Roger that JC.
alamak... I thot clam should open its mouth wide wide, and the mantle (thot called lips) stick out more the better...
Will shift it upstairs...
btw, it sticks its base to the rock liao. how to move it up?
An eg. of Macro Skimmer. Not sure of price tot.
http://www.aqua-macro.com/skimmer-b.htm
Cheers
JC
Our Earth Project:
http://projectpowerplant.com/blog/
Roger that JC.
alamak... I thot clam should open its mouth wide wide, and the mantle (thot called lips) stick out more the better...
Will shift it upstairs...
btw, it sticks its base to the rock liao. how to move it up?
Imo, if its attached. Dun remove it. Are u able to move rock?
JC
Our Earth Project:
http://projectpowerplant.com/blog/
tak boleh... rock too big.
If forced it, the base would be injured.
If leave it, its mouth open wide wide, mantle sticks out quite a fair bit...
Seems like do or dun do oso chia lart...
how..?
Try positioning ur powerhead at its base. Hopefully, it will detach itself.
Cheers
JC
Our Earth Project:
http://projectpowerplant.com/blog/
thanks peter!Originally Posted by d2hpeter
for lighting i am not sure what's ideal, maybe JC can share with us.
my lighting is definitely not enough, that's why i would like to change to 4x T5 tubes, 2 blue 2 white, then should be just barely enough for my FOWLRASSC tank.
Fish Only With Live Rocks And Some Simple Corals hehehe...
Roger... thanks!Originally Posted by solonavi
Hi guys, making a move to lavender now...
got ship coming in today...
if any of you oso heading there, can give me a call @ 93370070
can meet up & lim kopi there
ciao guys...!
The general believe is as much as u can provide. Artifical lightings can nvr replace our holy sun. The trick is get the best light u can afford for ur tank and "play" with the positioning of ur coral. Some coral luv direct lights (SPS), some shaded (mushroom).Originally Posted by Darylyap
Check out this link for more info on lights.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/se...ting/index.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...03/feature.htm
Cheers
JC
Our Earth Project:
http://projectpowerplant.com/blog/
ya, good thinking.Originally Posted by solonavi
I am actually lookin at The Coralife Aqualight 150 watt HQI Pendant or the clip-on type. But 150 looks a bit scary for the small tank that i gonna start.
Would it be ok to reduce lighting duration to compensate the high power/gal?
oh ya, another thing to consult the guru. This HOT type of skimmers, would the built-in pump able to self-prime if there is any AC power interruption. I hv had bad experience with those HOT filters on my FW tanks previously. The flow could not be re-establised after the AC power resumed.
There are no guru here. Just sharing of knowledge.
I dun recommend reducing the duration cos the zooxanthellae in the coral need to do photesynthesis thus providing energy to the coral.
Not sure of prizm but Macro & AquaC type need u to place the pump in the tank itself thus self-primming is not an issue. Problem u have an un-sightly pump in display if not using a sump.
JC
Our Earth Project:
http://projectpowerplant.com/blog/
I thot i just saw [at the aqua-c site] that the Remora is hanging outside of the tank?Originally Posted by solonavi
Ya but the pump has to be inside. See this,
http://www.proteinskimmer.com/products/Urchin.htm
JC
Our Earth Project:
http://projectpowerplant.com/blog/
Ah...I see. Sorry, didn't read properly. thanks for enlightenment.Originally Posted by solonavi
Ya, this is definitely more reliable.
btw, is it available at the usual lmfs and roughly how much?
Hi peter, you may want to consider the power consumption of each equipment attached to the tank, if you are not using a chiller.
Every watt will slowly heat up the water.
My ehiem canister is 25W, protein skimmer w/o UV is 10W, undergravel powerhead approx 15W, haven't count the lighting yet
I am getting ard 27 deg with 1 AC fan 24/7.
JC, if i'm not wrong, were yo using 2 AC fans and able to get 26 deg?
Done that tonight liao, hopefully it will detach... thanks for idea!Originally Posted by solonavi
you hv got a pt there Daryl, thanks for the reminder.Originally Posted by Darylyap
My experimenting pico tank is in my office, air-con, so i guess should be alright to hv a small power head in it. Temp is ard 26degC for my previous FW but for SW with different density might hv different heat transfer, will monitor the steadystate temp.
Got a question, rightnow am using about 4.5W/gal of lighting [existing hood w a 18W PL] is this ok for the run-in period? might change to a blue-white combination to hv a better color hue.
got another doubt.
there are 4 metallic screws in the light hood holding a acryllic cover over the lights. For my previous FW use there wasnt any rust on it. would there be a corrosion problem with SW? and anyway of preventing rust dropping into the water if it does corrode? can i put an aluminium tape over it?
for the MarineEnvironment Salt that i am using, there is a separate bottle that is included in the bag that contain additional elements.
I had actually used only a third of the salt as my tank is small.
For the liquid in the bottle, should i add all of them or in proportion with the amount of salt used.
Try using all power effient equipment. Energy saving is one thing but the main point is it add less heat. A pump I luv is from Maxijet. Small, high flow and power efficient. Used it as wavemaker and to run my remorapro b4.Originally Posted by Darylyap
Ya. but the water stay mainly in 27 degree. Top up daily is alot!
JC
Our Earth Project:
http://projectpowerplant.com/blog/
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