"Passionately Curious"

[jackychun]

Horned nerite snails are mainly algae eaters, they don't go for commercial foods, at least not that i've noticed. 5 of them should have more than enough algae to eat in a 2ft planted tank (i usually keep around 10-12 in similar sized tanks).

The oto variant you have is otocinclus vestitus.

Just for reference, the other 2 common oto variants sold at most LFS are otocinclus vittatus (has additional white line above the black line) and otocinclus macrospilus (has large black blotch at the tail).

Thanks for enlightening me, UA!

I would like to try keeping 5 of them first to see if they are OK with the soft water environment (pH about 6 to 6.4). Are you keeping them at the same environment too? If OK, then slowly I will increase the stock for more horned snails.

[Urban Aquaria]

Thanks for enlightening me, UA!

I would like to try keeping 5 of them first to see if they are OK with the soft water environment (pH about 6 to 6.4). Are you keeping them at the same environment too? If OK, then slowly I will increase the stock for more horned snails.

I keep them in soil based low pH tanks and also sand based higher pH tanks, they can easily adapt to both types of environments.

In higher pH environments, they grow well with strong shells and they can live for quite a long time. The oldest ones in my tanks have been around for close to 2 years.

On the other hand, in lower pH environments, their shells usually dissolve and erode over time due to the acidic conditions and they tend to have shorter lifespans. So you just have to replenish their numbers more frequently.

[jackychun]

I keep them in soil based low pH tanks and also sand based higher pH tanks, they can easily adapt to both types of environments.

In higher pH environments, they grow well with strong shells and they can live for quite a long time. The oldest ones in my tanks have been around for close to 2 years.

On the other hand, in lower pH environments, their shells usually dissolve and erode over time due to the acidic conditions and they tend to have shorter lifespans. So you just have to replenish their numbers more frequently.

I see. Thanks UA! Just one more question, do we need to direct the snails near to glass surface so that they can climb on there? I have noticed the one I placed near tank glass readily climbing around whereas those near the rock just stay still/moving slowly for almost a day.

[Urban Aquaria]

I see. Thanks UA! Just one more question, do we need to direct the snails near to glass surface so that they can climb on there? I have noticed the one I placed near tank glass readily climbing around whereas those near the rock just stay still/moving slowly for almost a day.

The snails will naturally travel around the tank as they search for algae, so eventually you will see them graze on the tank glass too. But if you find that certain parts of tank glass or plant leaves need extra algae cleaning, then just gently slide the horned nerite snails away from their perch (don't just pull them off as that can cause injury), and place them on or near the area to be cleaned. If they move away, then just repeat the placement and after a while they will do the job.

I do that all the time to direct them to spot clean specific areas of the tank... sort of like a cleaning supervisor.

[Urban Aquaria]

Btw, your horned nerite snails will occasionally climb to the top of the tank and out of the water, this doesn't necessarily mean water parameters are bad (they will do that even if water conditions are good), these nerite snails are tidal creatures and can crawl out of water to migrate around, so its their natural behaviour to explore out of water. Most of the time they will crawl back into the water.

But once in a while you might find a particularly curious nerite snail continue crawling the wrong way and end up on the floor. If you see a nerite snail on the floor and its operculum is closed, just pick it up and drop it back into the aquarium. They can actually last almost a day closed up outside the tank, and then resume crawling about once returned back into water.

The next question most people will ask is... what if you accidentally step on a horned nerite snail that crawled out of a tank? Well, i encountered that before and its like stepping on a pin, not fun. Thats one of the reasons why i use a nail clipper to trim and round off all the spikes on my horned nerite snails. Safety first.

[exo]

Wow... need to manicure snails before.. noted

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[jackychun]

Btw, your horned nerite snails will occasionally climb to the top of the tank and out of the water, this doesn't necessarily mean water parameters are bad (they will do that even if water conditions are good), these nerite snails are tidal creatures and can crawl out of water to migrate around, so its their natural behaviour to explore out of water. Most of the time they will crawl back into the water.

But once in a while you might find a particularly curious nerite snail continue crawling the wrong way and end up on the floor. If you see a nerite snail on the floor and its operculum is closed, just pick it up and drop it back into the aquarium. They can actually last almost a day closed up outside the tank, and then resume crawling about once returned back into water.

The next question most people will ask is... what if you accidentally step on a horned nerite snail that crawled out of a tank? Well, i encountered that before and its like stepping on a pin, not fun. Thats one of the reasons why i use a nail clipper to trim and round off all the spikes on my horned nerite snails. Safety first.

Oh, I didn't know that the horned snails need to be manicured! I chose the one with good horns from the shop and thought that should be the healthy one. Then your snails should be "botak" snails then. :P

[Urban Aquaria]

Oh, I didn't know that the horned snails need to be manicured! I chose the one with good horns from the shop and thought that should be the healthy one. Then your snails should be "botak" snails then. :P

Well, its not necessary to trim the spikes, most people just leave them be. I just do it in case they get accidently stepped on again.

[jackychun]

Well, its not necessary to trim the spikes, most people just leave them be. I just do it in case they get accidently stepped on again.

Haha! I see. I think they look cute with the spikes. So I just let them be.

BTW, have you encountered your Rummynose just gather at one corner of the tank? My Rummynose just gather at one corner and not really active swimming around unless eating time or people approach. I don't know if because the Rotala Bonsai block their way at the middle and makes them unsure about the other side of the tank.

[Urban Aquaria]

Looks like your rummynose tetras have learnt the best places to rest. Those fishes do take rest breaks periodically throughout the day, you probably spotted them during nap time.

The area under the lily pipe has lowest flow so its an ideal location, most of my fishes will rest at the calm corners too, between feedings and foraging activities. Its quite normal.

[jackychun]

Looks like your rummynose tetras have learnt the best places to rest. Those fishes do take rest breaks periodically throughout the day, you probably spotted them during nap time.

The area under the lily pipe has lowest flow so its an ideal location, most of my fishes will rest at the calm corners too, between feedings and foraging activities. Its quite normal.

Thanks UA! That makes me feel relief. I thought that they were under stressed or something.
Do you always turn the outflow to the max for Eheim Ecco Pro 300? Or you adjust to less flowrate? Does the high flow affect the fish activities?

[Urban Aquaria]

For my setup with Ecco Pro 300 connected to inline Co2 reactor, the max flow was just right, i didn't need to reduce it further.

As long as the tank has some areas where the fishes can stay still and rest, it's okay for them.

[jackychun]

For my setup with Ecco Pro 300 connected to inline Co2 reactor, the max flow was just right, i didn't need to reduce it further.

As long as the tank has some areas where the fishes can stay still and rest, it's okay for them.

Thanks UA. I follow the same set up as yours and turn flow to the max, too. Rummynose are quite active but mostly they stay at the bottom half of the tank. So the top half is quite empty. I am looking for some active fishes that make the top half more lively. Do you have any suggestions on that?

[dualie]

If you visit Sea View, you can see that one of the most active schooling fish are the Harlequin Rasbora.
These fish do mainly swim in the upper region of a tank.


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[jackychun]

If you visit Sea View, you can see that one of the most active schooling fish are the Harlequin Rasbora.
These fish do mainly swim in the upper region of a tank.


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Thanks dualie! I will consider Harlequin Rasbora in the next visit to LFS.

[lcdscreen]

You can consider clown killies too! They may not be good schoolers (i don't think) but they mostly hang around the top of the tank.

[jackychun]

You can consider clown killies too! They may not be good schoolers (i don't think) but they mostly hang around the top of the tank.

Thanks for your suggestion bro. I will look for it too!

[jackychun]

I am reading this in a newly borrowed book and just cannot hold laughing out loud. Don't know who already got all the 3 Syndrome.


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[jackychun]

I have noticed the Star Grass (Heteranthera zosterifolia) recently got a many scratched leaves.
And I have found the naughty culprit. This is my Amano Shirmp who like to munch on the soft leaves.
I recorded the video when he was munching the leaves.

https://youtu.be/U5Y2VrI8CD0

[jackychun]

This small tub is so cool to contain fish food. So no need to open the big tub time to time which makes the food quality reduced.


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