doing so am I bringing the bacteria over to new tank?
Tank water doesn't contain much beneficial bacteria, the majority of beneficial bacteria live attached to surfaces in the tank instead. Transferring old tank water over to new tanks is mainly just to help smoothen the transition for the fishes (so that they don't get shocked with the sudden change of water conditions).
Note that in tank setups without substrate or filter, the beneficial bacteria can only live on the tank glass. Although that seems like a lot of space, it is actually a relatively small area for the bacteria to colonize (compared to the extremely high surface areas of substrate and bio-media in filters, in total those can often add up to the area of football fields!), so with limited area to colonize, their ability to handle and process the bio-load is also limited, hence the quicker accumulation of toxic levels in the tank.
Btw, if fishes are dying in the smaller tank, then it already indicates that the water there isn't healthy for them anymore... so it'll be better to just use fresh new de-chlorinated water in the new tank, let it settle for a few hours (stir the water periodically to manually aerate it) and then transfer the fishes over.
Your suggestion is to have a filter in the tank?
which brand and model to buy?
Is it true that we cannot fill the tank in full if we don't use air pump?
If possible, its always better to have a filter in the tank.
Most effective would be canister filters, they can contain alot of bio-media, but you need space to place them either beside or under your tank, and they cost more. For 30cm tanks, you can look at smaller canister filter models like the Eheim 2211 or Eden 501 or Shiruba XB-301.
If you don't have enough space or are on a budget, then a hang-on back filter would be the next best option, you can look at the small space-saving ones like the GEX Slim S or ISTA 180L Slim, or even compact ones like the Dophin H80 (this one runs very quietly).
An alternative would also be the sponge filter and air pump combo. GEX brand air pumps with adjustable flow rates are good, so are the Ocean Free ones too. You can get the generic sponge filters commonly sold at most LFS, they all mostly work the same, just pick the ones that can fit your tank dimensions. Only thing with sponge filter is they take up space inside the tank, and tend to create a bubbling noise and abit of splatter with all the bubbles popping at the water surface (though some people like that kind of background sound).
Haven't come across that theory before, where did you hear or read that from?
Usually people would want to have as much water as possible in the tank to attain more usable water volume for their fishes.
The only reason i can think of not to fill the tank full to the brim is to reduce the chances of fishes jumping out of open-topped tanks (especially if you are keeping "jumpy" fishes).
It seems like 2 of my female guppy have pinkish colour seen from outside of the grills
the male guppy does not have this symptom
could anything be going wrong?
Based on your tank setup, its likely due to ammonia poisoning... the fish's gills are probably getting inflamed by high accumulated ammonia levels. You should do water changes to reduce the ammonia levels, then stir the water periodically to create some aeration and hopefully make it easier for them to breathe from their damaged gills.
Here are some info for reference and suggested solutions:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonia_poisoning
http://www.firsttankguide.net/ammonia-stress.php
I read on that too and did water changeBut why does a newly setup tank have ammonia ?
You shifted the fishes already? I thought they were still in the previous tank.
Okay in that case, did you use de-chlorinator to treat the new water? If so, then does it work to neutralize ammonia that was produced during chloramine removal?
Since its a new tank with fresh new water and no substrate or items that can create ammonia, then it could also just be the fishes happen to still experience the effects from the previous tank in the new tank. Hopefully the cleaner water in the new tank will help them recover after a period of time.
Yes I used anti chlorine and the fishes are in new tank with new water
thinking of buying a pump with filter , do you think it helps?
anyway it's just 4 guppies in such a big tank
one thing is I don't see the grills being pinkish in old tank, it only happens after they move to new tank
Should I also reduce feeding from 2 to 1 time?
i feed them in small amount and they finish all every time
the tank is 30cm x 20cm x 20cm
one thing is I don't see the grills being pinkish in old tank, it only happens after they move to new tank
Its the total amount fed rather than the frequency that matters when it comes to overall waste production, so you can feed 2 or 1 time and its fine, just re-size the portions accordingly.
Your tank works out to around 12 liters, its still considered a small tank but 4 guppies could be okay for it based on a non-filtered setup (as long as you keep up with a regular routine of manual waste removal and water changes).
Btw, for non-filtered setups, you could also consider keeping a fancy betta instead (in case you are thinking of alternative fishes)... they breathe atmospheric air so oxygen levels in the water isn't as much of an issue for them.
Perhaps it could due to the new tank having no beneficial bacteria yet so the ammonia produced by the fishes might just be building up quicker than usual in the water... ammonia isn't just from their waste, its also from their constant respiration and pee which we cannot see. Ammonia accumulates very quickly in small tanks, especially when new.
Maybe it could also be the effects of the shift to a new tank environment too, may just be some initial stress. Monitor them over the next few days and see if the gill color changes. If they swim actively and eat enthusiastically, then it might not be a big issue after all.
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