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Thread: Need Advice and help for Starting a Planted Aquarium

  1. #1
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    Hi Friends,

    I have been reading a lot about Planted aquarium and finally decided to take the plunge and bought 2 second hand 3 Feet (36 inches) Length glass tanks from my friend). The dimensions are 36''x18''x18''. He was kind enough to give me the stand, PH meter, a eiheim canister filter. One of the tank is also having the normal kind of a filter which an overhead hood type where in you fill sponge or other filtering materials. Each of the tank is having overhood lights. Each overhood is having 2 x 18watts normal tubes.

    Now, as i understand i need to buy these things if i want to start a planted aquarium

    1) CO2 cannister: - Will a 2 liter suffice along with the solinoid and regulators?

    2) PL Lights:- As i understand from some of the earlier threads, that for 3 litre tank, i would need 4 PL lights of 36 watts. If that is the case how do i fit it in to the normal ligh hood i am having? Do i need to do some modification to the hood or do i need to buy a new lighting hood for that?

    3) Is it ok to have 4 PL lights fitted to the lighting hood, since the water can really become warm, or do i need to buy some other modification for holding the PL lights. Are this different kind of modifications availabe in the LFS? Can you recommend the best LFS for that?

    4) What are the different plants for a beginner? Which LFS sells the best drift woods?

    I understand usually there are 3 levels of substrate. The first one is the Sand type, Followed by the nutrient substrate and finally the pea gravel on the top. Please do advice me which are the brands supplying all these 3 layers of substrate and which LFS actually shops them.

    Regards,
    Rajesh

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    Welcome there

    1) 2L will suffice, although you might have to refill more often compared to a 3L one. Also, it might be easier to get a 3L one nowadays.

    2) I can't help you on the wattage requirement, others can. I assume you want a high light CO2-enriched high maintainence tank. Most of the time it'll be easier to not use the hood that came along, unless you are pretty handy at DIY and modifications.

    3) Again, I can't help you.

    4) The easiest to try is always Java fern (Microsorium pteropus) and Anubias nana (Anubias barteri var. nana). You can also try stemmed plants, Riccia, various mosses, etc. In short, there's not much restriction on what you can try for your first tank. The more important problem is growing plants well without algae.

    There are usually only 2 levels of a substrate: base fertiliser at the bottom, and normal gravel at the top. For this the common configuration of JBL Aquabasis Plus and the gravel Lapis sand will do well.

    If you have the money, go for ADA Aquasoil. It does not need base fertiliser, and plants grow great in it. However, it does not take kindly to frequent replanting and shifting (that you will most likely do for your first tank as you trial and error) because it will break down into mushy soil. It's literally a soil.

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    Hi Rajesh,

    I suggest you forget about using the hood for your tank (if that's what you meant). Instead, get yourself 1 or 2 PL light sets. They usually comes with two 36 w PL tubes per set. Look out for switches that will allow you to switch one or both tubes on (good feature).

    If you modify your tank hood to hold the PL tubes then heat will become a problem (as you have anticipated).

    Like Terence, I would suggest you use JBL aquabasis plus, with lapis sand, that was what I used when I first started, because it will not alter your water chemistry (less things to worry about).

    Some starter plants which I would consider suitable for beginner would be:
    E. Tennellus, Blyxa Japonica, common lotus. If you enjoy maintaining your tank, you could also go for stem plants such as Rotala rotundifolia. All the plants which I have suggested are fast growing plants, and you will witness new leaves/runners within 2 weeks of planting.

    Remember to slowly increase your lighting hours, I would recommend you start off with 6 hours for the first 2 weeks, then increase to 8 hours and beyond after that.

    While you're at the LFS, you might want to consider getting yourself a fan as well, you don't need it now, but you will probably need it in 4-5 months time.

    Oh, by the way, what do you mean by "best" driftwood?
    - eric

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    Hi guys,
    Thanks for all your replies. The replies were great. How ever i have some more to ask you experts.
    Sorry about some misunderstanding i caused when i said hood (i am very new to aquarium so the terms are not familiar). What i mean to say is the that the two aquaiums of mine comes with a light set (There is complete hood cover for this tank). Each light set has two 18 watts ordinary tubes with reflector. The tubes are covered by a long thin plastic sheet which must be removed in order to take the tubes out.
    That means to say the light set stays at the top of the tank, we can just place it there with its support legs which are sliding type at the top edge of the tank. It takes quater of the tank width at the top. Similarly two tanks also has a filter , where the water is actually filtered at the top using sponge. The water is sucked in my a water pump to the top. The filter equipment (a long plastic container with several sections where in we can put sponge etc) also stays at the top. I have one extra cannister filter also given by the gentleman. I have read that top filters are not good for planted aquarium since the filterred water enters from the top creating ripples which will hinder efficient carbondioxide bubbling.
    So my question is that
    1) whether can i use the same light set to put PL lights in there (i am doubtful whether the connector is the same for the PL and the ordinary flourescent tubes). Do i need to completely forgo the set and buy new sets for the PL lights.
    2) For a planted aquarium of my size 3 ft long x 1.5ft width x 1.5 ft high, Do i need 4 PL lights of 36 watts each?

    3) If i buy the lightsets, do i need to buy the model which just rests at teh top the tank along with edges using its support (just like the one i am having)? or which is the recommeded ones by you guys?
    4) When i said "best" drift wood, what i mean is properly treated ones. whcih doesn't give out any colour or tannis acid in the long run.
    5) Usually how long does a 3L carbondioxide cannister remain before another refilling?
    6) what are the basic steps i should take to avoid algae growth. I have heard from my aquaitance that algae growth once grow out of control will result in replanting of the whole aquarium itself.

    Regards,
    Rajesh

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    Hi,

    1) Yes. My opinion, forget about using the tank hood (the plastic thing you're describing).
    2) Get yourself 1 set of PL lights. Since your tank isn't that tall or big, 1 set with 2 bulbs (36w x 2) should be plenty, unless you're planning on keeping plants with high light requirements.
    3) Yes, those will do.
    4) Cheapskate like myself can't help you with that, I get the normal ones and soak them.
    5) Can't help you with this either, but this would also depend on the rate of injecting you will be using.
    6) Plant heavily right from the start, do not add any liquid fert during the first 2 weeks, have a shorter photo period during the first 2 weeks.

    Regarding your filter, the one you're describing is a hang on top filter, which is not suitable, use the canister filter instead. Hope my input helps.

    Happy planting!
    - eric

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    Hi eric,
    Thanks a lot for your suggesion and advice. Most probably i would visit LFS to buy the CO2 cannister along with the PL lights as you suggested.

    Another thing i wanted to tell is the typo error in my previous message. i have wrongly mentioned (There is complete hood cover for this tank). Infact my tank is open at the top with the exception of light set and filter. This is just to give all of you a more clear picture.
    Anyway as you have mentioned the light set currently i am having cannot be used or modified to cater for PL lights, i will buy a new set of 2 PL lights to start with.

    Another thing is that you did mention that you soak your drift wood.Does that mean that you will soak it in plain water for a couple of weeks to get rid of colour?

    Regards,
    Rajesh

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    Quote Originally Posted by bossteck View Post
    Hi,

    6) Plant heavily right from the start, do not add any liquid fert during the first 2 weeks, have a shorter photo period during the first 2 weeks.
    Why is that an issue to add good amount of nutrients from the start? Photosynthesis starts when there is enough light and does not take 2 weeks to get going. Yes, the uptake rate might not be at its max but the key is to prevent things from bottoming out. Limitation in nutrients to prevent algae is not a wise move since it never does hurt the algae but rather the plants.

    Shorter photoperiods does not do much but rather you should lower the intensity of the light. The amount of light drives photosynthesis and not the duration.

    Regards,
    Peter Gwee
    Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger

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    Hi,

    I may have given you a wrong impression as well.

    The fact is, you CAN modify your light housing to accomodate PL tubes. But it is not going to be easy, and probably not really worth the effort, since your present casing, if I am not wrong, is coupled with the filter housing, which doesn't really look that good What you can reuse in your modification will probably be the ballast, the reflector, and the casing.

    For me, I soak newly purchase driftwood in a bucket for 2 months and beyond. Everyweek, I will change the water and fill it up with boiling water. If you want to speed up the process, you can find a pot which you no longer want (unlikely) and boil the driftwood in the pot.

    Cheers!
    - eric

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterGwee View Post
    Why is that an issue to add good amount of nutrients from the start? Photosynthesis starts when there is enough light and does not take 2 weeks to get going. Yes, the uptake rate might not be at its max but the key is to prevent things from bottoming out. Limitation in nutrients to prevent algae is not a wise move since it never does hurt the algae but rather the plants.

    Shorter photoperiods does not do much but rather you should lower the intensity of the light. The amount of light drives photosynthesis and not the duration.

    Regards,
    Peter Gwee
    I practice that because I prefer to err on the safe side (and more importantly, I am cheap ), rather than estimating the uptake rate of the plants and dosing accordingly , I rather not dose at all and take the chance that nutrients will bottom out. 2 weeks isn't that long, and the base fert should be enough to sustain the plants during this period, till they have taken a stronger hold in the tank.

    Regarding shorter photoperiod vs lower intensity, I was under the impression that too 'much' light increases risks of algae bloom. I may have misunderstood what was meant by too 'much' in my readings. But based on my own planting experience, this practice of a shorter photo period during the initial weeks had served me well.

    Cheers!
    - eric

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    Hi Guys,
    Thanks for all your replies and for your patience in answering my queries. This conversation will really help me in getting started in planted aquarium.

    Regards,
    Rajesh Puru

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