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Thread: Odyssea Evo 24 led

  1. #1
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    Odyssea Evo 24 led

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    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...D)-Plant-White

    Hi all,

    I am currently using an Odyssea Evo 24 led (16 x 3w) on my 60x30x36 tank. I suspect the lighting is too intensive as the above recommends the light for tall tank and also because my plants, especially my tripartita, have burnt marks around the edges of its leaves. My repens and mini AR are not doing very well either. I inject Co2 at 5bps and my lights are on for 6 hours, dosing seachem macro and micro nutrients twice a week.

    Question is should i change my LED to a twinstar 600E?

    Thanks.

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Quote Originally Posted by limpts View Post
    http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...D)-Plant-White

    Hi all,

    I am currently using an Odyssea Evo 24 led (16 x 3w) on my 60x30x36 tank. I suspect the lighting is too intensive as the above recommends the light for tall tank and also because my plants, especially my tripartita, have burnt marks around the edges of its leaves. My repens and mini AR are not doing very well either. I inject Co2 at 5bps and my lights are on for 6 hours, dosing seachem macro and micro nutrients twice a week.

    Question is should i change my LED to a twinstar 600E?

    Thanks.
    Hi. Your current light is 48w power. Your tank volume is 60 liter or 15 gallon. This gives you are 3.2w per gallon illumination.

    Led is more efficient in power than fluorescence. Their lens also allow for more light penetrating the bottom. One more factor is you tank is only 36cm tall. And using the rough approxinate rule of 2w per gallon led light = high light.

    The conclusion is your tank is having alot of light! So yes your suspicion is right.

    Your carpet plant tripartita only needs medium light which is 1.4w per gallon of led light. So the burn mark around the edges may be due to burn from the bright light.

    Your mini Ar and repens are also medium light plant. So it is not surprising that they are also affected like the tripartita.

    Switching to twinstar 600e gives you 33w led light. This is 2.2w per gallon. That is still on the high side.

    You can give it a try or you might want to consider something of 21 watt lighting.

    The watt per gallon is a rough approximation for a convenient way to select lighting. Alot depends on actual product and your tan setup.


    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Thank you ljohn78! Do you have any recommendations on the LED? I plan to have monto carlo and glosso too.

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Quote Originally Posted by limpts View Post
    Thank you ljohn78! Do you have any recommendations on the LED? I plan to have monto carlo and glosso too.
    Hi. Are you trying out other types of carpet plant? Monte carlo is medium light like your current existing plants and will be more compatible in light requirement.

    Glosso needs very high light like the current light you own.

    Having said that, if you want glosso, you can keep current light and switch out all your current plant in your tank.

    If you want to keep current plant and MC, you can switch to something else.

    Light recommendation totally depends on your budget. Value lights from beamswork to quality lights like finnex or kessil.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Hi,

    I went through some digging and found the PAR value for your Odyssea Evo 24 led (16 x 3w) at the depth of 36cm depth for your tank to be value of 140. That is plenty high for medium light requirement plant for sure.

    By the way, low light PAR is 10 - 30, medium light PAR is 30 - 80 and high light PAR is 80 - 120.

    So this is a double confirmation using both watt per gallon and PAR values, that your tank is just too BRIGHT!

    The twinstar 600E gave a PAR value of 50 at 36cm depth which is of medium light PAR value. So yes, you can go for it. (P.S. the twinstar has a very tall support stand which leads to lost of light to air and surrounding space. This tall stand is unusal and result in the PAR value to deviate quite far from the watt per gallon calculation method. The Odyssea however, has a much shorter legs like most normal lights.)

    Lastly, i was thinking, maybe you can just raise the height of your current Odyssea to reduce PAR if you do not want to change light fixture for switching to Glosso in the future.

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Thank you so much for your time and effort! Greatly appreciated.

    But i googled and quote:

    Twinstar E Series
    60cm is 86-146 PAR at the substrate in an 60P ADA tank. 90cm is 119-138 PAR at the substrate in a 90P ADA tank.

    Changing my thoughts on Twinstar, might go for a UP Z series.

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Quote Originally Posted by ljohn78 View Post
    Hi,

    I went through some digging and found the PAR value for your Odyssea Evo 24 led (16 x 3w) at the depth of 36cm depth for your tank to be value of 140. That is plenty high for medium light requirement plant for sure.

    By the way, low light PAR is 10 - 30, medium light PAR is 30 - 80 and high light PAR is 80 - 120.
    .
    35 - 50 mmol per square inch of PAR would be considered medium light. Not sure where you got the 70 - 150 mmol per square inch numbers from. But it's good to see you are stepping up your game. Thanks.

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Quote Originally Posted by limpts View Post
    Thank you so much for your time and effort! Greatly appreciated.

    But i googled and quote:

    Twinstar E Series
    60cm is 86-146 PAR at the substrate in an 60P ADA tank. 90cm is 119-138 PAR at the substrate in a 90P ADA tank.

    Changing my thoughts on Twinstar, might go for a UP Z series.
    Yes, this is more accurate. I did a PAR test with one of the lights and shared the PAR reading with Lawrence from EOA. Twinstar is high light. Not medium. That why most iwagumi scape at Aquascaping thread having problems with the light, except Jacky's tank who managed to balance out stem + slow growing plants.

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Quote Originally Posted by torque6 View Post
    35 - 50 mmol per square inch of PAR would be considered medium light. Not sure where you got the 70 - 150 mmol per square inch numbers from. But it's good to see you are stepping up your game. Thanks.
    1.0 Not sure how you got the 35- 50 PAR as medium light from. But according to The Aquarium Guide by Adam Edmond, PAR of 30 - 80 are considered as medium light. However, i have to add that there is NO CONSENSUS on what constitute PAR for low, medium and high light. Every aquarist definitions are different and are bound to change from time to time.

    2.0 Using PAR is hardly "stepping up your game". If you understand lighting, there are many factors to consider when choosing the optimum light for your aquarium.

    2.1 If you have attended photometry and photosynthesis class in school, you will know that other than PAR, there is also PUR, PPFD, PAS, RQE, spectrograms, Depth penetration, Photosynthetic pigments (chlorophyll A, B, Carotenoids and Phycobilins) of the plant, algae and bacteria inhabitant etc all needed to carefully considered in order to choose the optimum lighting.

    2.2 I am not saying PAR is not important. I am saying it is a common mistunderstanding by alot of hobbyist (even experienced ones) that PAR is a panacea when it comes to consideration of suitable lighting. PAR is merely a good starting point for lighting choice and it is a rough approximation at best.

    2.3 Another way PAR is deceptive is due to the way Light is casted into the bottom of the tank aka footprint. The PAR value is usually not consistent across the entire footprint. By following only 1 PAR value from the manufacturer or someone online is unfair. TO see the whole PAR picture, you need to consider spectrum, total footprint and consistency of the footprint.

    3.0 Having said the above, it is obvious that for an average aquarist (especially beginners), a simple act of choosing the right light fixtures can quickly balloon into an unsurmountable task! Therefore, considering this human factor, i usually advocate the easiest method to judge the lighting condition in a tank using a modified watt per gallon rating (if insufficient information is given) and then PAR (if more data is given by OP). The only way lighting conditions can be perfected is to look at point
    2.1 above.

    3.1 That is why even after choosing the "right" lights, there is still a margin of tweaking to be done in order to achieve a balanced tank.

    Thanks.

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led



    Hi, is this LED suitable for my tank? It was recommended by a LFS uncle but i cant find any info on the internet except:

    https://sg.carousell.com/p/aquarium-...-600-56863020/

    Judging by its watts, stated by the package, working out to be 0.32w per litre, it should be ok?

    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Re: Odyssea Evo 24 led

    Quote Originally Posted by limpts View Post


    Hi, is this LED suitable for my tank? It was recommended by a LFS uncle but i cant find any info on the internet except:

    https://sg.carousell.com/p/aquarium-...-600-56863020/

    Judging by its watts, stated by the package, working out to be 0.32w per litre, it should be ok?

    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hi. I also cant find any info on the light. So we have to go down to the simplest method of watt per gallon. Works out to be 1.25 which is about medium light. I would say it is ok.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Odyssea Evo 24 led

    thanks alot, again!


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