Are you doing a fishless cycle?
Hello everyone
After reading the Simple/cheap neocaridina shrimp Set up Guide (Just for sharing) by p0ip0i and a bit of Q&A, I've decided to start a 13L nano shrimp tank project and I'm calling it "Greenwood" for future reference.
Unfortunately, the guide written by p0ip0i got lost and was unrecoverable when the forum went down recently. p0ip0i has rewritten the guide and posted it as Cheapest Simple Tank - Neo Caridina Shrimp Set-up Guide.
Anyway, I have got all the things I needed last week. It is a 30cm x 18cm x 24cm (13L) tank and it's going to be low-tech. No CO2 and possibly no fertilizers. It will house a few neocaridina shrimps and the hardscape will be a piece of driftwood (with plants tied to it), a catappa leaf plus a few cactus sticks. As for filtration, I'll be using a HOB filter for ease of maintenance and quiet operation.
Stuffs I Bought
- API Freshwater Master Test Kit
- AZOO Mignon Filter 150
- ANS OptiCube Tank 30M (with glass cover & tank mat)
- FLEXI mini HCRI LED Light
- Seachem Prime
- Seachem Stability
- BorneoWild Enlive
- BorneoWild Bee Ball
- Gush Feed Tray
- Xiaomi TDS Water Test Pen
- GEX Crystal Thermometer S
- Seachem de*nitrate
- Hikari Tropical Shrimp Cuisine
- GEX Shrimp Sand
Stuffs Not Shown
- Driftwood with mini fissidens
- Catappa leaf
- Cactus sticks
Stuffs I Have
- Fish net
- Acclimation kit
- Small plastic tank
- Syringes
The tank was set up last Friday and it is still cycling. I will continue doing water changes and monitoring the water parameters every three to four days before adding any shrimps.
- Driftwood with mini fissidens
- Catappa leaf
- Cactus sticks
I'm new to all of this so I may miss certain important stuffs. That's where you guys come in. I will appreciate it if you can give some inputs and advise along the way. And yes, I plan to breed the neocaridina shrimps with this project. Whether this experiment is a success or failure, I'm in it for the experential learning. At the same time, I hope my project will help other beginners too.
Thank you in advance.
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
Are you doing a fishless cycle?
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
nice! looking forward to your updates
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My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
Hi Wan Great and Clean setup will be following your post. But i also think that your setup is a little overkill haha. Catapa leave and cactus stick is to lower down the PH and Neocaridina prefer PH 6.8 - 7.3.
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
i think the catappa leaf is way too big for your tank, you may face yellow water issues as well as the cholla wood.. i will recommend u to presoak it 2-3 days before adding them in..
as for your hang on filter.. take note of your water level, if it gets low, the water rush may agitate your soil. Add in your bee ball it helps with your water cycle(it can build beneficial bacterial for tank)..
Lastly if you're cycling your water, do NOT do water changes.. test your water probably after 2 weeks.. saves your test kits instead of wasting them..
Hello p0ip0i
Thank you for looking through my new setup.
I'm beginning to agree with you that the catappa leaf is way too big for my tank. Should I cut it smaller or do I get those that are sold for nano tank instead? Oddly enough, my tank water is not as yellow/brown as expected. That's probably because the catappa leaf and cactus sticks have been pre-soaked for 24 - 48 hours before I set up the tank to make sure they sink (except for that one cactus stick that still refuses to sink).
I'll take note of the HOB filter outflow and make sure it doesn't go below its lip to prevent soil agitation. Thanks for the tip.
Actually, I've already added three BorneoWild Bee Ball into the water since I set up the tank. It has been "strategically" placed behind the driftwood so that it can't be seen from the front.
Please keep your feedbacks coming in. I appreciate it.
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
When cycling your tank with Enlive, this builds b.bacteria, the main purpose. Cycle from Ammonia to nitrite to nitrate, this is where u know your tank is fully cycled. Whereas if you keep doing water changes, you wont be able to achieve such cycle as you kept removing build-up such as ammonia. You may add some fish/shrimp food to speed up the process too..
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
Last edited by NanoScaper; 21st Dec 2016 at 17:02.
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
Using frogbits or floating plants can prevent your algae growth(taking up excess nitrates).. hope I answered your question..
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The More You Know, The Simpler It Is..
Cheapest Simple Tank NeoCaridina Shrimp Set up Guide
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
If u have seachem denitrate, probably u do not need the floating plant unless u intend to keep the tank chemical free.
U have a feeding tray but no feeding tube or long pincer, how do u intend to place the food there?
Also, the filter seems small, what is the filtration power? Do u intend to depend on the filter wool inside the cartridge of the filter to house the bb?
Last but not least, do u manually on and off the lightings? If so, best to get timer.
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Yes! I was hoping that someone with a sharp eye will ask me regarding my choice of filter and filter media. Allow me to explain myself and I hope I got it correct. Would love to discuss it further should you have any feedback.
The size of the tank holds about 12L of water max. I mentioned it incorrectly in this thread title and first post. Minus the substrate and everything else in the tank, I measured the water volume to be about 10L. I'm shooting for a flow rate of 10x (or more of) the water volume, hence the reason for the AZOO Mignon Filter 150 which is rated at 120L/h and I hope you agree with me that this is adequate.
As for the filter media, I chose to use Seachem de*nitrate because if used below a flow rate of 200L/h, it will develop adequate anaerobic environment to support denitrifying bacteria. At least, that is what Seachem claims and only time will tell with this experiment. If I understood that correctly, it will turn nitrates to harmless nitrogen gas that escape through the water surface of the aquarium.
I have to add that Seachem also mentioned that at slow flow rates (less than 200 litres per hour), it will function as both an aerobic filter and an anaerobic denitrifying filter.
Yes, I was wondering about that after I had everything set up. I was thinking of getting a tweezer to do this.
How do most people place food into the tray? Or what is recommended based on your experience.
Forgot to mention it in the first post but I do have a timer for the light and photoperiod is set for six hours at the moment before being bumped up higher.
An IKEA timer that I had last time when they were sold in packs of twos or threes, I think. They don't sell it anymore, unfortunately. Cheap and good.
My Current Journals: Nano Diorama Aquascape | Nano Dutch Tank | Nano Ryoboku Tank | Nano Iwagumi Tank
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