Advise on fert regime.

[grey_fox]

Hi all,

I've been using Estimative Index fertilization regime for quite a while, I am thinking of re-vamping the schedule and would like some advise from you guys.

This is my current layout.

Monday: Seachem Flourish + K2SO4
Tuesday: KNO3 + KH2PO4
Wednesday: Seachem Flourish + K2SO4
Friday: KNO3 + KH2PO4
Saturday: 40% water-change; Seachem Flourish + K2SO4
Sunday: KNO3 + KH2PO4

Composition of dosage at any one time.

KNO3: 1.6 tps @ 9.05PPM
KH2PO4: 1.5ml @ 1.78PPM
K (composition from KNO3 + KH2SO4): 18.43PPM
Fe: 0.24PPM
TE: Unknown range.

My question is, for the Saturday waterchange, would it be wiser to have KNO3 + KH2PO4 added in and then have the Seamchem Flourish + K2SO4 added in on Sunday. Also, am I overdosing?

[PeterGwee]

Do the macros first before the trace-mix, not the other way around. Why change the routine in the first place?

Regards
Peter Gwee

[grey_fox]

Hi Peter,

So this would be the correct layout?

Monday: KNO3 + KH2PO4
Tuesday: Seachem Flourish + K2SO4
Wednesday: KNO3 + KH2PO4
Friday: Seachem Flourish + K2SO4
Saturday: 40% water-change; KNO3 + KH2PO4
Sunday: Seachem Flourish + K2SO4

Problem is that I can't remember the routine or what I dosed after the 4 day black-out period. I remembered dosing a large amount of KNO3 after the black-out period, before the dose, I cleaned both the filters (prior and after) and removed 60-70% of the water before re-dosing again. Religiously I will do a 35-40% water change each week, however I forgotten what I dosed yesterday (as silly as that sounds) so I was thinking, I might as well get the proper advise and have the fert regime stabilised again.

Again, many thanks & would that schedule above in this post be correct, Macros first after a WC and then TE.

[PeterGwee]

Hi Peter,

So this would be the correct layout?

Monday: KNO3 + KH2PO4
Tuesday: Seachem Flourish + K2SO4
Wednesday: KNO3 + KH2PO4
Friday: Seachem Flourish + K2SO4
Saturday: 40% water-change; KNO3 + KH2PO4
Sunday: Seachem Flourish + K2SO4

Yes.

Problem is that I can't remember the routine or what I dosed after the 4 day black-out period. I remembered dosing a large amount of KNO3 after the black-out period, before the dose, I cleaned both the filters (prior and after) and removed 60-70% of the water before re-dosing again. Religiously I will do a 35-40% water change each week, however I forgotten what I dosed yesterday (as silly as that sounds) so I was thinking, I might as well get the proper advise and have the fert regime stabilised again.

Again, many thanks & would that schedule above in this post be correct, Macros first after a WC and then TE.

Well, sometimes I do forget as well. Nobody is perfect unless you keep a log on it. If in doubt, simply do a large water change and reset things.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[grey_fox]

Thanks a bunch!

I do intend to jot it down to my PDA, I'm really forgetful at times.

Also, since PH/KH test kits don't really display the true figure of what the water chemistry is, how can I be sure that the CO2 is maintained at 30PPM?

My PH reading shows 6.7 and KH is at 5.0, this would equate to 30PPM but I still do see bits & pieces of BBA, escpecially on my JF, Windelovs, nanas & the vallisneria (only top affected), the Echniodorus Amazon, Osiris , E.Tellenus (just a small fraction of it is)and hairgrass are not affected .

I am currently using the mist method and the CO2 is evenly distributed around the tank by means of the rainbar (modified and is long enough to cover the length of the tank [at least 75% of its length]) propped right at the bottom, just above the substrate of the tank.

I've read up on Tom Barr's venturi model and was thinking of having one of that installed in my tank (saw Vinz's modified version by means of the internal diffuser).

Could my problem be.

1. Poor distribution of CO2?
2. Not enough CO2 pumped in (currently at 3bps)
3. Wrong readings from PH/KH test kit (Sera)

[PeterGwee]

Thanks a bunch!

I do intend to jot it down to my PDA, I'm really forgetful at times.

Also, since PH/KH test kits don't really display the true figure of what the water chemistry is, how can I be sure that the CO2 is maintained at 30PPM?

My PH reading shows 6.7 and KH is at 5.0, this would equate to 30PPM but I still do see bits & pieces of BBA, escpecially on my JF & nanas.

I am currently using the mist method and the CO2 is evenly distributed around the tank by means of the rainbar propped right at the bottom on the tank.

Measure the CO2 over the course of a day. Not just at one point or end of the day. That way, you would see a pattern emerging. Measure an hour into the photoperiod, then every 2-3 hour intervals till one hour before the end of the photoperiod. See what you get...

Regards
Peter Gwee

[grey_fox]

Will record the readings down and then post it here by the end of the day. I have a feeling that the readings are all wrong, by a longshot.

[PeterGwee]

Will record the readings down and then post it here by the end of the day. I have a feeling that the readings are all wrong, by a longshot.

Getting the CO2 high asap say within an hour or two is critical period as well as maintaining the CO2 throughout the day. What kind of substrate are you using?

Regards
Peter Gwee

[grey_fox]

Hi Peter,

Just did a test @ 4.15PM (2 hours in on Photoperiod)

PH: 6.6 KH: 4.0

PPM calculated as per AQ's CO2 Calculator shows 30.1PPM

I don't know why but I feel the test kit is lying perhaps? Addtional information, I have 8 x T5 HO tubes (4 x 10,000K & 4 x 6,500K) I am currently using only 6 of them, I previously used 8 and did see a whole range of different sorts of algae, however now with the downsizing, only problem is the sturrbon BBA.

WPG would be 2.2 with 6 T5HOs as compared previously to 2.9WPG.

I'm using normal substrate (white/black&brown grains - can't quite recall the name but the brand is Angel) with Sera Flowderpot as its base fertiliser.

Currently this is the layout and condition of the tank, don't think you'll be able to see the evident BBA existence but its there.

[grey_fox]

5.30 update:

PH: 6.5
KH: 3.5

CO2 PPM @ 33.2

Going to increase the CO2 flow but a bit. How do you raise KH but a bit?

[grey_fox]

10PM update

PH: 6.4
KH: 3

CO2 PPM @ 35.8PPM

Am I in the safe side?

[PeterGwee]

Something is not right with the KH measurements. It shouldn't move around if your only source is bicarbonate and you only use baking soda instead of coral chips.

Try an collect a sample of your tank water and aerate it using an airpump for half an hour or so. Measure the pH of the aerated sample and see if the difference is 1.0 pH. You can also consider starting the CO2 an hour or two earlier for it to buildup to get over some responsive issues if the KH is indeed 3 instead of 3.5/4.

The other thing you might try is stop using any baking soda or coral chips to bring up the KH if your tap source have enough say 1dKH. Doing large water changes of say 70-80% 2x a week would reset the KH well back to that of the tap and allow you a better KH referrence point. You can assume the KH to be the same as the tap if it appears higher for the tank water due to possible other interferrence.

Calibrate the pH meter often using good non-expired buffer solutions.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[grey_fox]

Hi Peter,

So far ever since the setup of the tank, I have never had any bicarbonate added to the tank or even coral chips to the filters.

Could there be something wrong with my KH test kit? I have set the timer to switch the solenoid on 1 hour before the lighting period.

By right, KH should not fluctuate, correct if I am wrong.

[PeterGwee]

It should not move much except if the plants use it when the CO2 is low. Measure your tap water's KH and use it as the standard but make sure you are around when you adjust to the new CO2 rate.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[grey_fox]

I measured the tap water's KH and it measures 7.0.

I will continue to monitor the levels. Will I need to further increase the CO2 levels and have the CO2 levels dropped since I happen to be losing more CO2 than keeping it in the tank since the KH levels are dropping.

[PeterGwee]

What is the tap water KH? Try to measure using a sample of 10ml instead of 5ml. Each drop would give you 0.5dKH instead of 1.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[grey_fox]

Just measured the tap water with 10ml, 5 drops turned the readings yellow.

[PeterGwee]

Just measured the tap water with 10ml, 5 drops turned the readings yellow.

Repeat it 2-3 times to be sure of the readings and then simple dial it in to 30-35ppm while the lights are on. Then, add a tad more CO2 slowly over a course of several days till the plants pearl well 1-2 hrs into the photoperiod.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[grey_fox]

Hi Peter,

Just to get this correct, the KH I measured was from the tap water itself, so this will be made into some sort of a measurement kit to compare to the tanks' water, once this works out, the next step is to fiddle with the CO2 and then to optimise it to the actual 30-35PPM figure?

[grey_fox]

I just did a re-test of my tap water & the tank's water with 10 ML each time.

Tap water: 5 drops = 2.5dKH
Tank water: 8 drops = 4.0dKH

Now I don't know if I should trust my KH kit or not.... maybe with a pinch of salt.