I second that , just do weekly water change will do.
There are no reason for your plants to melt badly during transition, in my humble opinion . With the Evo, you can grow almost anything. Since your soil is new, water change everyday is not necessary at all since you have no live stocks. The ammonia is there for a reason, removing them is basically wasting the money on why you acquire the Ada soil in the first place.
in fact just do some water change once a week, add bacteria to cycle your tank.
Taking water reading for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate is more to observe and enjoy the tank cycling process. And of course to let you know when live stocks can be added.
by changing water, you are doing the reverse, you are slowing down the tank cycling process.
just my 2 cents worth.
Yes, UA is right, turn up the CO2, 6-8bps would be good. Infact if your soil is new, you can get away without dosing Fert for the first 2-3 weeks. Too much excess Fert with little plant mass to take them up and with High lights, you will have algae outbreak soon.
I second that , just do weekly water change will do.
Noted on that bro UA. Will continue to monitor them based on your direction.
Ah i see. Thanks! Think i've misread some of the information, hence my daily water change. Shall reduce down to just weekly instead until the tank is cycled fully. Alright, shall do away with dosing Fert for this coming week. Perhaps will start dosing again 2 weeks later and see how.
Yup. Will do just that!
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Meanwhile, some of my Staurogyne leaves have melted as shown below. However it's not too much of a concern because it's not the entire plant that had melted. Trimmed away those leaves that had melted, hopefully they will grow back healthy.
Ammonia readings have dropped down to 2ppm, while Nitrite reading is at 0.5ppm. Nitrates currently zero.
The cycling process seems like OK.
How is the flow circulation in your tank bro? Do you see the water movement around the tank? That is also important factor for plants growing, too...
LitiAquaria
Planted Tank Journal | YouTube |Instagram | Facebook Page
Movement is very good. Plants at every corner waving at me hahaha. Moving on, i think i found out the reason of the Rotala Bonsai's melting. After my 2nd planting of the plant, i noticed yet again some melting of the plant. A closer look and i noticed that the plants are melting from the roots up, so that means something is wrong with the roots.
I took them out and realised they seems to be rotting from the root. This is because when i plant them, they were all bunched together as they were in the pot. The reason why they were bunching is because the roots were so badly tangled and twisted together that i'm afraid of pulling them apart and tearing the roots. So i planted them like that anyway.
Then i realised, roots that have no aeration in the soil will eventually rot and die away. Correct me i'm wrong here. Somewhat it's like everyone being stuffed into the MRT with the aircon switched off. Below you can see on the left, where the plants were bunched together as their roots were tangled in a mess. You can see some darkened roots, which i believe were roots that are rotting. On the right are plants that i had slowly untangled and taken apart individually.
Eventually i planted the plants individually as seen before.
Hopefully after this the plants will slowly grow back healthily.
My Rotala Bonsai and Eleocharis is still melting badly while Heteranthera and Staurogyne is fine. However i read somwhere that it is because the plant is transitioning from being grown emersed into growing submerged. No wonder the bros here mentioned that it will happen during first few weeks after planting. For the Rotala Bonsai, from the image below you can see roots growing from the nodes of the stem, but anything below is dark and appears to be melting. So i trimmed the upper healthy portion that has the roots growing and replanted it into the soil. Let's see what will happen. Fingers crossed.
That is fine to plant rotala bonsai from stalks without any roots. I always do that with mine. After trimming, I just remove few leaves at the bottom end (so that the roots can grow out from there), and plant it directly to the soil.
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LitiAquaria
Planted Tank Journal | YouTube |Instagram | Facebook Page
Today is the 19th day of the setup. So far going fine except hair algae starting appearing almost everywhere, but in tiny quantities. I just use my siphon to suck them out. Meanwhile, pH values remained the same at 6.4, Ammonia had dropped to zero while Nitrites is very high at 5.0ppm, Nitrates at 40ppm. Water change carried out every 3 days for now. Next week reducing to just once per week. I've replanted some Bonsai, currently 4 stems growing well. Eleocharis slowly expanding too. Staurogyne some had melted, but leaves growing back. Heteranthera growing as per normal. I've changed the Trident Fern to a big one, now i can see them bubbling oxygen. Did saw some bubbles from Eleocharis too.
Unfortunately my com kicked the bucket recently, so wont be able to upload photos as of now.
I'm having same problem. The uncle told me don't stick them together. But not nice if separate them out. I did put roots fertilizer around them but suspect the fertilizer is lousy. Going to get solid fertilizer and let them grow like a jungle!lol
You should cut a portion of the roots off before planting as it would stimulate the plants to grow new roots and hence anchor the plants onto the substrate . Do this to all newly introduced plants . Also , a healthy roots should look fresh and white , I did not see that in the image you posted . What you can do now is to give the plants time to adapt and grow . Cut away dead stem and leaves but never remove the whole plant , who know , it will regrow back in a matter of time .
Do not add fertiliser in the 1st few days , not useful for the plants .
If you've learnt, teach, if you have, give.
Don't walk behind me as I might not lead, don't walk in front of me as I might not follow. Walk beside me, as my friend.
Mohamad Rohaizal is my name. If it's too hard, use BFG. I don't mind.
Been very long since my last update. This year April i replanted most of my plants. Removed the Trident fern and Heteranthera. Added Downoi, Rotala 'Green', Alternanthera Reineckii and AR Mini, and Fissiden Moss. I also experimented with removing one light source (i had two Odyssea Evo 24).
Here are my experiences:
- I noticed some parts of the tank were dark when i removed one of the lights. Downoi and my hair grass growth became really slow and stunted. So recently i added back 1 light, meaning now i have two Odyssea Evo 24 lights.
- I was also advised by a LFS to try switching on my CO2 for 24 hours. Did it for close to 2 months, no issues and no deaths on my livestock.
- Dosing of ferts (SeaChem) as according to a schedule like this on a weekly basis:
After having 2 lights for a week, i have been battling algae issues as shown below:
Prior to adding 1 additional light, the Fissiden moss had been growing nicely and lush without any algae. My plants aren't melting and is pearling actually. But the algae is really freaking my out. Algae is also growing on the glass, which is why the tank looks yellowish.
Looks bad, whats the reason for 24 hours of co2? i dun see a need or any reason why it will stop algae. And why are you not dosing nitrate and phosphate? These 2 are park of the macros (NPK).
I was told it would help maintain a stable pH value. I didnt know i had to dose Nitrates and Phosphates. I just measured my parameters, Phosphates at 0.1, Nitrates at 5. Seems like its not correct. I read that planted need to have Phosphates at 1, Nitrates at 10-20?
For planted with co2 and reasonable light you can aim for phosphates 1-3ppm and nitrates 10-20ppm.
If I recalled, Beamswork Evo is 3 watt LED. For a 2 feet tank, why do you need a 3 watt led? Why would you even need 2 of them? LFS told you to on 24 hour co2? You sure? Which LFS?
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