Those light models in your picture are the older lower powered versions... you should look for these newer higher powered versions in LFS:Originally Posted by Dscheng
The smaller clip-on models are usually around S$20+ (can be slightly more or less)... check at Seaview as they have additional store-wide 15% discount on aquarium equipment.
Is it suitable for low lighting plant?Those light models in your picture are the older lower powered versions... you should look for these newer higher powered versions in LFS:
The smaller clip-on models are usually around S$20+ (can be slightly more or less)... check at Seaview as they have additional store-wide 15% discount on aquarium equipment.
Yes, those newer LED light models would be suitable for low to medium light plants.
I'm currently using the same clip-on ones for my quarantine/holding tanks (which contain easy plants like anubias, java ferns, mosses etc) and the plants are growing well.
OK thanks. Just wondering the V-LED-17 model, how many LED.
I'm not using that particular model, but i'd guess that smallest clip-on set should be using 4 or 5 x 0.5W LEDs. You'll have to check the box specs to confirm.
Should be brighter than my current one right..
Should be... its worth a try. You could also just ask the LFS to let you test it out before purchasing.
Places like Seaview have some of those lights being used on their demo nano tanks and they also do a light test before attaching the warranty sticker so you can check the brightness.
Wow really much brighter ! Got it only SGD$17.00. Tks for the recommendation !
Going to remove the behind 'Banana leaf' (not sure is the correct word lol). Look too cluttered. Do you think my soil is too much?Looks good!
Need to rearrange again.
So i need to withdraw the water out into a pail then redo the scaping or maybe soil. Then can i use back the water?
My 2nd attempt for this nano tank. Now look better, added some fish. They had been surviving for 2 night already, seem like feeding is good.
2 tiger barb, 1 green tiger barb, 1 panda cory and 2 Tetra.
Plan to add in Moss ball or something simliar.
Sticky and Nutty in a Plastic Packet
The tetras and cory might not do well with the Tiger Barbs. The Tiger barbs might also fight amongst themselves. Just keep an eye out for it.
Maybe add some bushy or leafy stem plants for the tetras to hide.
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This morning i saw one tetra die.. Not sure what happen.. maybe kena attack by the barbs.
It could also be from the ammonia levels in the tank spiking up, likely due to the reduction in plant mass and increase in livestock quantity. Small tanks are highly susceptible to parameter fluctuations so they can't reliably support as many fishes.
Test kits can help to track the water parameters, so it'll be helpful if you can get them.
To maintain healthy water conditions, it'll be good if you can increase plant density (add fast growing plants to soak up the excess ammonia and nitrates), reduce the number of fishes, feed less and do more frequent water changes.
As for water change.. i do like 20 to 30% change is enough right? Usually i keep the new water overnight then add in anti cholorine. Should be ok right.
The test kit not cheap wor.. At least like 25 bucks.
Well, it depends on the parameters in the tank... but without test kits its unknown, so it'll just be based on guessing.
Do note that a 30% water change only remove 30% of ammonia... so 70% of it is still in the tank. For example, if ammonia is at 2ppm, and you do a 30% water change, it drops to 1.4ppm, but its still toxic.
To have an effect in reducing toxic parameters, you'll need to do more frequent water changes, like 30% every day for 4-5 days (smaller but more frequent water changes are better for livestock).
You could also do much larger 50%-80% water changes too (which will reduce toxic parameters much faster), but you have to check if the livestock in the tank are hardy enough to withstand the sudden changes in water parameters.
If you are using good quality de-chloinator (ie. Seachem Prime), then its acually not necessary to let the water sit overnight, the de-chlorinator will remove the chlorine and chloramine within seconds. Just stir the water to mix it well before water change.
The good quality reagent based test kits usually cost around $40-$50+ for sets which test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates (ie. API Freshwater Master Test Kit).
Try not to get the cheaper test strip ones, as they tend to be less accurate and display wider variations in parameter measurements.
I guess it depends on how you want to manage the tank conditions. Without test kits, you'll just have to continue guessing and do the "traditional" school kid method of testing... if fishes die, buy some more, if those die, keep buying even more, until they stop dying.
Ok thanks for the advice. I was reading your blog. Nice setup la. I was planning for bigger tank.. maybe 2 or 2.5FT. Haha, just started this hobbies recently. You can help ppl setup up planted tank one bo? Haha..Well, it depends on the parameters in the tank... but without test kits its unknown, so it'll just be based on guessing.
Do note that a 30% water change only remove 30% of ammonia... so 70% of it is still in the tank. For example, if ammonia is at 2ppm, and you do a 30% water change, it drops to 1.4ppm, but its still toxic.
To have an effect in reducing toxic parameters, you'll need to do more frequent water changes, like 30% every day for 4-5 days (smaller but more frequent water changes are better for livestock).
You could also do much larger 50%-80% water changes too (which will reduce toxic parameters much faster), but you have to check if the livestock in the tank are hardy enough to withstand the sudden changes in water parameters.
If you are using good quality de-chloinator (ie. Seachem Prime), then its acually not necessary to let the water sit overnight, the de-chlorinator will remove the chlorine and chloramine within seconds. Just stir the water to mix it well before water change.
The good quality reagent based test kits usually cost around $40-$50+ for sets which test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates (ie. API Freshwater Master Test Kit).
Try not to get the cheaper test strip ones, as they tend to be less accurate and display wider variations in parameter measurements.
I guess it depends on how you want to manage the tank conditions. Without test kits, you'll just have to continue guessing and do the "traditional" school kid method of testing... if fishes die, buy some more, if those die, keep buying even more, until they stop dying.
Yeah, moving to a 2ft or larger tank will definitely make it easier to maintain stable parameters... and you can keep more fishes too.
Not sure how much i can help in setting up new tanks though, nowadays even my own tanks i also no time/too lazy to maintain.
Haha, understand. You heard of Boyu brand fish tank? Look cool to me.Yeah, moving to a 2ft or larger tank will definitely make it easier to maintain stable parameters... and you can keep more fishes too.
Not sure how much i can help in setting up new tanks though, nowadays even my own tanks i also no time/too lazy to maintain.
http://www.eastoceansg.com/boyu-ea80...ml-p-1102.html
BOYU-EA80ESET.jpg
I guess it just depends on your preference, though thats more of an older style aquarium tank and cabinet design.
Just have to note that for our local climate, tanks with hoods tend to heat up alot due to the trapped heat from the lights and lack of circulation, so either you have to remove the cover or DIY install fans to vent out heat and create circulation.
In addition, if you are keen on aquascaping, its better to look at tanks with straight edges, instead of rounded edges, mainly because rounded edges warp the view when you look at them (and take photos) from certain angles.
Here is an example of the more "modern" ADA-style aquascaped tank and cabinet design:
You can actually get a custom ADA-style cabinet and ready-made high-clarity 2ft tank from East Ocean for around the same cost (or even less) as the equivalent Boyu brand tank and cabinet.
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