Same Plant Different Condition

[cbong]

I have planted some Blyxa japonica of the same stock in two different tanks, with different conditions. My conclusion is that the one that is cooler (26C) would produce softer looking and lighter toned w/red leaves:

The ones that are in hotter condition (28C) tends to give larger and brighter green leaves. They look stiffer too:


Temp do make a big difference to conditions of plants

[|squee|]

Are all other factors constant? I.E. substrate type, fertilisation routine and amount, lights, C02?

[PeterGwee]

While all plants do better with lower temperatures, your conclusion on the health and colours has no basis as the CO2/Macros/Micros might not be the same. NO3 level plays more of a role in reds...

Regards
Peter Gwee

[bclee]

I too think that low N in the first tank might have caused the smaller plant with reddish & soft leaves.

BC

[cbong]

While all plants do better with lower temperatures, your conclusion on the health and colours has no basis as the CO2/Macros/Micros might not be the same. NO3 level plays more of a role in reds...

Regards
Peter Gwee

I have used the same liquid fert Lushgro, NO3, PO4 etc dosing for both tanks weekly. The difference is that one tank uses lapis / JBJ basefert whilst the other uses Seachem Flourite.

I came to the conclusion of temp as the tank in my office with lapis / JBJ basefert under aircon temp is also showing the same condition:

[lorba]

For me, I am a firm believer that strong lights gives you very red plant. You can never get close to redness without strong lights, but you can get very red one with normal liquid fert with intense light shining on the plant.

The picture went through a little photoshop for contrast, but the redness is exactly what I see with my eyes. Plants are in the top 0-10cm from surface downwards with a 36W PL over it. The 10-20cm below surface has very pale yellowish to green growth.



I also have rotala routunfolia in a 60x45x45cm tank. Those under the 36WPL are fiery red while those at the corner not getting the full shiny are pale green. I only add some liquid fert occassionally. 5 small pencil fishes inside.


Most stem plants that I had are also greenish until they reach the 0-10cm region. I am thinking that if I use a 150W MH for my 3x1.5x1.5, I should have less problem getting red plants.

[PeterGwee]

You would need to isolate the variables via calibrated test kits for the macros (micros are fine for a given amount off a certain volume of water) and of course the critical CO2 to make a concrete conclusion or else the results are doubtful.

Regards
Peter Gwee