BBA Infested Glosso lawn

[cs_sg]

Tank setup at:
http://www.freewebs.com/chyrls/plantedcurvedfront.htm


BBA left on infested leaves, will it spread?

To my horror, when I was trying to catch my shrimps out from my 15gal planted tank, I noticed that the SAE was missing!
I saw one dead body and thought its 'him'. It turned out to be my oto. The body of the SAE is nowhere to be found.

I have done a realllllllllllly massive trim on my BBA infested glosso lawn 2 days before.

Last night, I decided to leave the 11W PL light on while I do my work on the pc. This morning, I saw green water knocking on my door

I know I shouldn't be leaving the lights on and let the tank rest at night even if I didn't want to...but I thought its 'only' for one night. BIG mistake I know..

I looked closer at the glosso lawn now and it looks really disgusting with the BBA on some of the leaves.
I don't think I have much patience left to trim each and every leave one by one again.

Does it mean I have to rip off the whole glosso lawn OR
will it just go away after I get my water parameters and fert regime right?
I think the BBA started when my DIY CO2 exhausted while I was away from home for 3 days.

If BBA is left on the some of the leaves, even a tiny bit, will it spread again even if I try all corrective measures to keep it from coming back again?

Is Hydrogen Peroxide the only way to get rid of it totally? (Read from another forum)

I am not keen on dosing the tank with Hydrogen Peroxide, so I'd rather rip off the plants and eplant the foreground again. I think it is quicker than to trim off one leave at a time .....



Cheers

[cs_sg]

Sorry,
I forgot to mention that please do not suggest using shrimps or SAE to remove the BBA. I would like to know how you would get rid of them without them as they do not work all the time. I have tried putting 5 yamato shrimps, 15 malayan shrimps and 6 pencil fish and 2 SAE in and they did nothing for a week.

[budak]

If you search around, you will find that sustained and high CO2 levels (25-30 mg/l) is the cure for BBA. Can't help you on the DIY though.

[David]

I'd rather remove the glosso.......

[lorba]

there is no way you can stop BBA, they spread by spores.

The best way is to physically remove them, and if the glosso is infested, the easiest way to remove and plant in the new ones.

You can try putting in stems plants for the time being or have floating plants during the initial stage. This could prevent algae outbreak.

If not, tweak your light timing. Have full blast of light for 4hrs and the rest of the time, 50% light.

[David]

Lorba....he already has frogbits......;D

[cs_sg]

Thank you

Lorba, OK, I'll remove the glosso and replant them with new ones.
I have stem plants in that tank. Maybe get more bacopa and R.Indica.
Lighting is switched to 20W + 11W PL for this tank. The plants still pearls so I reckon its enough lighting though its just 2wpg

Budak, I asked the owner of the flat again and I can't switch to pressurised system

[PeterGwee]

Try non-CO2 type of tanks. No water changes (only change water when doing prunning or uprooting of plants) except for regular feeding of critters. Use SAEs and shrimps to keep the algae under control. (Algae crew can work effectively against algae in a non-CO2 tank due to its low grow rate vs a CO2 type of tank in which there is no chance.)

Want CO2 type of tank? Be prepare to work hard on the DIY brew week in week out. Construct the $2 type of CO2 reactor in which Tom Barr has posted. No danger of overdosing due to its design (burp hole). Great for DIY CO2 users.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[cs_sg]

[quote:f7a8af5ac9="PeterGwee"]Try non-CO2 type of tanks. No water changes (only change water when doing prunning or uprooting of plants) except for regular feeding of critters. Use SAEs and shrimps to keep the algae under control. (Algae crew can work effectively against algae in a non-CO2 tank due to its low grow rate vs a CO2 type of tank in which there is no chance.)

Want CO2 type of tank? Be prepare to work hard on the DIY brew week in week out. Construct the $2 type of CO2 reactor in which Tom Barr has posted. No danger of overdosing due to its design (burp hole). Great for DIY CO2 users.

Regards
Peter Gwee [/quote:f7a8af5ac9]

Many thanks for your replies.

A shrimp tank... I need a fan to lower the temperature for the moss, isn't it? The sound of the fan is annoying... can't afford a chiller either.

I want a CO2 induced tank for quick growth. I don't mind doing the mix every week. Its part of the 'fun' of tank maintenance.
Another hobbyist has the 'jello-mix' CO2 mixture which she claims to be a more stable mixture and last longer. I'll try that as well and update here.

I'm still trying to figure out how to DIY that reactor. I've read that article many times and even with juggler's kind help of showing his own DIY one, I'm still too dumb to figure it out.

I'm not technically inclined...but I'll try...

[Simon]

cut away infect areas

[PeterGwee]

You can do a search on the web and model the DIY reactor after the plantguild vortex reactor except that the reaction chamber is longer and the bottom is "open" without the sponge (open bottom relieves the pressure in the reaction chamber and hence great for DIY CO2 users and faster flowrate.).

Regards
Peter Gwee

[Plantbrain]

I'll post my various DIY projects on the BarrRport including this one.
Photo's step by step etc.

Regards,
Tom Barr

[cs_sg]

[quote:4bf41177a5="Plantbrain"]I'll post my various DIY projects on the BarrRport including this one.
Photo's step by step etc.

Regards,
Tom Barr[/quote:4bf41177a5]

Thanks for that in advance, Tom.

I've got 5 x1.5ltres of yeast mixture running now to increase the CO2 output due to the CO2 loss.