Hi,
There's no specific nutrient for specific plant. Macro and micro all they need
Hi,
There's no specific nutrient for specific plant. Macro and micro all they need
I think all they need is a good substrate.. they are as easy as glosso, maybe easier.. CO2 for faster growth and macros for health..
If you are using nutrient-rich substrate like ADA Amazonia aquasoil, then most of the macro nutrients should be supplied by the soil for at least the first few months... so you may need to just dose micro/trace ferts and potassium to avoid deficiencies (ie. Tropica Premium, Seachem Flourish + Potassium, ADA Brightly Step 1 + Brightly K etc).
If you are using inert substrate or used soil with no more/very little nutrients, and have no or very little bio-load, then you could look at dosing both macro + micro ferts to supplement their nutrient needs, can consider the all-in-one fertilizers (ie. Tropica Specialized, LushGro Aqua, BorneoWild Lush, ADA Green Brightly Special Lights etc).
i think good circulation of nutrients/co2 via filtration system also quite important.
I am currently using shrimp safe fert where the HM grows very well(small clump b4 and grown quite wild now). At the back is the ludwiga repens(think so, got it for $1). It grows but has some deficiencies. I can either use the same soil or get new ones. If new purchase, i want to get the right soil so that the carlo gets whatever nutrients it requires + dosages if required.
No CO2 injection.
A nutrient-rich soil substrate can help to supply nutrients to the plant roots for a while (so you don't need to dose so many water column ferts for a period of time), ADA Amazonia aquasoil would be the best choice as its a tried and tested substrate used by many planted tank owners and aquascapers. The only thing is if you use it in your tank, due to the high levels of ammonia and nutrients it releases initially, it'll need some time to settle and for the cycle to stabilize before you can add your fishes or shrimps back in (you'll need to have keep the livestock in another temporary holding tank in the meantime).
Note that monte carlo can still grow with non nutrient-rich substrates and just utilize nutrients from the water column. Many people grow monte carlo tied to rocks and they still grow well, as they can adapt to take up nutrients from the water column too.
If you prefer to plant the monte carlo into the soil, another alternative to replacing your soil substrate, is to insert root tablets or sticks into the existing soil to supply nutrients directly to the plant roots (so that it reduces the issues of of excess nutrients flooding the water column and feeding algae instead). You can look at the Seachem, JBL or ADA range of root tabs/sticks.
thanks for the tips guys.
this is what i plan to clear:
close up
most likely I'll clear the plants, insert root sticks to soil, plant monte carlo and moss on wall. intro fish a month later.
I got my monte carlo from a bro in AQ. got a 1L pack of fert from C328 which was about $5.50. left it in my office. when i take a pic i'll post it here.
Sorry if i wasn't clear in the post, each of them are just suggested combos from different brands... not all used at the same time.
Maybe i seperate the combos and individual bottle names for better clarity:
Tropica Premium (all-in-one fert, contains both micro/trace and potassium)
or
Seachem Flourish (contains mostly micro/trace) and Seachem Potassium (contains potassium)
or
ADA Brightly Step 1 (contains mostly micro/trace) and ADA Brightly K (contains potassium)
You can pick different combos to try or even mix and match to see which work better for your setup... main objective is to provide the plants with sufficient micro/trace nutrients and potassium.
Tropica, seachem, ADA are 3 different brand, you decide which brand you prefer and use only that brand. Not using all 3. Tropica premium is 1 bottle. Seachem flourish is 1 bottle, seachem potassium another bottle, ADA brighty K another, ADA brighty step series another bottle
The fertilizers used for EI dosing method can comprise of any types, including the pre-mixed fertilizer products too.
We tend to see people using dry fertilizers because EI dosing usually requires higher dosages of fertilizers and for larger tanks, it can be alot more expensive to use pre-mixed fertilizers, so dry fertilizers would work out cheaper for such setups.
Here are some useful links on the concept and application of EI dosing:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...-for-Test-Kits
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...ss-techy-folks
This link to the EI dosing calculator would give you an idea of the amount of fertilizers to dose based on tank volume, and you can select the options for dry and pre-mixed fertilizers too:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...ing-calculator
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