Advertisements
Aquatic Avenue Banner Tropica Shop Banner Fishy Business Banner
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 54

Thread: DIY-ing a external reactor

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ang Mo Kio
    Posts
    4,531
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    Images
    81
    Country
    Singapore
    Advertisements
    Fresh n Marine aQuarium Banner

    Advertise here

    Advertise here
    Yeap, the PVC glue is the red/orange tin. I'm not sure of the difference though, perhaps just:

    PVC glue - for PVC only, permanent bond.
    Epoxy- General purpose, glues everything permanent.
    Silicon- Generally for sealing out water, not used as a adhesive.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    75
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    No, the design is not flawed!
    I have came across a similarly built sucessful reactor on the net, and prolly u did ur reseach 2.
    U just have to plug your reactor to the output side, that will solve the dirtiness problem.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ang Mo Kio
    Posts
    4,531
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    Images
    81
    Country
    Singapore
    But then how does the C02 get dissolved? At the output side both the water and bubbles are moving the same way: up. ( like the way you mentioned in your post )

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    4,088
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by schema
    No, the design is not flawed!
    I have came across a similarly built sucessful reactor on the net, and prolly u did ur reseach 2.
    U just have to plug your reactor to the output side, that will solve the dirtiness problem.
    Not a good move to place it on the output side in my opinion. First, you would have to route the outflow of the filter to the top of the reactor (lose flow to fight against some back-pressure from the head.) and then you lose further flow due to turbulence in the reactor (the longer the tube, the worst it gets.). In the end, you get a very non-responsive reactor (most external reactors are very efficient but response time is the key to a nice planted tank with loads of light.) due to low flow and poor circulation of the tank. Not a good idea...try a dedicated powerhead for such important devices.

    Regards
    Peter Gwee

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    75
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Sorry for the confusion........

    tank------canister------reactor -----tank

    tats wat I mean, so clean filtered water enters reactor, so can keep maintenence to the min.

    But then how does the C02 get dissolved?
    Mine CO2 was introduced at the top(elbow) of the reactor, water turbulence is greatest there, so max dissolving should happen there!

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    singapore
    Posts
    586
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Country
    Singapore
    Hi,

    Done a similar design as |squee|, except :

    1) choose 50mm pvc pipe and longer (more bioballs)
    2) 2 ends with screw cap with rubber O ring (like the HDB PVC cap) which can be opened for maintenance.
    3) 2 end fitted with brass hose joints to fit 16mm hose
    4) fitted the CO2 inlet slightly below the top cap
    5) fitting :

    2260 canister (1262pump) --> top of CO2 reactor--> UV light (on when necessary) --> chiller --> tank --> two rainbars at the bottom of the tank blowing toward the front

    Result :
    1) before WC, PH 6.3-6.4
    2) after WC (late night), run UV overnight
    3) dose nutrient in the morning
    4) PH 6.6-6.7
    5) start CO2 2 hrs before
    6) lighting period PH 6.5-6.6
    7) at the end of lighting period 6.4-6.5

    Can I consider this effective ?

    I may try another 80% water change this coming Sat and measure the PH before and after .

    Cheers

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    4,088
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by neon
    Hi,

    Done a similar design as |squee|, except :

    1) choose 50mm pvc pipe and longer (more bioballs)
    2) 2 ends with screw cap with rubber O ring (like the HDB PVC cap) which can be opened for maintenance.
    3) 2 end fitted with brass hose joints to fit 16mm hose
    4) fitted the CO2 inlet slightly below the top cap
    5) fitting :

    2260 canister (1262pump) --> top of CO2 reactor--> UV light (on when necessary) --> chiller --> tank --> two rainbars at the bottom of the tank blowing toward the front

    Result :
    1) before WC, PH 6.3-6.4
    2) after WC (late night), run UV overnight
    3) dose nutrient in the morning
    4) PH 6.6-6.7
    5) start CO2 2 hrs before
    6) lighting period PH 6.5-6.6
    7) at the end of lighting period 6.4-6.5

    Can I consider this effective ?

    I may try another 80% water change this coming Sat and measure the PH before and after .

    Cheers
    Your CO2 level should be good within an hour or so from ambient levels if the system is responsive enough. The "key" to good responsive time is to keep the water flow rate as high as possible without exceeding the chamber limits (no premature CO2 exit). You have a very long return line from pipings to the UV and chiller which will definitely slow flow down and that there is no addition mixing within the tank from the filter outlet as it is use to drive the reactor. Think about it...you have a large tank as well...mixing within the tank becomes more critical.

    Do the large water change, start the CO2 system with the lights "on" and test the CO2 level (pH/KH) after an hour. Is it good?

    Regards
    Peter Gwee
    Last edited by PeterGwee; 28th Mar 2005 at 23:10.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    singapore
    Posts
    586
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by PeterGwee
    Your CO2 level should be good within an hour or so from ambient levels if the system is responsive enough. The "key" to good responsive time is to keep the water flow rate as high as possible without exceeding the chamber limits (no premature CO2 exit). You have a very long return line from pipings to the UV and chiller which will definitely slow flow down and that there is no addition mixing within the tank from the filter outlet as it is use to drive the reactor. Think about it...you have a large tank as well...mixing within the tank becomes more critical.

    Do the large water change, start the CO2 system with the lights "on" and test the CO2 level (pH/KH) after an hour. Is it good?

    Regards
    Peter Gwee
    Drained 80% water out this morning and mopped clean the green spot on glass with kitchen tissue towel . Forgot to test the PH this morning , last night after light off was PH 6.3-6.4, dKH 5.

    CO2 injection (2.5-3 bubbles / second) started at 11am (two hrs before light on). After came home at 12:30 (after 1.5 hrs later) , lighting was not turn on yet. Tested the PH 6.3-6.4, dKH 3. Added 4 tablespoon of baking soda , now dKH 4.5 .

    PH 6.2-6.3 after light off in the night at 11pm.

    Previously if 80% WC, the PH would be around 6.7-6.8 and dKH 2-3. With the NA external reactor, the response time will be very long. After 2 days then dropped from 6.7-6.8 to 6.1-6.2.

    Can I claim that this DIY reactor is working good ?

    My line up for the water flow as follow :

    1) 2262 Eheim carnister (1262 pump)
    2) DIY reactor (1m long, 50mm PVC, lots of big size bioballs from top to bottom, brass host connector fits 16mm hose), CO2 inject close to the top of the reactor, 3 inch below the top)
    3) UV light (turn on when needed)
    4) 1 HP chiller
    5) return to tank PVC piping and split two directions upward (left & right)
    6) each side attach to one long rainbar (total two) at the bottom

    Cheers

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Yew Tee
    Posts
    377
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Read through the posts and after some thought, I got confused with the placement of the reactor, ie at the filter outlet or inlet.

    Although I am not good at fluid dynamics, but I feel that I can assume that the whole tank system with the filter is actually a close loop system. So regardless of the placement of the reactor, the net resistance will still be the same.

    Can anyone who had tried out different placements of the reactor comment if the above is true? Thanks!

    Cheers!

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    singapore
    Posts
    586
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by kadios
    Read through the posts and after some thought, I got confused with the placement of the reactor, ie at the filter outlet or inlet.

    Although I am not good at fluid dynamics, but I feel that I can assume that the whole tank system with the filter is actually a close loop system. So regardless of the placement of the reactor, the net resistance will still be the same.

    Can anyone who had tried out different placements of the reactor comment if the above is true? Thanks!

    Cheers!
    From my findings after a few alteration and experiment :
    1) place the reactor after the pump or filter :
    - cleaner , lesser choke of debris
    - will not burb your filter
    2) place the reactor as far as possible and let the co2 has longer distance and time to react with the water .

    Case 1 : External NA Reactor
    ----------------------------
    1) looks impressive
    ==> effectiveness is questionable as BBA is rampant
    ==> lots of tidy bubbles shoot out from the outlet in the tank

    Case 2 : External Venturi (1M long) with lots of bioballs
    -----------------------------------------------------------
    1) line up , 2262-> reactor-> UV->chiller-> tank's rainbars left and right
    2) No matter how much of CO2 I crank up into the reactor, I can hardly see any trace of CO2 bubbles. Quite strange !!
    3) PH can drop very fast if crank up CO2 from 6.6 to 6.0 in around 2 hrs.

    ==> Conclusion whether it is effective, I still some doubt. Why ? I still see BBA, BGA . I am dosing the EI method. Cranking high CO2 bubbling rate. If measure PH/KH , co2 easily around 70-80ppm. PH could be affected by DW.
    ==> plant bubbling ? Not a lot !

    Case 3 : other test using Tom Barr's internal venturi reactor
    ------------------------------------------------
    1) did a similar setup like Tom design
    ==> I find a lot of tidy bubbles come out from the container and raise up to the tank top.
    2) modify the design by placing a CO2 diffuser
    ==> worse. Lots of bubbles pushed out by the force of the water from the power head.

    Case 4 : New test using external venturi design (case 2) and NA reactor
    -------------------------------------------------------------
    1) lineup : eheim 1260 pump -> venturi (1m long) (see case 2) -> NA reactor
    2) CO2 tank with solenoid + 3 ways splitter : 1 connect to venturi only

    ==> Crank up CO2 into Venturi reactor. No visible CO2 bubbles come out. Still don't trust it yet.
    ==> plants are bubbling , but not a lot !

    Case 5 : New test using external venturi design (case 2) and NA reactor
    -------------------------------------------------------------
    1) lineup : eheim 1260 pump -> venturi (1m long) (see case 2) -> NA reactor
    2) CO2 tank with solenoid + 3 ways splitter : 1 connect to venturi , 1 connect to NA reactor.

    ==> Crank up CO2 into Venturi reactor. No visible CO2 bubbles come out. Still don't trust it.
    ==> put CO2 (1 bubble/s) into NA reactor
    ==> plants are bubbling mad
    ==> can see very tidy tidy CO2 shoot out . Some may attach to the plants.
    ==> So, is it with very very tidy CO2 and able to attach to plants , make them happy ??
    ==> Let wait for a few weeks if the BBA is in control.

    Cheers

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Singapore, Singapore, Singapore
    Posts
    19
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    3
    Country
    Singapore
    can i use this design if i'm using a DIY co2 set. will the water backfire into my co2 bottle?

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    singapore
    Posts
    586
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Country
    Singapore
    To prevent back pressure from the filter/reactor, you should always use checkvalve.

    For DIY CO2, it would not have enough pressure to push. Even you make few DIY bottle, after a while, the pressure will not be strong enough.

    CO2 and manual regulator is not expensive . If you can afford, get a 5L tank where refill for 2L,3L and 5L are marginal difference, wherelse reducing the frequency of refillng is a big saving of effort and less disruption. Further more, in future you can get a 3 ways CO2 splitter for $30-40 for your various tanks if needed.

    So think carefully, should you get a small CO2 first or straight 5L one.

    Cheers

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    420
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    1
    Country
    Singapore
    Thought of getting the NA external reactor. I am currently using the UP internal reactor with those 7 bioballs rotating type. I have purchased long ago and I think it is a liitle urgly as it affect the viewing pleasure since it is in the tank. Upgrade to the NA external reactor sure improve viewing pleasure but wondering will it improve the CO2 dissolve performance? Seem like from Neon comment it is not very effective. Please advise. Thanks.

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Tam Pines
    Posts
    131
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    2
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by AnA
    Thought of getting the NA external reactor. I am currently using the UP internal reactor with those 7 bioballs rotating type. I have purchased long ago and I think it is a liitle urgly as it affect the viewing pleasure since it is in the tank. Upgrade to the NA external reactor sure improve viewing pleasure but wondering will it improve the CO2 dissolve performance? Seem like from Neon comment it is not very effective. Please advise. Thanks.
    I'm currently using the NA version. Performance wise...so..so.. I just got this crazy idea and yet to be implemented. I manage to get a small power head. I'm now thinking of putting this power head inside this reactor to increase the turbulance. Currently, I'm turning on full blast for my filter 2026 to churn the water to mix with the CO2. But I'm thinking hard now, should I go ahead and make a small hole to the clear acrylic cover for the wire to go through. Will it crack?

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    4,126
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    To better spread the mixed water and co2 into the tank, the use of a rainbar placed vertically in the tank is better than a point source output. The rainbar must be submerged underwater.

    Neon, in my personal experience, if you see bubbles coming out from NA external reactor, it could be that there is an air leakage in 1 of the tube connection. Also, the glass portion must be on top and not touching the floor.

    Hope this helps!
    If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
    Don't walk behind me as I might not lead, don't walk in front of me as I might not follow. Walk beside me, as my friend.
    Mohamad Rohaizal is my name. If it's too hard, use BFG. I don't mind.

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    225
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    4
    Country
    Singapore
    I'm using the NA external reactor which was given to me by the person who sold me the whole CO2 set.

    He has modified it to include a CO2 airstone inside and from his experience he told me don't invert the NA external reactor due to his modification.

    Anyway those NA external reactor can be get cheaply from hardware shop.

    My 100L tank setup is as follow :

    IOS filter ---> Eheim 1260 pump (1200l/hr) ---> NA external reactor ---> Chiller ---> rainbar in tank.

    When i pump 1bps, i see CO2 from the airstone inside the ext reactor, i dont see much CO2 bubble from my rainbar. Even have but very very small CO2 bubble.

    When i pump 3bps, i see big and small CO2 bubble from the rainbar. More small one. I see pearling from my plants.

    I also added in some bio ring into my external reactor.

    How do we measure or guadge efficiency of reactor ??? I have no idea.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    61
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    2
    Country
    Singapore
    may i know how much is the NA CO2 reactor? i wanna DIY but I scared cock up man!

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    61
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    2
    Country
    Singapore
    now i got another crazy idea. do you guys think it is possible to convert an internal reactor to an external one? i can just use silicon and seal the openings rite?

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    4,126
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Someone did that already. It leaked if I'm not wrong. He uses white plumbing tape. Do a search.
    If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
    Don't walk behind me as I might not lead, don't walk in front of me as I might not follow. Walk beside me, as my friend.
    Mohamad Rohaizal is my name. If it's too hard, use BFG. I don't mind.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ang Mo Kio
    Posts
    4,531
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)
    Images
    81
    Country
    Singapore
    Too risky imho. Water leaking is one of the five worst nightmares of a planted/fish tank hobbyist.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •