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Thread: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

  1. #61
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

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    Quote Originally Posted by jackychun View Post
    Very good looking tank now bro! Well done!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks bro. Thanks to your reminder of my lighting. i kept thinking 1 light fixture not strong enough because my dry start was slow when i uses my RGB only, but i forgot that PAR is a lot higher when tank is flooded... Lesser hair algae now..

    Hope this will improve my algae issue

    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #62
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Very good looking tank now bro! Well done!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #63
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Hi greenie, po4 meaning phosphate? May i know what brand and where you get it?

    Quote Originally Posted by greenie View Post
    TTerry, sad to hear you're having algae problems. Just a reality check, once they are in your tank esp hair/thread algae and bga, they will always remain in your tank, even if you manage to eradicate them.

    It is just a false sense of accomplishment. From then on, you need to be on the ball in terms of water management, fert dosing and CO2 injection. One slip and these will appear. It will be a burden after a few episodes of outbreak and many will give up.

    I had these issues for 3 years and finally decided to tear down everything, nuke the tank and equipment until no living thing can survive, rescape and when it come to replanting, I adhere to strict quarantine process for plants before adding to substrate. Fish and shrimps also need to go through the quarantine process to prevent alga from the LFS to invade your tank not just parasites. Of course LFS will be happy for you to have these problems.

    Until now, 10 months later, the only algae that I have is the green spot algae. Don't mind that, as a sudden outbreak of GSA only means my pO4 dosing is lacking. It will always go away in 1-2 weeks after increasing PO4 dosage.

    Really enjoying this hobby after the tear down. Just as a escape plan in case those algae outbreak becomes a chore.

  4. #64
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Btw, this is my nitrate test reading for the passed 3 weeks after my 3 days heavy dosing of nitrate... There were many debates about high nitrate against live stock especially shrimps. My shrimps and fishes so far doing ok, no sign of stress yet.

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  5. #65
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Top view during maintenance After 2 weeks of BGA treatment with easylife blu-exit, BGA immediately grow back. Still adjusting my tank balance... Think i will buy bigger bottle of H2o2......

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  6. #66
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    No more hair algae on my plants or rocks. But the moment i increases the intensity of my lighting by 1 level, the hair algae on the glass appears.


    Nutrient dosing

    N - 4ppm, P - 0.5ppm, K - 1.5ppm (3X per week)

    Seachem micro - 5ml, Fe - 0.2ppm (3X per week)

    Mgs04 - half TSP after water change


    Co2- currently at about 2.7 BPS, how much i wish to increase Co2 injection, but my Ottos and some shrimps already show sign of inactive and hiding under my HC carpet..


    And i added 5 x CRS! 1 died, 4 of them survived the first week...

  7. #67

    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by TTerry View Post
    Top view during maintenance After 2 weeks of BGA treatment with easylife blu-exit, BGA immediately grow back. Still adjusting my tank balance... Think i will buy bigger bottle of H2o2......

    Looks amazing from the top. Like a Dutch style tank with all the plants clearly separated. Can we see what the tank looks like now from the front?

  8. #68
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Thanks bro, will update over the weekend.

    to date, my CRS still survive


    I tried tiger shrimps.... all died within 2 days..... I thought they were more forgiving....

  9. #69
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Color contrast so much different without the RGB light... Ar mini grew quite fast, but bottom part of the AR. mini not doing well, will be doing a deep pruning this weekend. Probably gona leave the HC as it is till H2o2 spot dosing over... If i position my lily pipe at certain water level, it will constantly mist O2 into the tank, i guess it may help me to increase my CO2 level.

    After increasing my Po4 dosing, So far haven't seen any GSA on my glass

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  10. #70
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Hello Terry,

    You actually need not sell the Chihiros RGB, because your tank height is 45cm compared to the normal 2FT around 35cm. 0.36 watt per LED is a good PAR led for this height; same as mine. You have good plant growth from start and things should start balancing out by itself. Set Chihiros A series 1- level power and RGB 3- level power.

    RGB has better Color Index than the A series, so can keep. Until of course Ryan from EOA brings in the dimmers for Twinstar, which I highly doubt it.

  11. #71
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Hi torque, make sense... but already sold...

    i really like the RGB, i tried adjust the stand to 10cm high (barely cover my whole tank) at this height my rotala roundifolia also wont grow.... so i thought my prority should be keeping the plants healthy, thats y i changed to 1 set of A series. And u caught me haha! Im actually thinking to get the twinstar LED but only if i can increase my co2 injection without stressing my livestocks.... so i tot i should keep A series since its higher PAR and can be adjusted. Now you mentioned, i kind of regret selling off

    Currently my concern is the BGA, i believed sooner or later, my HC carpet will be overrun by BGA.... using h2o2, will kill all my HC... as per greenie, i did mostly all like increase nitrate, flow and so on... still so fast appear...

  12. #72
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by TTerry View Post
    Hi torque, make sense... but already sold...

    i really like the RGB, i tried adjust the stand to 10cm high (barely cover my whole tank) at this height my rotala roundifolia also wont grow.... so i thought my prority should be keeping the plants healthy, thats y i changed to 1 set of A series. And u caught me haha! Im actually thinking to get the twinstar LED but only if i can increase my co2 injection without stressing my livestocks.... so i tot i should keep A series since its higher PAR and can be adjusted. Now you mentioned, i kind of regret selling off

    Currently my concern is the BGA, i believed sooner or later, my HC carpet will be overrun by BGA.... using h2o2, will kill all my HC... as per greenie, i did mostly all like increase nitrate, flow and so on... still so fast appear...
    Both our tanks all 45cm width/depth and also 45cm in height, so at least need 2 sets of LED with combine width of 15-18cm, so light spread will be around 120 degrees, with slight light overflow behind so back plants can grow straight up instead of curl towards when growing up mid way.

    The Chihiros RGB no need to lift to at 10cm more in height as it's PAR is lower than the A series in general.

    You tank setup can use Twinstar, but maybe ask Ryan (EOA) to see if they are bringing in the dimmer for Twinstar first, if more people ask, maybe he will do it.

    BGA is one of the hardest algae to remove, because it will always come back even if you have everything balanced. The only way is to use anti biotics and then use RO water (with bacteria removal filtration). After which, all your plants, fish and shrimps from LFS all have to be quarantine before introducing into your display tank.

    I was watering my plants outside the other day and while repotting, all of the soil have that smell of BGA indicating a problem with our waters.

  13. #73
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    i lifted my a series at 13cm high from tank and running at level 5 (i tried 6 but algae came out fast...).

    I had been searching online for the twinstar dimmer, only see people talk about it, but cant find any online shop selling. I wonder if chihiros's dimmer or any other generic dimmer can do the job. The twinstar Sseries looks great and wide, but it stated as super bright LED. Think the PAR mustbe high, and SP series is hanging type.

    Im using tap water only..... i increased my lighting to level 6, within few days bga climb up to my glass... read that some people experienced BGA staying under the substrate only. Hopefully i can find the sweet spot for my tank balance. API antibiotic will be my next resort...

  14. #74

    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by TTerry View Post
    i lifted my a series at 13cm high from tank and running at level 5 (i tried 6 but algae came out fast...).

    I had been searching online for the twinstar dimmer, only see people talk about it, but cant find any online shop selling. I wonder if chihiros's dimmer or any other generic dimmer can do the job. The twinstar Sseries looks great and wide, but it stated as super bright LED. Think the PAR mustbe high, and SP series is hanging type.

    Im using tap water only..... i increased my lighting to level 6, within few days bga climb up to my glass... read that some people experienced BGA staying under the substrate only. Hopefully i can find the sweet spot for my tank balance. API antibiotic will be my next resort...
    Will you be trying the API E.M. ERYTHROMYCIN POWDER to get rid of the BGA?

    EO used the Boyd Chemiclean to get rid of cyanobacteria in one of their tanks.

    Curious to know if it works.

  15. #75
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by NanoScaper View Post
    Will you be trying the API E.M. ERYTHROMYCIN POWDER to get rid of the BGA?

    EO used the Boyd Chemiclean to get rid of cyanobacteria in one of their tanks.

    Curious to know if it works.
    Whether chemiclean or erythromycin works is kinda of subjective. After using it in your tank and BGA stop appearing for 3 months, can you safely said it works? What if it re-appeared under the substrate after the 4th month? Does it also mean it worked 3 months and doesn't on the 4th?

    Anti biotics only works effectively if you have an empty tank. If you have soil, plant materials, filters, pipes, sponges, biomedia, then it's obvious that some of these bacteria will survive and re-surface again when there are problems. Who knows, you may even develop a strain of bacteria that has resistance to erythromycin.

  16. #76
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    I bought a set of twinstar E series and tried the dimmer. IT WORKS

  17. #77
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by TTerry View Post
    I bought a set of twinstar E series and tried the dimmer. IT WORKS
    It fits the Chihiros dimmer? any flickering at power level 1 and 2?

  18. #78
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Double post

  19. #79
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    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Yes, chihiros dimmer, one side of the connector is abit tighter. Visually i cant really see flickering, only if uses camera directly on the light itself you will see black lines travels, same as Chihiros rgb. Any 12v, >3A dimmer should work the same.

    Do note twinstar e600 is "tight fit" on 8mm tank

  20. #80

    Re: My first 120L aquascape with dry start HC

    Quote Originally Posted by TTerry View Post
    Yes, chihiros dimmer, one side of the connector is abit tighter. Visually i cant really see flickering, only if uses camera directly on the light itself you will see black lines travels, same as Chihiros rgb. Any 12v, >3A dimmer should work the same.

    Do note twinstar e600 is "tight fit" on 8mm tank
    Thanks for sharing this, TTerry. I've been eyeing the Twinstar E or S series LED lights but feedback about the S series is that it may be too bright. If I do get it, I hope the dimmer works on it too.

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