So running a 1/2 HP chiller whole day how much is the monthly bill?
I think this discussion to find out exactly how spservices in Singapore charges us is important.
Also I feel that this discussion is useful (but of course, right?.. it is started off by me) because it basially bring about awareness the different between hp rating, current rating, power consumption and what you eventually have to pay.
This discussion will help AQ members make informed decision when they consider buying a chiller from now on.
So running a 1/2 HP chiller whole day how much is the monthly bill?
Where did you get your thermostat device? How does it work? Can take some picture and send to me via email?Originally Posted by ranmasatome
Better still, post it here in AQ for all to see. Explain to us how it works.
Thanks!
Got to see what spservices reply. If Tawauboy is right, then it is Current x Voltage x Hours = kWh.Originally Posted by eddyq
Multiply by 30 days for 1 month and multiply by $0.2115.
That will give you a good ballpark figure.
Note: you should try to verify if the current rating stated in the specs of your chiller is accurate.
Nick,Originally Posted by Nicky
If follow your formula is about $92..running 24hr/day non stop.
The thing is .. your chiller won't be running 24 hrs non stop. Suppose 1/3 of 24 hrs which is 8 hrs running .. it will be roughly $30 per month. Which i reckon to be around there also.Originally Posted by stephen chung
This depend on a lot of factors like your lighting period and what temperature you set ..etc.
Exactly.. that's why buying right-size chiller is so important.
Too big chiller usually means high upfront investment and high current ratings.
Too small chiller usually means higher running cost but low upfront investment.
One thing to note is that regardless of the size of chiller, the rest period of chiller between runs should be the same. That means we cannot assume that 1/2hp of the same brand chiller will run 1/2 the time of the 1/4hp chiller on a given day. Draw out a table and put in the numbers, assuming 1/4hp runs 60 mins before resting for 60 mins, and 1/2hp runs for 30 mins before resting for 60 mins, and you will know what I mean.
Not necessary so.. how do you know what's the current rating of that chiller?Originally Posted by stephen chung
Also, it may not run full 24 hrs.
Just check out the specs of Teco chiller.Originally Posted by benny
Current Ratings not available but power rating is as follows:
TR10 = 1/8 hp = 200 (H2O quoted 250W - the shop owner seemed to be reading off a specalog)
TC10 = 1/8 hp = 400W
According to spec, both are for tank less than 500 litres.
TR15 = 1/5 hp = 300W (H2O quoted 400W)
TC15 = 1/5 hp = 400W
According to spec, both are for tank less than 800 litres.
TR20 = 1/3 hp = 480W (H2O quoted 650W)
TC20 = 1/3 hp = 480W
According to spec, both are for tank less than 2000 litres.
But the price is 4-digit and so is more than 2x the price of Hailea.
From the power rating provided you can tell there is hardy any electrical savings to discuss.
Let say you can squeeze out $7 per month, and let's assume Teco cost $700 (more than this actually, range to range comparison) more than Hailea, it will take more than 8 years to see any benefit. This exclude the time value of money.
I don't remember the name of the shop, but I remember spotted AZoo PH controller which displays outside. It is located at basement for sure. The brand is Fox brand.Originally Posted by Nicky
The function consists of :
1) usual desire temperature cut off deg
2) you can define degree F or degree C
3) dly : delay timing in MM:SS
4) dif : difference between cut off point and the delta. I don't understand the logic in this one. In order for me to physical cut off at 26 deg and cut in at 27 deg, I have to set the dif with 0.5 , and set temp at 26.5 deg. Funny ?
5) cor : any deviation if you have a more accurate measurement device to calibrate it. Who knows you may need it , like a PH tester , right ?
What Tan did is quite simple, as long as you can fix a closure/box and fit the thermostat display and connect the power (at your own risk). Of course the closure should also fitted with 3 pins socket. So your chiller plug will connect to this socket. Once the Fox thermostat kick in , power will be supply to the chiller plug .
NO 4) is extremely logical.. Think about it.
Of course it is logical if you base of these numbers to deduce the outcome. In the first place, the desire cut off temp (say 26 deg) cannot be set physically, and have to use this "higher" number (26.5) with the "dif" set of 0.5 to achieve the desire 26 deg and also use this "dif" to achieve the desire 1 deg (from 26 deg) to cut in when it reach 27 deg. This logic is according to the mid point of the cut in and cut off , with respect to the set temp and "dif" .Originally Posted by ranmasatome
Precisely..so whats not to understand or find funny?
It should work like this, base on the desire cut off temp I want to set like most other chiller thermostat , ie 26 deg not 26.5 , and with the "dif" setting, ie 1.0 , the cut off will happen when reach 27.Originally Posted by ranmasatome
This way it makes more sense ! Don't think so ?
Does not sound logical. Its a chiller... if you want it to CUT off at 27degrees.. then how can it chill to 26?Originally Posted by neon
Last edited by benny; 25th Aug 2006 at 04:18.
Originally Posted by neon
According to what I know is, if you set the temp at 26 n delta of 1 then the device will cut in at 26.5 n cut out at 26.5. If the delta is 2 then cut in at 27 and cut off at 25.
OK.. I think the 4 functions (with example) are as follows:
1. Usual Desire Temp (example = 25C)
2. C or F (example = C)
3. DLY (example = 2 min 30 sec. This will be explained together with pt 4)
4. DIF (example = 0.7)
Explaination of Pt 3 & 4:
At 25.7C, the chiller supposed to start working. But it will delay by another 2min30sec before the chiller starts running.
And it will run until 24.3C and stop.
For this to work, the chiller must be set up to a temp lower than 24.3C.
Am I right?
Sorry lah , a typo lah . I meant cut in at 27 . Don't play by the word, I am talking the behaviour of the device.Originally Posted by ranmasatome
Last edited by benny; 25th Aug 2006 at 04:20.
That's correct, but provided both temp sensor "really" in-sync / calibrated correctly. My observation, the chiller internal thermostat sensor is different from the external one , at least for my. So, on the safest side and just in case the external sensor drop-out or spoilt, at least the internal one able to cut it off at lower temp, instead of letting the chiller continue to chill. Mind you when that happen, the titanium coil will crack when frozen , according to Tan. Then will be in big trouble. With this double thermostat, can be used as redundancy.Originally Posted by Nicky
Cut in at 26.5 and cut out at 26.5!?Originally Posted by stephen chung
Okay..logically speaking.. We set our chiller to a desired temperature.. say.. 25 degrees celcius. Then when it gets to 25.1 dC.. it will start to chill because its not 25 anymore! Logically. That would mean that every time it DIFFERENTIATES by 0.1 dC the chiller will turn on.. then turn off again when it has chilled that 0.1 dC.. that set up would work, yes.. but boy would that cost you a bunch of money and shorten the lifespan of your chiller.. So people added this Differentiating funtion.
So you can set a buffer for your chiller and also introduce a RANGE of temperature into your tank. so logically speaking.. If I want my tank temperature to be 25 dC!! The chiller should MAINTAIN that temperature in my tank... then we set the buffer..or differentiation range.. so say I set 1... that would mean the chiller would kick in at 26.. because 25 + 1 is =26...and switch off when?? again.. lets think logically...
Anyway.. Nicky, SP haven't replied??
Last edited by benny; 25th Aug 2006 at 04:27.
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