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Thread: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

  1. #61
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

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    TTerry, sad to hear you're having algae problems. Just a reality check, once they are in your tank esp hair/thread algae and bga, they will always remain in your tank, even if you manage to eradicate them.

    It is just a false sense of accomplishment. From then on, you need to be on the ball in terms of water management, fert dosing and CO2 injection. One slip and these will appear. It will be a burden after a few episodes of outbreak and many will give up.

    I had these issues for 3 years and finally decided to tear down everything, nuke the tank and equipment until no living thing can survive, rescape and when it come to replanting, I adhere to strict quarantine process for plants before adding to substrate. Fish and shrimps also need to go through the quarantine process to prevent alga from the LFS to invade your tank not just parasites. Of course LFS will be happy for you to have these problems.

    Until now, 10 months later, the only algae that I have is the green spot algae. Don't mind that, as a sudden outbreak of GSA only means my pO4 dosing is lacking. It will always go away in 1-2 weeks after increasing PO4 dosage.

    Really enjoying this hobby after the tear down. Just as a escape plan in case those algae outbreak becomes a chore.

  2. #62
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by TTerry View Post
    Yes bro! The instruction is to dose 5 consecutive days, follow by 2 weeks no water change/ top up.. which isnt possible for me... so i overdose the blue exit sightly and will continue to top up water with 1ml of blue exit for the next 2 weeks..

    H2o2 works wonder, next day bga gone... HC also turn light brown. Only concern is those blind spot area, i actually bought api EM, but decided to try blue exit first.

    I was introduce ultralife slime remover, i read it have good review, but seaview only have red slime remover for reef, so i skip...
    Bro, for BGA, H202 is the best as the reaction kills the bga immediately and converts H202 to h20 - which is water. Just do large water change afterwards as the nuked bacteria will add waste in your water column. I usaully do 3 H202 treatments within a day or two of each treatment.

    Tried EM, it's effectiveness will diminish with subsequent outbreak and it's not cheap and it will impact your filter beneficial bacteria. Bought also the slime remover, did not use as I decided to teardown my tank but keep it as a backup that unitl today I have not used or no need use. But like I post earlier, it will come back from time to time based on how diligent you are.

    Mulm at substrate is the cause of my BGA then because of my high tech tank setup and large fish population and my non-existent plant/fish quarantine procedure. Now, my fish population is much less with same setup but regular vacuuming of substrate (1 month once). My tank is carpet full of MC. My algae crew is only oto. No BGA since day 1 with same equipments but new substrate.
    Last edited by greenie; 21st Oct 2017 at 13:36.

  3. #63
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by greenie View Post
    TTerry, sad to hear you're having algae problems. Just a reality check, once they are in your tank esp hair/thread algae and bga, they will always remain in your tank, even if you manage to eradicate them.

    It is just a false sense of accomplishment. From then on, you need to be on the ball in terms of water management, fert dosing and CO2 injection. One slip and these will appear. It will be a burden after a few episodes of outbreak and many will give up.

    I had these issues for 3 years and finally decided to tear down everything, nuke the tank and equipment until no living thing can survive, rescape and when it come to replanting, I adhere to strict quarantine process for plants before adding to substrate. Fish and shrimps also need to go through the quarantine process to prevent alga from the LFS to invade your tank not just parasites. Of course LFS will be happy for you to have these problems.

    Until now, 10 months later, the only algae that I have is the green spot algae. Don't mind that, as a sudden outbreak of GSA only means my pO4 dosing is lacking. It will always go away in 1-2 weeks after increasing PO4 dosage.

    Really enjoying this hobby after the tear down. Just as a escape plan in case those algae outbreak becomes a chore.
    Hi bro, yes. I agreed with you that bga wont be fully eliminate. It's just matter of making the condition good for my plants/ live stock and bad for bga to surface.

    I find all these issues interesting instead of a setback. From planaria/ seed shrimps then bga lol!

    when i first doing dry start, i already notice some of my soil is darker green color but not slimy, i thought was normal. Out of my suspicious, beside those bga, i nuke those soil with h2o2 too, and indeed they disappear too.

    Yes. Quanrantine really test patience. I should do it.

    I did and going to do some changes

    1) I lowered my lighting (monitoring my plants too)
    2) increase my nutrient dosing (i bought dry NKP to lower cost). Only N and K currently. Will wait till my blue exit treatment over/ tank stablize then start to dose P and micros.
    3) im changing filter after the 3 weeks treatment to improve circulation/ dead spot.

    Really dont like the idea of using antibiotic too

    Really good advises from you. Thanks a lot!

  4. #64
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    1 more week to go for my blue exit treatment.... i did a water change with top up of blue exit. Many HC died off due to H2o2 dosing, other plants doing ok. i feel AR. mini quite easy to grow but tropica.com labelled it as "medium", i trimmed quite afew times. Finally added 6 x glowlight danio ( i almost killed them from paraguard dip, next time i should add air stone during treatment)

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  5. #65
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Very good looking tank now bro! Well done!


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  6. #66
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by jackychun View Post
    Very good looking tank now bro! Well done!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks bro. Thanks to your reminder of my lighting. i kept thinking 1 light fixture not strong enough because my dry start was slow when i uses my RGB only, but i forgot that PAR is a lot higher when tank is flooded... Lesser hair algae now..

    Hope this will improve my algae issue

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  7. #67
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Very good looking tank now bro! Well done!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  8. #68
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Hi greenie, po4 meaning phosphate? May i know what brand and where you get it?

    Quote Originally Posted by greenie View Post
    TTerry, sad to hear you're having algae problems. Just a reality check, once they are in your tank esp hair/thread algae and bga, they will always remain in your tank, even if you manage to eradicate them.

    It is just a false sense of accomplishment. From then on, you need to be on the ball in terms of water management, fert dosing and CO2 injection. One slip and these will appear. It will be a burden after a few episodes of outbreak and many will give up.

    I had these issues for 3 years and finally decided to tear down everything, nuke the tank and equipment until no living thing can survive, rescape and when it come to replanting, I adhere to strict quarantine process for plants before adding to substrate. Fish and shrimps also need to go through the quarantine process to prevent alga from the LFS to invade your tank not just parasites. Of course LFS will be happy for you to have these problems.

    Until now, 10 months later, the only algae that I have is the green spot algae. Don't mind that, as a sudden outbreak of GSA only means my pO4 dosing is lacking. It will always go away in 1-2 weeks after increasing PO4 dosage.

    Really enjoying this hobby after the tear down. Just as a escape plan in case those algae outbreak becomes a chore.

  9. #69
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Btw, this is my nitrate test reading for the passed 3 weeks after my 3 days heavy dosing of nitrate... There were many debates about high nitrate against live stock especially shrimps. My shrimps and fishes so far doing ok, no sign of stress yet.

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  10. #70
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Top view during maintenance After 2 weeks of BGA treatment with easylife blu-exit, BGA immediately grow back. Still adjusting my tank balance... Think i will buy bigger bottle of H2o2......

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  11. #71
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    No more hair algae on my plants or rocks. But the moment i increases the intensity of my lighting by 1 level, the hair algae on the glass appears.


    Nutrient dosing

    N - 4ppm, P - 0.5ppm, K - 1.5ppm (3X per week)

    Seachem micro - 5ml, Fe - 0.2ppm (3X per week)

    Mgs04 - half TSP after water change


    Co2- currently at about 2.7 BPS, how much i wish to increase Co2 injection, but my Ottos and some shrimps already show sign of inactive and hiding under my HC carpet..


    And i added 5 x CRS! 1 died, 4 of them survived the first week...

  12. #72

    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by TTerry View Post
    Top view during maintenance After 2 weeks of BGA treatment with easylife blu-exit, BGA immediately grow back. Still adjusting my tank balance... Think i will buy bigger bottle of H2o2......

    Looks amazing from the top. Like a Dutch style tank with all the plants clearly separated. Can we see what the tank looks like now from the front?
    My Current Journals: Nano Iwagumi Tank | Nano Shrimp Tank

    My name is Rezdwan Hamid but you can call me Wan.

  13. #73
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Thanks bro, will update over the weekend.

    to date, my CRS still survive


    I tried tiger shrimps.... all died within 2 days..... I thought they were more forgiving....

  14. #74
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Color contrast so much different without the RGB light... Ar mini grew quite fast, but bottom part of the AR. mini not doing well, will be doing a deep pruning this weekend. Probably gona leave the HC as it is till H2o2 spot dosing over... If i position my lily pipe at certain water level, it will constantly mist O2 into the tank, i guess it may help me to increase my CO2 level.

    After increasing my Po4 dosing, So far haven't seen any GSA on my glass

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  15. #75
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Hello Terry,

    You actually need not sell the Chihiros RGB, because your tank height is 45cm compared to the normal 2FT around 35cm. 0.36 watt per LED is a good PAR led for this height; same as mine. You have good plant growth from start and things should start balancing out by itself. Set Chihiros A series 1- level power and RGB 3- level power.

    RGB has better Color Index than the A series, so can keep. Until of course Ryan from EOA brings in the dimmers for Twinstar, which I highly doubt it.

  16. #76
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Hi torque, make sense... but already sold...

    i really like the RGB, i tried adjust the stand to 10cm high (barely cover my whole tank) at this height my rotala roundifolia also wont grow.... so i thought my prority should be keeping the plants healthy, thats y i changed to 1 set of A series. And u caught me haha! Im actually thinking to get the twinstar LED but only if i can increase my co2 injection without stressing my livestocks.... so i tot i should keep A series since its higher PAR and can be adjusted. Now you mentioned, i kind of regret selling off

    Currently my concern is the BGA, i believed sooner or later, my HC carpet will be overrun by BGA.... using h2o2, will kill all my HC... as per greenie, i did mostly all like increase nitrate, flow and so on... still so fast appear...

  17. #77
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by TTerry View Post
    Hi torque, make sense... but already sold...

    i really like the RGB, i tried adjust the stand to 10cm high (barely cover my whole tank) at this height my rotala roundifolia also wont grow.... so i thought my prority should be keeping the plants healthy, thats y i changed to 1 set of A series. And u caught me haha! Im actually thinking to get the twinstar LED but only if i can increase my co2 injection without stressing my livestocks.... so i tot i should keep A series since its higher PAR and can be adjusted. Now you mentioned, i kind of regret selling off

    Currently my concern is the BGA, i believed sooner or later, my HC carpet will be overrun by BGA.... using h2o2, will kill all my HC... as per greenie, i did mostly all like increase nitrate, flow and so on... still so fast appear...
    Both our tanks all 45cm width/depth and also 45cm in height, so at least need 2 sets of LED with combine width of 15-18cm, so light spread will be around 120 degrees, with slight light overflow behind so back plants can grow straight up instead of curl towards when growing up mid way.

    The Chihiros RGB no need to lift to at 10cm more in height as it's PAR is lower than the A series in general.

    You tank setup can use Twinstar, but maybe ask Ryan (EOA) to see if they are bringing in the dimmer for Twinstar first, if more people ask, maybe he will do it.

    BGA is one of the hardest algae to remove, because it will always come back even if you have everything balanced. The only way is to use anti biotics and then use RO water (with bacteria removal filtration). After which, all your plants, fish and shrimps from LFS all have to be quarantine before introducing into your display tank.

    I was watering my plants outside the other day and while repotting, all of the soil have that smell of BGA indicating a problem with our waters.

  18. #78
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    i lifted my a series at 13cm high from tank and running at level 5 (i tried 6 but algae came out fast...).

    I had been searching online for the twinstar dimmer, only see people talk about it, but cant find any online shop selling. I wonder if chihiros's dimmer or any other generic dimmer can do the job. The twinstar Sseries looks great and wide, but it stated as super bright LED. Think the PAR mustbe high, and SP series is hanging type.

    Im using tap water only..... i increased my lighting to level 6, within few days bga climb up to my glass... read that some people experienced BGA staying under the substrate only. Hopefully i can find the sweet spot for my tank balance. API antibiotic will be my next resort...

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