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1) Put in antichlorine as you add in water. No diff.
2) Nope but dun dose direct at them.
I have a 6ft planted tank...just started dosing the ferts.... thinking of trying the EI method...... but a few concerns:
1) because of the large size of my tank... i am never gonna be able to get a container to hold aged water for 90 gallon (50% water) and to add the anti-chloramine prior to topping up the tank........ so i guess i have to run the hose to the tank.... but this way.... wouldn't my beneficial bacteria be killed?????so every week WC is like setting up a new tank!
Anyone with large tanks and doing EI please advise me?
2) Are shrimps sensitive to Lushgro KNO3, KH2Po4, Seachem Flourish?
Thanks!
1) Put in antichlorine as you add in water. No diff.
2) Nope but dun dose direct at them.
... always look at the bright side of life
If you worry, you can add Easylife's Filter Media... It is like some all-in-one thingy... Can remove all sorts of things and also contain BB...
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
In my experience, the tap water in some areas of Singapore (my home for example) wipes the filter bacteria if I do a 50% water change. Anti-chlorine/chloramine does not help. A 0.5 micron carbon filter did not help either.
I experimented, and have gone up to 25% water change without adverse effects.
You can still use EI.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
Just occured to me... age as much water as possible, but only use 25% tap water straight from the tap.
E.g. Use 25% aged water and 25% fresh tap water.
Anyway, experiment with your tank... tap water in your area may not be an issue. Start with a 10% water change. If nothing bad happens, try 15% the next week, then 20% the week after and so on. Once you notice adverse effects, you know how much you can change fairly safely.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
i do 25-30% WC straight from the tap all the time...
add seachem prime while the water is still filling in from the hose.
only time i had a bacteria bloom was when i cleaned both my 2028s with tap water. abit hazy for a couple of days. no casualties
Cheers,
Melvin Lim
the worrying part is the timing..... assuming i switch off my filters while i WC.... so while filling the tap water.... how much time do i have? I mean are the BB killed instantly upon direct contact with chlorinated water or they will be struggling for a while before being annihilated?Originally Posted by joe
1) Put in antichlorine as you add in water. No diff.
2) Nope but dun dose direct at them.
Saw it at C328.... was about to buy it when it dawned upon me that for me to use this for a 6ft......i need to get a carton to last me a month....... so in the end went for Stress Coat instead....
problem is for a 6ft tank... any adverse effect is a disaster! So i am seeing if anyone here got some solutions? like passing the tap water through some UV canister? tap water filter with activated carbon?
Issnt Seachem prime just BB? Do you anti-chlorinate your water after filling the tank?
They have a 5L sized one... but dunno C328 have or not...Saw it at C328.... was about to buy it when it dawned upon me that for me to use this for a 6ft......i need to get a carton to last me a month....... so in the end went for Stress Coat instead....
10ml per 30L so for your tank, you probably need 100ml each time you change water...
oh ok.... but for a mid size bottle one ~ size of seachem flourish bottle.....already cost $18.......one large bottle of stress coat only about $15+
maybe go ask auntie next time i go...
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
You should not have very adverse effects (perhaps cloudy water, but fishes are safe) if you do what I suggested (incrementing water change weekly). To be doubly safe, make sure you have some anti-ammonia anti-nitrite on hand... so you can dose once you observe problems.
If you get cloudy water... in my experience, don't chagne anymore water. A mature tank will quickly recover when the bacteria colony re-establishes itself (3 days in my experience). Additional water change will only worsen the problem by killing off the rest of the bacteria.
If the filter bacteria in a cycled planted tank is wiped, the nitrite spike usually occurs the next day (probably because the plants stop absorbing ammonia during lights out and allowing an ammonia peak overnight). Change the water before or at the start of the lighting period to maximise the plants absorption of ammonia. Starve the fishes the day before and on the day of the water change to lessen waste products. (It's ok to starve fishes once in a while... helps them clean their guts).
The bacteria colony can double in size within 24 hrs, IIRC.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
I did... 0.5 micron, drinking fountain activated carbon filter... still the same. I'm still using it just to clear other stuff.... tap water filter with activated carbon?
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
Hi vratenza,
If I am not wrong, anti chlorine/chloramine solutions are supposed to act instantenously.
You still need to add anti chloramine solution to your water during the aging process, simply leaving it standing in a container will not remove the chloramine, that was why chlorine was replaced by chloramine in the first place.
The breaking down of chloramine produces ammonia as the by product. So make sure you get a chlorine/chloramine and ammonia removal.
I never use EI method, but can I find out why is there a need for 50% water change each time? I think you should stick to small amount of water changes, aim to keep the conditions in your tank stable.
You can look at http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_chlorine.htm for more info.
If you do not trust those chlorine/cholramine removal solutions, and still thing best thing to do is to age the water, then i recommend you use those large rectangular plastic storage boxes. I currently have one which i use to store water to be recycled for watering plants. I have been keeping fighting fishes in it with no problems, so no danger of it leaking any dangerous chemicals. Problem is, it's no where near the 90 gallons you're aiming for... but it's definitely quite economical.
Or, you can got to Toyogo warehouse at Toa Payoh Lor 8, at those factory/workshop area, it has many (I mean MANY) water containers from which you can choose from.
after sometime in the hobby, i rather take time for other things then worry about agin water (unless you have lots of space at home) ... juz change not more than 50% water at one time ... add anti-chlorine solution as you add new water ... sit back and relax
... always look at the bright side of life
The EI is flexible, you can choose not to do water changes. The water changes are needed to act as a safety measure to ensure that nitrate levels do not go to dangerous levels, which is very difficult to have it happen if you have good growth in your tank. You can also choose to do water changes on a less frequent basis, like once a month. 50% weekly water changes for a 6ft... I think even I'd find it a chore.
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
Water change in EI is to reset all nutrients back to "zero" (or close to) and re-dosing to good levels. This allows users to assume that nutrient levels are so low that they have negligible impact on the final levels after re-dosing. It also prevents any one element from building to levels which could be harmful to live stock.
Any significant water change will acheive this. IMO, a 25% water change will suffice.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
Resistance is futile, you will be administrated!
I need to clear a mis-conception. So many people are spouting EI all over the place, but few understand what it is.
If I understand Tom Barr correctly, EI is not EI without water change. That's because EI is a method of fertilisation specifically designed to minimise need for tracking and measuring nutrient levels in the tank. The large water change is crucial in EI, because it is precisely that which allows dosing of fertilisers without tracking and measuring existing nutrient levels. The water change resets the tank nutrient levels to low levels, so that you can confidently re-dose the nutrients back up to required levels without having to measure which nutrient is in abundance and which has been depleted.
A method that does not incorporate large regular water change is not EI anymore.
It is possible to have setups where fertilisation routines that do not require large regular water change. But such methods are NOT EI.
Vincent - AQ is for everyone, but not for 'u' and 'mi'.
Why use punctuation? See what a difference it makes:A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.
Thanks Vinz, for answering my query.
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