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Thread: pressurised co2

  1. #1
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    pressurised co2

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    would like to know how such a system is connected.
    1) co2 tank
    2) pressure gauge connected to co2 tank
    3) needle valve
    4) diffuser

    where is the solenoid connected, between pressure gauge and needle valve?
    what is the 'low side' pressure, the outlet pressure?
    thomas liew

  2. #2
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    Have you gotten your co2?

    Normally the pressure gauge, needle valve, solenoid are all in 1 unit as a Regulator. Just attach the regulator to the co2 tank, connect the hose to the diffuser and plug in the power cord for the solenoid. Very straight forward.
    Cheers!!

    Sherwin Choo
    [email protected]

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    no yet.

    thinking whether i can diy.
    have a solenoid in office with 1 in 2 outlet pneumatic valve.
    just wondering if i can use it.
    thanks.

    what's the pressure after the needle valve?
    less than 10 bar/~140psi?
    thomas liew

  4. #4
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    Needle pressure output should be less than 1 bar.

    My advice. Don't DIY.... remember the pressure we hadling is about 80 bars. It's quite risky unless you absolutely know what you're doing.
    Cheers!!

    Sherwin Choo
    [email protected]

  5. #5
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    me thinking of diy the solenoid part only.
    tank, pressure gauge, main valve and needle valve still have to buy.
    thomas liew

  6. #6
    Just remember not to get the 'UP' brand regulator that cost $30. It does not reduce the pressure. What it does is only to regulate the flow. If you put a soleniod after that. The tube will burst is the valve is close. If you want to DIY, buy a regulator that reduce the pressure to 1bar(20 psi) then add the soleniod valve and then the needle (flow control) valve.

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    Smallfry,
    Don't understand.... what's the difference between reducing the pressure and regulating the flow. The regulator normally reduces the pressure by regulating the flow. Correct me if I'm wrong ok.....

    Tawauboy,
    the solenoid part can be DIYed. The pressure is small on the reg output line. You don't really need another needle valve as the regulator already comes with one. However, the connection between the regulator and the solenoid valve MUST be strong enuf cos the pressure when the solenoid closes is very high. Try not the use hoses... direct connect with threaded adapters (which is very hard to do).
    Cheers!!

    Sherwin Choo
    [email protected]

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    ----------------
    On 5/29/2002 6:11:50 AM

    Just remember not to get the 'UP' brand regulator that cost $30. It does not reduce the pressure. What it does is only to regulate the flow. If you put a soleniod after that. The tube will burst is the valve is close. If you want to DIY, buy a regulator that reduce the pressure to 1bar(20 psi) then add the soleniod valve and then the needle (flow control) valve.
    ----------------
    smallfry: change yr tubing to those CO2 tubing. (black or blue ones)

  9. #9
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    hi,
    the regulator that we commonly call is actually the pressure regulator.
    the needle valve is the flow or speed regulator.
    pressure and flow are different and they are synonymous to voltage and current in the electrical domain.

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    tawauboy,
    should be able to diy. the flow should be
    cylinder -> pressure regulator -> solenoid valve -> needle valve.
    use rigid threaded connections all the way to the needle valve.

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    sherwin,

    thanks
    am looking at pneumatic tubing.
    thomas liew

  12. #12
    ----------------
    On 5/29/2002 10:16:01 AM

    Smallfry,
    Don't understand.... what's the difference between reducing the pressure and regulating the flow. The regulator normally reduces the pressure by regulating the flow. Correct me if I'm wrong ok.....
    ----------------
    Regulating pressure mean that if you set the regulator at 20 psi, it will reduce the CO2 tank pressure from 1000 psi to 20 psi , but the flow can be slow or fast depend on your flow control(needle vavle) setting. By regulating the flow, the pressure is still the same after the CO2 tank. e.g before flow control 1000 psi ---> after flow control still 1000 psi. But the flow can be fast or slow.

    If you a soleniod valve (closed) after the flow control valve with slow flow, the pressure will slowly build up until the tube burst. If it a pressure regulator, the pressure will remain the same. And as long the tube can hold the 20 psi, then it is safe.

    Simon,

    I'm using pneumatic tubing.

  13. #13
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    last time when i first started i use the better quality tubes which is the pneumatic ones but i find that normal tubings will do the job. You can just chance it when it wears off moreover it's cheaper in the long run. get the whole tubing cost only $6.50 can use for quite a while.

    For the normal tubings they can last up to 8 mths.More over it's really better to chance the tubings occasionally. Wear and tear sure occurs no matter what kind of tubing you using so a periodic change will be a good practise too.
    Cheers!

    Benetay

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    On 5/29/2002 12:10:23 PM

    tawauboy,
    should be able to diy. the flow should be
    cylinder -> pressure regulator -> solenoid valve -> needle valve.
    use rigid threaded connections all the way to the needle valve.

    ----------------
    mok, thanks for info.
    thomas liew

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    bene,

    there is no moving part so there should be no wear related problems.
    what are normal tubings?

    i have seen detached pneumatic pipe leaking high pressure air.
    very dangerous when the pipe whips all over the place.
    like a cobra launching an attack.
    thomas liew

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    ----------------
    On 5/29/2002 10:02:44 PM

    last time when i first started i use the better quality tubes which is the pneumatic ones but i find that normal tubings will do the job. You can just chance it when it wears off moreover it's cheaper in the long run. get the whole tubing cost only $6.50 can use for quite a while.

    For the normal tubings they can last up to 8 mths.More over it's really better to chance the tubings occasionally. Wear and tear sure occurs no matter what kind of tubing you using so a periodic change will be a good practise too.
    ----------------
    i beg to differ. polyurethane tubing doesn't deteriorate like the normal airline sold in LFS. it doesn't collapse as easily when bent or twisted and it's not porous. the same is used in industrial pneumatic applications. i'm pretty sure they can last for many good years. i've been using mine for >3 yrs and they were not even new when i got them. they were recycled from old pneumatic projects.

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    hmm...thanks for correcting me..but i still like to change them.
    Cheers!

    Benetay

  18. #18
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    normal tubing can only span up to 1m (read some where) I had my burst in my face becoz I forgotten to close the knob when I hook the system up

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    how careless of you...[]
    Cheers!

    Benetay

  20. #20
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    pneumatic tubing isn't that expensive
    teck siong huat at kelantan lane ave 2 has pneumatic tubing for i think $1 per m, all colours, will fit our co2 systems, but you gotta bring down a sample to get the ID (internal diameter) correct

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