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Mostly the shipping cost is quite high, similar like aquarium fertilizer e-shop, should purchase in group, and split the cost, it helps.
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$27. I also ordered other items since paying for the shipmentOriginally Posted by AQMS
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Mostly the shipping cost is quite high, similar like aquarium fertilizer e-shop, should purchase in group, and split the cost, it helps.
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Nice!!
Cheaper than my usual go to place... will make a switch ,thanks for the site.
milk_vanilla, great.. you ordering anything soon. we can pool the order together to save the shipping cost.
I already have stock until next year Aug...
Actually the shipping cost more or less the same. I usually shop for 2kg ++ that cost about $52 in shipping.
That can last for 1 year plus...
Yes this website is cheaper, but admin responding time may be a little slow. But most imptly, shipment does arrive at a reasonable time. They use USPS.
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Hi all, so for 2 x 1.5 x 1ft tank.. what is the dosage for micro and macro. need to know how much to order. tank is currently packed with plants.
It had been more than 2 weeks since I started.
After my last update, I was out of town from 10 Nov to 14 Nov, so there was 4 days no water change. I was hoping everything will turns out well. But usually things don't happen as what we wish haha.
Haven't got time to update here as I had been busy looking for possible remedy by reading and asking around.
These photos are taken on 14th Nov:
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The first plant I saw when I walked into my house is the Rotala, was so delighted that it is doing pretty well.
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About 40% of my S.repens got its leaves melted on lower part of the stems....
Attachment 51292
Hair grass and MC also not looking good....
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Suddenly when I looked up, I saw this puddle of form (till now I still don't know why?) ....
I did a WC change immediately, trim my Rotala and replanted the tips to make it denser.
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Based on my beginner understanding, it is either CO2, or nutrients or lights
1) Drop checker is lime green, and no way I can count the bubble rate, so I assume is sufficient
2) Ferts....I thought I got it messed up...I'm using ADA soil and it is well known for its nutrients level, and during my trip, I realised that ADA only introduced K at the initial stage. However I had been dosing a reduced scale of EI....read somewhere in UKAPS that it is possible to have toxicity from over dosing, so I decided to stop dosing except small amount of K2SO4 dry fert
3) At that time, my LED light was only switch to 50% intensity. It didn't came across my mind that this may be the problem.....
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Another reason why I stop KNO3 is because my nitrate reading on test kit hits 40ppm. (Till today without KNO3, reading is around 10-20ppm)
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As there are more visible string algae, I went to get some Yamato and Red Nose shrimps the next day, 15th Nov (which is another mistake)...probably with still very little amount of Ammonia (0.5-1ppm on test kit) 3 Yamato jump out of water and 2 red nose died. I'm lucky the rest survived till today.
These photos were taken on 16th Nov:
Attachment 51293
More hair glass turns white
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A lot of MC having translucent leaves
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S.repens still slowing melting away...
I was in dismay...not knowing what to do, I just happened to text the guy who fabricate my LED light to chit chat (Thank God!). He told me I should have increase my light to 90% or full intensity! Lower intensity is normally used when combating algae outbreak...
Immediately, I went to fishy biz to get 1 tub of hair grass and MC to replenish.
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Did WC and done with replanting. And of course, switch my LED to full intensity!
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1447947447.396337.jpg
That same night, one of the red nose shrimp was happily swimming pass my inflow and this happened!!
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Bought a filter media bag from Seaview the next day and did some work on the inflow pipe. (Till now that same incident didn't repeat🏽
Also bought API PO4 and Easylife Test kits and tested 2ppm of PO4 and 20ppm of K. Had stopped dosing K2SO4 for 3 days (till today).
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After much panic and disappointment, things starts to look much better now.
Question:
1) I still don't see pearling from my plants, is it normal?
2) I have no way to bring down my tank temperature below 27.8degreeC...but my friend tank temperate is lowest is 26degreeC at his house (we took the reading at the same time with the same thermometer)....my house is really much warmer....will it become any problem in the future?
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Hi,
How do you inject the co2 and how long your light period?
Emerge to submerge transition might cause melting, but it shouldn't be bad if the new environment well balance.
Lower temperature could help to widen the balance / equilibrium sweet spot ( whichever people use the term) but it's not the real solution, i growth almost the plants you are using between 28-30 degrees
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Hi, I'm using a UP inline diffuser which connects to the outflow of my lily pipe for the misting effect.
Photoperiod I set it from 11am to 5pm, thinking of increasing it by 1hr.
Glad to hear that, thx=D
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Your light period may too short, unless your light is very bright (high par). You may imagine light is your mobile charger, high ampere may shorten your charge period, low ampere may take longer to get fully charged.
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Ok, I will increase a bit. As for the brightness of my light, I'm not pretty sure, I only know there are 108 LEDs and each LED is 0.5WYour light period may too short, unless your light is very bright (high par). You may imagine light is your mobile charger, high ampere may shorten your charge period, low ampere may take longer to get fully charged.
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Oh I forgotten to ask this, it is regarding KH and CO2.
KH is buffed up to 5dKH with Sodium Bicarbonate (1tsp to 100L up 2dKH - found this formula via Google).
However, my KH drops around 1dKH everyday. Fishy Biz guy told me if KH drop, it means my CO2 is not enough and the plants is converting the carbonate to carbon, thus reducing KH.
My drop checker always reaches lime green when I check it towards the end of the photo period.
Question:
- Wanna ask for advise should I increase my CO2 further? (Worry it may affect the live stock)...Or is there other possible way to keep my KH stable?
Thanks!
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In my opinion, kh (bicarbonate or carbonate) are being used for buffer purpose, so your ph doesn't swing up side down when you pumping up more co2 to the tank, Though plants may use carbonate as their alternative carbon source, but it require more energy to process. So when you inject good co2, it will be preferably by the plants as better/ efficient carbon source.
In my tank I rarely bothered about my kh meter, initially i was, but i tired and bored with those measurement
Adjusting your co2, good flow, nutrients and light more important. When you see lime green on your dropcheker, shift them around the tank especially those who may have stagnant spot/no flow/ near the melting plants, sometimes i turned to surprise it turned to blue or dark green on certain spot.
But if you really curious with adding kh to your tank, some abroad folks prefer potassium bicarbonate , potassium is useful for the plants. Where sodium bicarbonate, your only need the the carbon, the sodium just keep accumulated and not giving major benefit to the plants.
But i never see anyone sell potassium bicarbonate in Singapore, if anyone know who is selling it, that would be interested for my experience
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I heard ADA K is made by potassium carbonate
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Increase your co2 dosage, did you use 4dkh liquid for the drop checker?
I using pre-mixed solution. Saw the recommendation by UA.
Attachment 51302
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Week 3 update
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Everything seems doing well (keep fingers crossed)
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Tested zero Ammonia, added some live stock.
- CRS, Amano, Red Nose, Oto and Nerite.
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