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Thread: Q : NO3

  1. #1
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    Q : NO3

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    Although it is more related to equipment and accessaries, but some topics regards to NO3 also......

    Anyone has any idea that biohome or bioring can last ? Should it be changed after some time ? If so , how to tell it is time to change ?

    Reason was , I dropped by bioblast on sat to top up my CO2, and asked Tan on his DIY carnister filter. He mentioned he used only sponge for the 6.5' tank, and said that the bioring may need to change after sometime as it emits too much NO3. I totally confused here , either he does not understand or two different schools of thought. The sponge, the bioring/biohome do not have any chemical effect, except they will house the beneficial bacteria to breakdown the ammonia->nitrite->nitrate. It is good thing right ? if the carnister produce a lot of NO3, it is doing its jobs. What is causing too much ammonia in the first place is the other matter. The more and faster breakdown of ammonia into NO3 , the better the filter media condition of the carnister , am I correct ?

    He also mentioned best to keep in low NO3, that means, and low dosage of NO3. He demostrated with a multi-test paper strip, and true enough the NO3 is almost near 0 . Totally confused !!! Look at his tank water condition, the plants growth is crystal clear and bubbling like mad . Further more he is using 2 x 150w MH with he tank facing the main road with bright sunny sun outside. Hardly any algae . Of course, he is using a chiller . He is doing water change every 2 days of 20%, dose every day few drops of fertiliser and that's it !!

    Also asked about his CO2 injection. He is using the bioblast internal reactor. Look like a honeycomb inside where CO2 is injected from the top, with a small area on top for mixing. How's this compare with the external reactor like the NA version , anyone has the experience on these two for comparison ?

    Anyone has any comment on this ??

  2. #2
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    [quote:5b851afb1f="neon"]Although it is more related to equipment and accessaries, but some topics regards to NO3 also......

    Anyone has any idea that biohome or bioring can last ? Should it be changed after some time ? If so , how to tell it is time to change ?[/quote:5b851afb1f]

    Don't bother..unless it really clogs up and slows filter flowrate way down.

    [quote:5b851afb1f="neon"]Reason was , I dropped by bioblast on sat to top up my CO2, and asked Tan on his DIY carnister filter. He mentioned he used only sponge for the 6.5' tank, and said that the bioring may need to change after sometime as it emits too much NO3. I totally confused here , either he does not understand or two different schools of thought. The sponge, the bioring/biohome do not have any chemical effect, except they will house the beneficial bacteria to breakdown the ammonia->nitrite->nitrate. It is good thing right ? if the carnister produce a lot of NO3, it is doing its jobs. What is causing too much ammonia in the first place is the other matter. The more and faster breakdown of ammonia into NO3 , the better the filter media condition of the carnister , am I correct ? [/quote:5b851afb1f]

    Anything that is porous will house bacteria..plants surface, substrate and many things in a tank can do that as well.
    The size of the bacteria colony determines the amount of time needed to convert ammonia into NO3. The larger the colony (wet/dry units do that very well due to its large bacteria colony housing ability). Do note that the more bacteria, the more O2 demand in the system.
    A filter does not play a major part in a well running planted tank except for circulation and backup in case your plants stop growing for some reason.

    [quote:5b851afb1f="neon"]He also mentioned best to keep in low NO3, that means, and low dosage of NO3. He demostrated with a multi-test paper strip, and true enough the NO3 is almost near 0 . Totally confused !!! Look at his tank water condition, the plants growth is crystal clear and bubbling like mad . Further more he is using 2 x 150w MH with he tank facing the main road with bright sunny sun outside. Hardly any algae . Of course, he is using a chiller . He is doing water change every 2 days of 20%, dose every day few drops of fertiliser and that's it !![/quote:5b851afb1f]

    What kind of test kit is he using? Most NO3 stinks unless he is using those lab grade stuff from LaMotte or Hach. He does water changes every 2 days...unless the water is RO quality, expect some NO3 to be in there. For what I know, the tank houses slow growing plants like moss and Monosolenium tenerum which does not need that much NO3 for growth.

    [quote:5b851afb1f="neon"]Also asked about his CO2 injection. He is using the bioblast internal reactor. Look like a honeycomb inside where CO2 is injected from the top, with a small area on top for mixing. How's this compare with the external reactor like the NA version , anyone has the experience on these two for comparison ? [/quote:5b851afb1f]

    Depends on the size of the tank you are going to inject the CO2. The internal reactor should be able to keep up with small tanks but might be found wanting in a large tank with high CO2 demand or loss.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee

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    Thanks peter.

    In fact, I am using the NA version of reactor, and I have upgraded my 2260 eheim pump to 1262 pump. This is to increase the flow rate and push and spin the water hard & fast inside the reactor. I still see some bubbles coming out from the water outlet.

    Anyway, no sure of any sway current, during the lighting period, I tested many corner of my tank , as well as using a big scoop to scoop up some tank water (before that I make sure I stir the scoop under the water). All the PH reading are consistent of 6.4 .

    My tank is infected with BBA all over the crypt, gravel (front part), java fern , java fern windelov, various big echidonorus plant, drift wood. Sucked up some of infected gravel, cut a lot of infected leaves, h202 with needle injection on the gravel, wood, some plants. Done 50% water change after that. Reduced my 3 x 150W MH to 2 x 150W MH. dKH is around 3-4. Dosage of NO3 3 times (10ppm), PO4 3 times (1ppm), K 3 times (7.5ppm) , Mg 3 times (3.2ppm), Rexon (Fe) 3 times (0.5ppm). Water change 50% weekly.

    Any clue on how to contain further BBA outbreak ? What is wrong with my tank ?

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    [quote:66919428e2="neon"]In fact, I am using the NA version of reactor, and I have upgraded my 2260 eheim pump to 1262 pump. This is to increase the flow rate and push and spin the water hard & fast inside the reactor. I still see some bubbles coming out from the water outlet.[/quote:66919428e2]

    The flow rate is too great...slow it down.

    [quote:66919428e2="neon"]Anyway, no sure of any sway current, during the lighting period, I tested many corner of my tank , as well as using a big scoop to scoop up some tank water (before that I make sure I stir the scoop under the water). All the PH reading are consistent of 6.4 .

    My tank is infected with BBA all over the crypt, gravel (front part), java fern , java fern windelov, various big echidonorus plant, drift wood. Sucked up some of infected gravel, cut a lot of infected leaves, h202 with needle injection on the gravel, wood, some plants. Done 50% water change after that. Reduced my 3 x 150W MH to 2 x 150W MH. dKH is around 3-4. Dosage of NO3 3 times (10ppm), PO4 3 times (1ppm), K 3 times (7.5ppm) , Mg 3 times (3.2ppm), Rexon (Fe) 3 times (0.5ppm). Water change 50% weekly.

    Any clue on how to contain further BBA outbreak ? What is wrong with my tank ?[/quote:66919428e2]

    Try to increase the sample volume for the KH to increase its accuracy. Go back and recheck the CO2 level again. Is it really 30ppm or so? Add 5-10ppm of error in and where is the CO2 level now? Are your plants pearling?

    Regards
    Peter Gwee

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    Re:

    [quote:0f11bdc4d5="PeterGwee"][quote:0f11bdc4d5="neon"]In fact, I am using the NA version of reactor, and I have upgraded my 2260 eheim pump to 1262 pump. This is to increase the flow rate and push and spin the water hard & fast inside the reactor. I still see some bubbles coming out from the water outlet.[/quote:0f11bdc4d5]

    The flow rate is too great...slow it down.

    [quote:0f11bdc4d5="neon"]Anyway, no sure of any sway current, during the lighting period, I tested many corner of my tank , as well as using a big scoop to scoop up some tank water (before that I make sure I stir the scoop under the water). All the PH reading are consistent of 6.4 .

    My tank is infected with BBA all over the crypt, gravel (front part), java fern , java fern windelov, various big echidonorus plant, drift wood. Sucked up some of infected gravel, cut a lot of infected leaves, h202 with needle injection on the gravel, wood, some plants. Done 50% water change after that. Reduced my 3 x 150W MH to 2 x 150W MH. dKH is around 3-4. Dosage of NO3 3 times (10ppm), PO4 3 times (1ppm), K 3 times (7.5ppm) , Mg 3 times (3.2ppm), Rexon (Fe) 3 times (0.5ppm). Water change 50% weekly.

    Any clue on how to contain further BBA outbreak ? What is wrong with my tank ?[/quote:0f11bdc4d5]

    Try to increase the sample volume for the KH to increase its accuracy. Go back and recheck the CO2 level again. Is it really 30ppm or so? Add 5-10ppm of error in and where is the CO2 level now? Are your plants pearling?

    Regards
    Peter Gwee [/quote:0f11bdc4d5]

    Slow down the flow rate ? I intend use the higher flow rate to better circulate the water in the tank. I am also using another power head to push the water movement. I can water moving on top , but no areation , so minimum CO2 lossed , I think.

    Tried double the sample for KH, from 5ml to 10ml, and turned light yellow on the 4 drops => 4/2=2 dKH (as the sample vol increase by double). I think this drop only happens last Sunday as I removed the coral sand from the carnister, and dropped some CaCl, but no help. Put back the coral sand again, and wait til tomorrow to test.

    Shall I reduce my lighting period from 10hr to 5 hr ? Is it a good idea to stress the BBA by this method ? Will be ok for the plants ? I have also reduced from 3 x 150w MH to 2 x 150w MH 4 weeks ago since the BBA outbreak,

    Plant which bubbles is only barteri nana, but from its stem where the leaves were cut.

    Should I dose NO3 as regular (3 times) , or I solve the CO2 issue first ? Do you still think my CO2 is the problem ?

    Cheers

  6. #6
    what i know, if NO3 is less then 50ppm, will be ok.

    I tested on tap water, the no3 = 0 to 4 ( yellow in chart)
    i can't tell is it 0 or 4 because is colour chart.

    My tank always got algue problem ( search my post) i really damm angry,
    i remove and restart more then 4 times. spend more then $300 just on plant. ( change plant, change different kind of sand and other thing)

    3 weeks ago, i just found that NO3 is very important. Until now my tank is abt 20 PPM to 39 PPM. there no algue but still very very danger. i don't think i really can make it to 0 for my big tank.

    Until now , how to reduce No3? i still not sure. What i know is change water. Recently a shop tell me use sera nitrivec to reduce no3. but before i pour into tank. i tested on it by take 20ml of tank water to test tube and add nitrivec. at the end, 40ppm. make it worst.

    HOW HOW HOW, how to reduce NO3?????? change water????
    or http://www.aquaripure.com/
    using this denitrator ????????

  7. #7
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    ( this is off-topic btw )

    Nitrates shouldn't bother you if you have a planted tank. Otherwise... change your water more frequently.

  8. #8
    i know that changing water is one way of reduce NO3
    what else?
    i just found a website, does anyone using this filter???

    Clearmec PLUS by JBL

    http://www.jbl.de/uk/aqua/uk_62395.html

  9. #9
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    Re:

    Peter,

    Put back my coral sand bag into the carnister. Today, the larger sample volume still show 2dKH. Shall wait for one more day if it raise up.

    Any more suggestion ?

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