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Ada fertilizer commonly in lean sides, shouldn't harm your fauna. What algae's are you getting should when you reduce the doses?
Hallo evefybody.
I'm using full system of ADA. I have 90*45*45cm tank, 2xSolar = 300w on 223L aquarium,there is co2 4-5 bubbles per second. I add 25 times brighty K and Step 2 everyday. I have using spectra pure reverse osmos, I have 8 TDS. I add brightwell Gh+.So I have water with dKh=0 and dGh=3.But using Brighty K to rise dKh in aquarium water to dKh=2. So my aquarium water is dKh=2 and dGh=3. I add ADA fertilizers a lot because if i don't algae will attack my aquarium. My dosing is optimal level for my plants, but Amano shrimps and red crystal shrimps keep dying. My experience speaks that dosing above 13-14 times of fertilizers face to die. And if I reduce of my dosage I can get algae a lot and my plants will start to die. So. I don't understand, how to keep shrimps using ADA system.I want to have aquarium like Amano's gallery.
Please, I need answers from members using ada system only.Thanks!
Ada fertilizer commonly in lean sides, shouldn't harm your fauna. What algae's are you getting should when you reduce the doses?
Brighty K and Step 1 say that shrimps should die if i pour a lot fertilizers.It's my understanding that optimal dosing 1ml for 20L. Increasing dosage lead to enchanced to die of shrimps. If i reduce fertilizers I get cyanobacteria and thread algae.. and my bolbitis turning black, eleocharis mini turning yellow, I dont get pearling.
This is a new account, would it be safe to presume that you are new to this hobby?Originally Posted by salfegio
Would be great if you can share details of the tank, it's history and a full shot of the tank with water parameters.
I've been working aquarist 10 years and last year I use ADA system only. What parameters of water would you like to think? I've written dKh, dGh, but it doesn't matter because ADA don't recommend to do tests permanent. On initial stage only. For recognise existing ammonia and nitrite. That's all. If you use ADA system must to know it. Or don't I understand something? I've started 7 aquariums last half-year. And I take experience If I put step 2 and brighty K above 13 times my shrimps keep dying. And what does parameters of water have to do?? I'm using water like water in Niigata. 2dKh 2dGh.
Im not as experienced as u, but i do notice afew key points missing.
1) what is your tank ph? Crs prefer ph level of 6.8-7.
2) did your shrimp complete a proper acclimatising? Crs is very sensitive to every changes.
3) generally, with tds level of 2/3, your shrimp would probably die due to lack of minerals needed for the shrimp to molt successful. Using rodi is to achieve 0 tds. Before water is added into the tank, it needs to be re-mineralise to the optimal level for your crs (crs is more sensitive. If your crs survives, your amona will).
4) gh usually will be ard 6-8 for planted tank due to many reason like high fert dosage. Shrimp generally do well in 1-3 for crs. Lower grade crs may do well in 4-6 at most.
5) kh would generally be high in planted tank due to injection of co2. Generally, shrimp prefer 0. At most for crs kh level should be 1-3.
6) since u are using ada system, what is the water temp? Crs prefer cooler water while amona can adapt easier
7) shrimp dont do well in planted tank due to fert. Its either you go shrimp or planted. Having shrimp in planted tank is only to act as clean up crew. Thats why not much hobbyists uses crs in planted as mentioned in point 4,5.
Just my 1 cent worth. Hope to learn more from the master here
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1. pH before lightning 7, after 8 hours lighgtning is 6,3, But I saw how mr. Amano inject in his gallery and I do like he, around 4-5 b\sec. Are there anotrher ways?
2. On initial stage after buying shrimps I take bucket and put a dropper foa 30 min times
3. What reminiralezer would recommend
4. ADA fertilizers do not rise up dGh.
5. I can make any dKh parameters. If I use green brighty K dKh rise up, If i Use green brighty neutral dKh doesn't rise up. But! Green brighty Neutral is a new line of fertilizers, so before it was not and was added green brighty K only therefore dKh permanent rising up in a week.
6. 24-26. But i see how shrimps live in LFS and there is 27 grad and TAP water (not RO\DI) and it live there very good!
7. In each aquarium gallery of Amano live 40-60 Amano shrimps...
Seeing how switching over to ADA ferts for 1 year is giving you a lot of problem, why not just drop the system and revert to your old fert regime for the past 10 years? I don't use bucket to acclimate shrimps, I use live bags and drip them while they are floating in the tank to ensure they have the same temperature. The reason why LFS shrimps are striving is because they don't add ferts to their tanks, they just add conditioners, things like ammonia and nitrate are taken care by their huge bio filters in their sumps.
There are a lot of people with 1 feet ADA moss only tank with 20 to 30 shrimps, all breeding at 30 degrees celsius with no problem.
Don't over think it, if a ADA fert is giving problem, stop using and monitor before confirming if it is really giving problems.
By the way, we only have less than 20 members online at any given time here compared to 2000 members some 12 years ago, so reply can be sparse. You can seek help at Planted Tank forum concurrently, they have a few thousand members there.
Last edited by torque6; 21st Aug 2017 at 23:17.
I have played with crystal shrimps on my planted tank a few times, all of them perished after some time.
But Amano shrimps are very hardy with them surviving in my tanks. My dosing is quite light, thus
plants growth is quite slow.
What substrate are you using and are any base fertilizers being used?
1) the swing in ph would probably wipe out most bee shrimp. In order to have pearling effect, co2 injection have to high. Those that make it through the swing are stronger but eventually, it will be stressed out.
2) this is not the proper way to acclimate shrimps/sensitive fish. The proper way is to ensure the tank tds = shrimp tds. It may take more than 6 hours to 48 hours depending the grading of the funa. The more sensitive it is, the longer it takes. Once tank tds = shrimp tds, that is when u let it float in tank to ensure the temperature is the same.
3) i only uses minerals rocks meant for shrimp. You may have to seek the pro breeder or shop owner for recommendations.
4) GH may not be raised by the fert/soil but since you are doing planted, the stone and driftwood are leaking substance that altered the GH.
5) KH is the amount of co2 in the water. The lower the co2, the better the shrimp thrive. But lower co2 means your plant will not pearl.
6) like what torque have mentioned, LFS only keep moss with their shrimp. You will hardly see bee shrimp thrive in a beautiful planted tank.
7) yes amono shrimp will survive in planted tank and will be doing well. Same goes to neo which is hardly. But if you compare it to bee/tiger, most probably will see 1/2 casualties daily.
Cheers
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Never! ADA is best what I see for aquarium..Seeing how switching over to ADA ferts for 1 year is giving you a lot of problem, why not just drop the system and revert to your old fert regime for the past 10 years?
So, are you agree that fertilizers are the cause of dying Amano shrimps?Russian LFS do not know, what is sump for fresh water aquariums. And "huge bio-filter" at best scenario is internal filter with pump 800l\h with sponge and that is ALL!The reason why LFS shrimps are striving is because they don't add ferts to their tanks
I can't to stop, my plants consume fertz too much. It can be deadly for them. Even one day!Don't over think it, if a ADA fert is giving problem, stop using and monitor before confirming if it is really giving problems.
What your dosing? How much CO2 do you inject?
Amazonia. ADA Step 2 and ADA Brighty K.
But my Amano shrimps do not want to live in my aquarium...
You sure have alot of exclamation marks being used in your statements. If you didn't know, that punctuation is used to express ANGER. Ethically that is considered rude on this forum. If you don't agree, its fine.
You overdose on ADA ferts and your shrimps are dying, that is expected. Not only that you are assuming amanos and shrimps are living happily in ADA Amano display tanks, then you are seriously misled. Those are display tanks and gets constantly replace with shrimps and fishes when they die. There is no guarantee that the shrimps are in that tank for more than a few months. There is also no guarantee that the ADA team dose or overdose or have the same fert regime like yourself.
My friend is a ADA distributor here in Singapore, and his maintenance crew does not dose ferts every day due to shortage of man power and yet his 90x45x45 had moderate plant growth with minimum algae.
You might want to show some restraint next time when posting because you are not the only one with 10 years experience as a working aquarist here on this forum.
Potassium, once or twice a week. Iron and Nitrogen once a week. CO2 a long time (
about 1/2 year) about 1 bubble/2 secs. Out of topic, but I am slowly increasing
my CO2 and nutrients to increase mc growth.
How about your Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates reading?
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