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Thread: Some notes on my new Hailea Chiller

  1. #1
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    Some notes on my new Hailea Chiller

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    I'm going to get my new Hailea chiller tomorrow !!
    Aren't you happy for me?

    I bought the 1/2 HP version... slurp slurp..
    Also got the 1/4 hp version.. same size as 1/2 hp.

    I did some background study before committing and here's my homework..

    Fact

    - We pay electrical bill based on kWh and the current rate is S$0.2115 per kWh. And kWh and merely taking the power rating of the equipment multiply by the hours of usage. Power = Current x Voltage x power factor of the equipment. (unless some electrical fellow can counter me, ):

    - Horsepower is only a measure of the amount of heat removal per unit time. Though 1 HP = 745W (something like that lah), it is wrong to assume 1/10 HP chiller consume 75W.

    - From jbjlightings in Singapore - Artica chiller
    1/10 hp = 225W
    1/5 hp = 360W
    1/4 hp = 430W
    1/2 hp = 600W

    - This Hailea 1/2 HP consumes 480W, current rating (as per manufacturer) = 2.4A but proven by Singapore consumer to consume 2.34A when stabilised, 2.73A when initial kick-in. Taking into considering power-factor, the power rating of 480W is probably right. BTW, I do not believe the older version of Hailea has stated the correct current (Ampere) ratings. I believe it has been proven that the numbers were wrong.

    - This Hailea uses Made-in-Japan Mitsubishi compressor and titanium cooling coil (titanium coil is deployed in good chiller such as Artica).

    - This chiller is very quiet during operations. I know it because I have heard one running and I used to have the 1/10 hp Daeil (OEM of Artica) so I'm in the position to compare (and convince no one but myself, )

    - Free delivery to your door step.

    - Comes with 1 year warranty and tons of people can service it (and we are talking onsite service, not asking you to lug it all the way to someplace and yet got your throat slit, )

    So you tell me.. very wu-hua (hokkien for 'worth it') right ? How to resist not investing in one ?

    If you want to know where I got my lobang (connection) and how much I paid please pm me. Don't want to talk about price here..

    So how, should I do a Mass Order to benefit everyone? Maybe we can get even better price..
    Last edited by benny; 22nd Aug 2006 at 17:57.

  2. #2
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    power consumption (as charged) does not take power-factor into consideration. just straight and plain-simple; voltage x current.

    so based on current 2.4a, the chiller power consumption will be 576 watts.
    at 400 watts consumption, the current will be 2.0a.
    thomas liew

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    Quote Originally Posted by tawauboy
    power consumption (as charged) does not take power-factor into consideration. just straight and plain-simple; voltage x current.

    so based on current 2.4a, the chiller power consumption will be 576 watts.
    at 400 watts consumption, the current will be 2.0a.

    They are running on DC motor?



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    Quote Originally Posted by tawauboy
    power consumption (as charged) does not take power-factor into consideration. just straight and plain-simple; voltage x current.

    so based on current 2.4a, the chiller power consumption will be 576 watts.
    at 400 watts consumption, the current will be 2.0a.
    Sorry mate P=IV only for DC.
    For AC you always have a power factor to the equation.

    I quote the following but I know he is right that's why I quote him.

    Quote Originally Posted by xtrekker
    The most accurate way of measuring your electrical comsumpstion is using a True power meter. Or you can estimate it by using a current cramp to measure the current drawn by your chiller. The calculate the power use by this .....

    True Power = I x V x P.f

    I = Current
    V = 240V AC
    p.f = power factor of your device.

    PUB only bills you the true power drawn.

    cheers
    xtrekker
    Quote Originally Posted by xtrekker
    Power factor ( P.f ) of the A.C machine i.e compressor motor should be some where on the compressor / chiller casing? together with the power ratings .

    If you cannot find just use P = I x V this will give you the apparent power . True Power is usally lower then apparent power. So in fact you are paying for less then you what you calculated if you omit p.f.

    cheers
    xtrekker

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    To further prove I am right about adding the power factor in the power equation, here's the number I obtained directly from jbjlighting in Singapore.


    Artica chiller:

    - 1/10 HP = 1.6 A = 225W (If based on P=IV=352W)

    - 1/5 HP = 2.5 A = 360W (If based on P=IV=550W)

    - 1/4 HP = 2.6A = 430W (If based on P=IV=572W)

    - 1/2 HP = 2.8W = 600W (If based on P=IV=616W)


    So this proves I am 'more right' ..

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    Hi Nicky,

    I am using hailea 1 HP now (the previous model). How is the power consumption vs the new 1HP model.

    Saw it last Saturday at Bioplast. Beauty man ! Now it designs correctly with the water in/out on top , instead of at the back. It is in cool black color and the display is in blue.

    What Tan did was to put another thermostat in the tank and link to a external power source. Assuming the set off and on temperature is 26 and 27 deg, the chiller will be plugged into this power source. He set the chiller to off at much lower temp say 23 deg, in case the sensor in the tank fail, the internal thermostat will still function and cut off at 23 deg. The external power source will cut off if the tank sensor reach 26 deg.

    With a good/cheap thermostat like Fox brand from Sim Lim Tower, I can delay the kick in by another 10mins more, as I noticed that the extra 10mins delay will not increase to 0.1 deg. Assuming one day the chiller kick in 12 times, 12x10mins = 2hr saving of running power !

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    Quote Originally Posted by stephen chung
    They are running on DC motor?


    nope. ac motor.
    thomas liew

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicky
    Sorry mate P=IV only for DC.
    For AC you always have a power factor to the equation.

    I quote the following but I know he is right that's why I quote him.
    there are 3 power at play here.
    a) apparent power, va (you pay for this) = voltage x current
    b) actual power, w (does the real work) = voltage x current x power factor
    c) reactive power, var (useless power wasted due to motor coil reactance)

    power factor = actual power/apparent power

    singpower bills you for apparent power consumed, not the lower true power.
    most, if not all, commercial buildings have power factor correction capacitor banks to improve their building power factor. if electricity is charged for true power only, why would these building bother to have these power factor correction capacitor banks?
    thomas liew

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    Quote Originally Posted by tawauboy
    there are 3 power at play here.
    a) apparent power, va (you pay for this) = voltage x current
    b) actual power, w (does the real work) = voltage x current x power factor
    c) reactive power, var (useless power wasted due to motor coil reactance)

    power factor = actual power/apparent power

    singpower bills you for apparent power consumed, not the lower true power.
    most, if not all, commercial buildings have power factor correction capacitor banks to improve their building power factor. if electricity is charged for true power only, why would these building bother to have these power factor correction capacitor banks?
    Thomas,

    I think SP bills you on true power. In fact commercial buildings and factorys are required to put in the power factor corrector to reduce the waste of power.

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    Quote Originally Posted by neon
    Hi Nicky,

    I am using hailea 1 HP now (the previous model). How is the power consumption vs the new 1HP model.

    Saw it last Saturday at Bioplast. Beauty man ! Now it designs correctly with the water in/out on top , instead of at the back. It is in cool black color and the display is in blue.

    What Tan did was to put another thermostat in the tank and link to a external power source. Assuming the set off and on temperature is 26 and 27 deg, the chiller will be plugged into this power source. He set the chiller to off at much lower temp say 23 deg, in case the sensor in the tank fail, the internal thermostat will still function and cut off at 23 deg. The external power source will cut off if the tank sensor reach 26 deg.

    With a good/cheap thermostat like Fox brand from Sim Lim Tower, I can delay the kick in by another 10mins more, as I noticed that the extra 10mins delay will not increase to 0.1 deg. Assuming one day the chiller kick in 12 times, 12x10mins = 2hr saving of running power !
    neon,

    Which shop selling the thermostat?

    Thanks

  11. #11
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    Okay.. this is the way i see it...

    Refer to Thomas' post that..
    a) apparent power, va (you pay for this) = voltage x current
    b) actual power, w (does the real work) = voltage x current x power factor
    c) reactive power, var (useless power wasted due to motor coil reactance)

    IF power in = power out + heat and other wasted power..

    Then.. it must make sense that

    Apparent Power, Va = Actual power, w + Reactive power, var + heat and other wasted power.

    IT would make no sense that SP charges you for ACTUAL power..
    TRUE.. you machine or whatever may use ACTUAL power to run... but there is always wasted energy...no machine is taht efficient and yes you are charged for it. Also.. logically think for a minute...how many different machines do you have at home that use electricity?? And how many houses are there in Singapore?? so how many power factors does SP have to know before billing you, IF they bill you depending on ACTUAL power??
    IF i was an electircity company... why would i go thru ALLLLLL this hassle just to bill you LESS and make less money for myself? Makes sense?? Power used to run machine is power used to run machine...

    If i'm not wrong.. i think thats the point that is trying to be put forward. BOTH points are valid.. but theres a difference...at least thats the way i understand it.

    so correct me if i'm wrong..

    But what i dont understand is this quote...
    Quote Originally Posted by tawauboy

    singpower bills you for apparent power consumed, not the lower true power.
    most, if not all, commercial buildings have power factor correction capacitor banks to improve their building power factor. if electricity is charged for true power only, why would these building bother to have these power factor correction capacitor banks?

    It would only make sense to install these power factor correction capacitor banks only if SP charges you for ACTUAL power. no??? i'm confused again..hahaha...

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    Quote Originally Posted by stephen chung
    Thomas,

    I think SP bills you on true power. In fact commercial buildings and factorys are required to put in the power factor corrector to reduce the waste of power.
    if sp bills you true power only, then there are no incentives for commercial buildings and factories to put power factor correction. no commercial buildings or factories will put in power factor correction just for the sake of reducing wasted power. these stuff cost quite a fair bit.
    thomas liew

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    Quote Originally Posted by neon
    Hi Nicky,

    I am using hailea 1 HP now (the previous model). How is the power consumption vs the new 1HP model.

    Saw it last Saturday at Bioplast. Beauty man ! Now it designs correctly with the water in/out on top , instead of at the back. It is in cool black color and the display is in blue.

    What Tan did was to put another thermostat in the tank and link to a external power source. Assuming the set off and on temperature is 26 and 27 deg, the chiller will be plugged into this power source. He set the chiller to off at much lower temp say 23 deg, in case the sensor in the tank fail, the internal thermostat will still function and cut off at 23 deg. The external power source will cut off if the tank sensor reach 26 deg.

    With a good/cheap thermostat like Fox brand from Sim Lim Tower, I can delay the kick in by another 10mins more, as I noticed that the extra 10mins delay will not increase to 0.1 deg. Assuming one day the chiller kick in 12 times, 12x10mins = 2hr saving of running power !
    Can you share with us the purpose of have this extra piece of device?
    It is documented and proven that the temperature sensor of this machine is calibrated correctly. Plus it is the same sensor used in the 1/4HP machine which according to the same person you were refering to, does not need the extra gadget.

    Yah, plus can you PM me the details of the shop in Sim Lim that sell this thermostat? I want to take a look at it and understand how it works.

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tawauboy
    there are 3 power at play here.
    a) apparent power, va (you pay for this) = voltage x current
    b) actual power, w (does the real work) = voltage x current x power factor
    c) reactive power, var (useless power wasted due to motor coil reactance)

    power factor = actual power/apparent power

    singpower bills you for apparent power consumed, not the lower true power.
    most, if not all, commercial buildings have power factor correction capacitor banks to improve their building power factor. if electricity is charged for true power only, why would these building bother to have these power factor correction capacitor banks?
    Interesting discussion.. I have written to spservices to get their answer. Will post their response here.

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    While waiting for response from spservices let's focus our discussion on Horsepower.

    What exactly is the definition of HP?
    It can't be only kW because kW (being measure of energy) in itself does not say anything about the rate of heat removal from our tanks.
    Over time, a small chiller can remove the same amount of heat as a big chiller would do over a short period of time.
    A sporty car with high HP can deliver alot of propulsion energy within a short period of time to give the car the desired sprint.
    A high HP (BTU) aircon can cool down a room in a faster time than an aircon with a small HP (BTU).
    Hence if HP is merely an expression of kW (energy) then it has no useful meaning.

    If HP is indeed the expression of 'heat removal per unit time', then for the same rating (say 1/2 HP) all brands chillers should be able to chiller the same tank with the same amount of time, given all else being equal. Hence if my argument is true, then manufacturer, who claim that their 1/10 HP chiller can chiller a bigger tank than competitor's chiller, is essential making a nonsensical statement.

    Another observation I like to make is that judging from the ampere consumption, the technology used in a aquarium chiller is perhaps years behind that deployed in our regular fridge. The latest Samsung side-by-side fridge with water and ice dispenser has only a current rating of 0.7A !

    Feel free to comment on my observation.

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    But i don’t think it’s a good comparison between a chillier and refrigerators.
    My though was the refrigerators was to cold stuff of a constant body imagine a bag of water within a control environment, once it achieve its cooling condition the energy used would remain as the same or even lesser, since no work is require to chill the water anymore. Thus it uses less wattage as compare to a chillier

    Whereas for a chillier it not only has to cool the incoming water fast, it has to cope with the fluctuation temp from the tank, thus the electrical usage naturally higher in order to achieve effective cooling…

    How about comparing water cooler technology to chillier would it be closer???

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicky
    Can you share with us the purpose of have this extra piece of device?
    It is documented and proven that the temperature sensor of this machine is calibrated correctly. Plus it is the same sensor used in the 1/4HP machine which according to the same person you were refering to, does not need the extra gadget.

    Yah, plus can you PM me the details of the shop in Sim Lim that sell this thermostat? I want to take a look at it and understand how it works.

    Thanks.
    Nick.. i was using this device on my old resun450.. i find it more accurate and allows me those functions i mentioned to you previously..

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    Quote Originally Posted by tawauboy
    if sp bills you true power only, then there are no incentives for commercial buildings and factories to put power factor correction. no commercial buildings or factories will put in power factor correction just for the sake of reducing wasted power. these stuff cost quite a fair bit.

    Err... this really confuses me.. IF Sp charges for apparent power... which is IV...then there would be no point in putting in those regulators since power factor is no where in teh equation and you still get charged whether you use the device or not.

    IF they charge for actual or true power which is IV x pf... then it would make sense .. cos putting in those regulators would give you a better power factor (lower) and hence save you more money.. no??

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    Quote Originally Posted by yappeyap
    But i don’t think it’s a good comparison between a chillier and refrigerators.
    My though was the refrigerators was to cold stuff of a constant body imagine a bag of water within a control environment, once it achieve its cooling condition the energy used would remain as the same or even lesser, since no work is require to chill the water anymore. Thus it uses less wattage as compare to a chillier

    Whereas for a chillier it not only has to cool the incoming water fast, it has to cope with the fluctuation temp from the tank, thus the electrical usage naturally higher in order to achieve effective cooling…

    How about comparing water cooler technology to chillier would it be closer???
    I would reckon that water cooler technology is pretty much the same as chiller. It just being put together in a different way.

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    I think we better leave P=VI thing alone liao. Not really that important.

    Wait, the next you know laplace transform n DiffEq all come out liao.

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