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Not true at all, it's more likely to be other factors(nutrients and CO2). There are many posts regarding BBA, do a search you will find out more.
As indicated on the title , Is ADA aquasoil or its equivalent like Redsea flora base... more susceptible to BBA?
Saw a friend's tank who has converted to using normal gravel has minutes remains of previously used ADA aquasoil on the gravel surface affected by BBA whereas the plain gravel stayed clear of it?
Is the nutrient rich ADA soil or the porous surface of the ADA soil the reason for its occurance?
Last edited by Rokerites; 27th Oct 2006 at 13:32.
Not true at all, it's more likely to be other factors(nutrients and CO2). There are many posts regarding BBA, do a search you will find out more.
...I love rubies too ...
Ken
I have to agree with Rokerites, even though nothing scientific to proof here I have had BBA trouble since 2yrs ago when I switch to ADA gravel. Funny thing is that my old setup uses normal gravel with garden compost as base fert and I suffer less BBA outbreak.
Also no strict dosing regiment with the old setup which I had for 3 years. During that time no LGA as fert and kept switching between SERA, Denerlle and ADA product. CO2 dosing more or less the same.
The only consolation is I uses Seachem flourish excel now like Agent Orange when BBA gets really out of control. Not enjoying this hobby as much nowadays but like the challenge.
i beg to differ, i uses ada aquasoil for my planted setup. Never have such encountered with BBA.
I agree with Fei Miao, more likely it's other factors
Peace & Tranquillity
I also would think that it is unlikely that ADA soil is more prone to BBA. Unfortunately, two of my tanks (both using ADA soil)were hit badly by BBA, on the sand too.After switching back to lapis, all ok!
It could be just that BBA likes to adhere to porous surfaces.
It could be due to the fact that ADA soil is fertile itself unlike lapis which is inert. So, if CO2 is bad, fertilisation goes hay-wire, BBA lor...
You use Dennerle wouldn't have this problem, as Dennerle is quartz? Which is inert still right?
I agree to Valice's view, as we have to understand what ADA soil can do over the other products. I do not think they are substitutes, ADA soil over sand. The characteristics are all so different. Also, in each of the ADA soil, they vary again.Originally Posted by valice
Amazonia is good for plants that demand huge quantities of nutrients (sword plants), Malaya is good for asian plants (crypts) and Africana for water parameters similar to the african river.
Regards.
Thio
long story short, any instance where nutrients are added to an ecosystem gives rise to the occurance of algae. So yes, ADA is more susceptable to BBA than Lapis.
Having said that, you can't make a crypt flower with Lapis whereas almost everything grows in ADA. Perfect if you don't want your $80 bullosa investment to die.
I think it has got alot to do with the porosity of the soil, I have seen BBA occur really badly with CO2 and biogravel thrown together in the mix.
ADA AS is no more suspeptible than Lapis lustar 2-3mm to BBA.
The gravel does not matter, the CO2 and long term mainteance etc does.
I've had both for years, no issues with BBA.
Oh darn.......wait a minute........I have good CO2 also.
So maybe it's not the substrate at all.....
Of course you can believe what you want to believe, it does not support your arguement nor make you right
I've done several BBA experiments with controls and specifically induced BBA using CO2 variation and lowered it.
Did any of you use controls?
Did any of you measure the CO2 critically over this time?
Does ADA AS influence the KH/pH relationship many use to determine CO2 concentrations?
How does the ADA AS influence pH/KH determination of said CO2 ppms?
If you had used the chart using lapis lustar, and then switched using the same method with ADA AS, what would the new CO2 ppm be?
Higher, the same or lower than the lapis lustar tank's CO2 ppms?
Lower..........and what causes BBA?
Poor CO2...........
Regards,
Tom Barr
I'm buying Tom's theory more and more since I proved that CO2 is very important. Using pressurized does not guarantee CO2 availability. Cranking it up like mad, 8 bps if you dare to, also is not a guarantee. I still got myself clado and BBA in my 1000L tank, and sure you know it hurts my butt a lot.
I've leaned my lesson... CO2 well distribution in sufficient concentration is the key. Listening to the theory and studying my condition, where CO2 is the only suspected part, I made a huge DIY reactor that can handle my need. Crank it up like mad and effectively dissolve it all (so far my small reactor inhibits me from doing this effectively). Instantly within a week I can see all my plants, even the dying ones started to bounce back, growing nasty and algae recedes slowly, leaving just the clado and almost wiped out visible BBA.
If you suspect AS, I think it just because it got the right surface and provide lots of nutrients, more than your setup can handle. So it is quite right to check your CO2 and see if it is sufficient to match that extra quality.
Remember that plants cannot move likes fishes to get their food, you have to spoon feed them and that means good circulation to move the CO2/nutrients to them.
Regards
Peter Gwee
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
LOL... that kinda reminds me that perhaps some of us (including me) could use extension spraybar along the lower back of the tank, or add a powerhead at the other side of the output to even up distribution. I've had this kind of issue before and it cost me dearly ... black root vals is very bad!Remember that plants cannot move likes fishes to get their food, you have to spoon feed them and that means good circulation to move the CO2/nutrients to them.
I should be working not posting
The question is valid and it's also like asking if the Ferrari is going to be in more accidents than the Ford.
Upgraded to a larger CO2 tank and a beetle counter to try and drive that Ferrari.
You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung
To reword:
ADA aqua soil will artifically lower the pH, this means you believe you have more CO2 in there than you really do vs something like Lapid lustar gravel which has no impact on KH/pH.
Also, as the week goes on, the ADA AS also keeps lowering the KH/pH till you do another water change.
So if you target a pH of say 6.2 before, the target pH willd rop during the week and you will end up with progressively less CO2 as the week/till the next water change occurs etc.
Virtually all issues about CO2 favor less rather than more CO2 than is actually there.
The end result: you think you have 30ppm when you really have 5-10ppm of CO2.
I look at plants and algae more than readings in general, but you can measure the tank and CO2, but you need to do it critically, the reference KH solution and a pH indicator or a pH probve added to a ref KH solution in the tank with an air gap can solve this, but it is a bit of a job for most new folks and even experienced ones.
The simple method most tend to go with is that BBA and other algae means you need to tend the tank, add a buit more CO2 etc, the plant's health tells you this prior to algae also, so a lull in plant growth: do a water change, add ferts, and if that does not work, add more CO2(slowly).
It's the same old thing 1001 times.
Think about your logic also, I have lapis lustar and no BBA, I also have ADA AS and no BBA.
How can you possibly say/imply, suggest/speculate that ADA AS causes BBA on the grains?
Anytime we have any relationship at all, we should not rush to judgement.
Think about each side of things first.
I add PO45 to 2 ppm, no algae, then someone comes along and claims their high PO4 causes algae. I know that cannot be correct, note, I'm not saying what caused the algae here, just that this hypothese cannot be right, therefore I reject it.
Does it apply for all cases or is it something you have done and some assumption that you made that was causing the issue?
Correlation does not imply causation.
Many seem to think it does.
Some logic applied to the hobby helps a great deal.
Regards,
Tom Barr
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