how did you bag them?
how did you bag them?
Hi All,
Just to update that the filter has been cleaned up for the first time today, after more than 70 days. And it is also easier than what I thought. For Eheim Ecco Pro, it is very easy disassemble and reassemble the filter for cleaning.
The white sponge filter is totally brownish and I just replace by a new one.
The blue coarse filter is a bit dirty with leaves trapped there was rinsed by tap water.
The rest of bio media filter was actually quite clean, so I just rinsed it with tank water.
In addition, about 100ml of Seachem Purigen (half a bottle) was added on top of white sponge filter pad in order to trap the organic waste from the tank.
The filter bag:
Purigen was put in the filter bag and rinsed before use:
Purigen media filter bag was put at the top layer, before water being transfer to the impeller outlet.
It was quite tight to push the trays together with one bag of Purigen added in. But I finally managed to do it. Water after filter clean is quite of stronger now.
From now on, I am more confident to do this job. He he. Thanks all for your support and advice.
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LitiAquaria
Planted Tank Journal | YouTube |Instagram | Facebook Page
any purigen leak out? the holes small enough?
By washing the medias will you affect/reduce the beneficial bacterias?
I only cleaned the Blue Coarse Sponge by tap water since it acts as mechanical filter. The bio-media filter materials (i.e. Seachem Matrix, Eheim SubstratPro) were rinsed by the tank water itself. So the beneficial bacteria would not be affected much.
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LitiAquaria
Planted Tank Journal | YouTube |Instagram | Facebook Page
Just a quick tip to optimize the placement for Purigen, its best to create more space inside the filter to hold the Purigen pack (maybe remove some media to create the extra space).
This is so that the granules don't get compacted and squashed until the water flow ends up going around the pack, rather than through it. When the filter is stuffed too full and there is restricted flow, you'll sometimes see only the edges and parts of the pack turn brown, while other parts stay light beige, indicating uneven flow though and less absorption efficiency.
It works best when the granules can move around loosely so that water can flow though all of them, then it will achieve maximum efficiency and you will see the entire pack turn brown uniformly.
Packing the canister filter too pack may affect flow which is counter productive for a planted tank. You can consider using less Purigen so there's wiggle room as per what @UA advise. Also, I find mech media quite redundant especially when planted tanks usually house smaller fish. I'd replace the mech noodles (if you're using them) with more bio media and aid flow.
Hi Ivan,
I replaced Eheim Mech Pro (black noodles ) with Seachem Matrix bio media. So currently, there are: Eheim BioMech, Eheim SubstratPro and Seachem Matrix in the 3 trays.
I might adjust the filter quantity later to make it loser a bit for better flow. However, for now I still can see the flow is very strong after cleaning.
LitiAquaria
Planted Tank Journal | YouTube |Instagram | Facebook Page
Just have a test on the water quality after one of my oto died to see if any issue with that. Luckily, all of the parameters seems OK.
Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: Also 0ppm
pH: 6.4
It can be seen Nitrogen now is depleted in my tank. Is this due to the effect of Purigen filter media? Although the plants are still growing well, I guess it is time to dose more N and P for the tank.
BTW, I would like to check with you all on the experience of growing Otos. So far I only feed them zucchini and green pea and sometimes algae wafer. Is this lack of nutrients if only eat algae?
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LitiAquaria
Planted Tank Journal | YouTube |Instagram | Facebook Page
Hi jacky, I have 2 otos in my 2 ft. I don't specifically feed them anything at all and so far they look healthy and active. I have only put in cucumbers like 2 times over the past 4 months that I have them.
I also don't have a lot of algae in my tank. The occasional GSA which gets cleaned up quite fast by the otos or nerite snails.
I guess the otos survive by grazing on the biofilm on the plants and leaves. See them do that all the time.
Me too. I have 2 in my 2ft tank. I feed them sliced zucchini at the start when my tank had no algae. After that I had an algae bloom for a month or so, so I didn't feed them at all since their belly all looked fat and round.
Then when my algae completely cleared up, I dumped one zucchini in the tank just in case they ran out of food but none of them bothered to eat the zucchini so I assume they are still plenty of food in the tank even without GSA.
Purigen will reduce the rate of nitrate and phosphate production generated from livestock as it adsorption excess organic compounds, so if the remaining nutrients are used up by the plants, then you will need to dose more N and P fertilizer to compensate.
Do note that Purigen has limited capacity, so when it becomes full and stops adsorbing stuff, the nitrate and phosphate levels generated from livestock will rise again (which indicates its time to recharge the Purigen pack). Just have to keep an eye on this with regular monthly parameter tests.
Its okay for otos to just feed on natural algae in the tank, thats their main diet in the wild too. Supplementary feeding with vegetable slices and algae wafers is good if you find that there isn't much algae in the tank or if you notice the otos start to become skinny. As long as you see most of the otos have round tummies, it means they have enough to eat.
Sometimes otos will still die even with ample food and good tank conditions. It could be due to pre-existing illness or the delayed effects of stress from the LFS, so there wouldn't be much you can do in such cases.
Had been reading this thread for the past few days and it's rich with information and techniques. Superb.
Sorry to hijack a little, currently my tank setup is placed at the service balcony of my new BTO flat and unfortunately there is direct sunlight onto my tanks in the morning. So currently im in the midst of building another tank setup at my living hall that is away from direct sunlight throughout the day. I'm using Jacky's post as a guidance for this build. :P
Went down to GC today and learnt from Shop Master Ronnie that aquatic plants require a temperature of 24-26degree(C) to thrive. Currently my average tank temperature is 27.5 degrees even when it's night time, with fans blowing from the top. I'm not sure by shifting to the living hall, what the temperature fluctuation would be like. Let's say, the temperature remains at a high 28, what are the options do i have to bring the temperature down without the use of a chiller?
Thanks All for the tips and advice. I really love the Otos since they are cute, hard working and very peaceful fish. The one just died was one of my very first fish, too. Hopefully no more goner.
Hi UA. Thanks for your advice on Purigen and fertilizer. I will buy those N and P next week to dose for the tank.
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LitiAquaria
Planted Tank Journal | YouTube |Instagram | Facebook Page
Hi chesterchuen,
Thanks for spending time reading on my thread. That would be quite long!
The first thing to avoid is setting up the fish tank where direct sunlight is. It would have more chance for algae to grow and also tank temperature would be fluctuated which is not good for fauna and also flora. It is good decision that you choose to move it to the living hall.
Don't worry much about the low temperature (i.e. 24-26 degrees C). That would be the ideal condition for plants, however plants can thrive in room temperature, too. My tank temperature is normally about 30+degC in the day and 29degC in the night time, which is quite warm. You can buy fan instead of chiller to cool down the tank. I don't use any chiller or fan for cooling down but so far, flora and fauna are still doing well though.
Enjoy setting up the tank!
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LitiAquaria
Planted Tank Journal | YouTube |Instagram | Facebook Page
Without a chiller the best bet will be fans. Although you have to deal with water evaporation and daily water top ups. Unless your tank is in an air conditioned room.
My tank is usually at 27.5-28 deg with a fan blowing at the surface. Guess that is Singapore and nothing much we can do. The plants I have are still growing fine with adequate co2 and ferts. I believe most plants sold by our LFS should be alright in our indoor room temperature.
Perhaps those shifus who have grown plants in both chiller and non-chiller tanks can give better input on plant growth in cooler tanks.
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