When does a tank stabilise?

[geoffrey]

Hi Fellow Aquarist,

Further to my first query last week regarding my planted tank, kindly let me know when a planted tank will actually stabilised?

What are the stages it has to go thru before it stabilise. When each stage is expected to start and end, for how long? What are the signs to look out at each stage.

Right now, after week one, I am beginning to see algae and snails in the tank. As for the plants, new leaves and roots are sprouting. Detritus are floating in the water and there is a thin firm of oil-like stuff on the water surface (I suspect it is from the base fertiliser).

Lastly, is it adviseable to move plants around within the tank while they are sprouting roots and growing?

Geoffrey[:]

[vinz]

Read this and this about tank cycling.

The detritus should settle soon, unless the water current in your tank is too strong. When then plants grow in thicker, they should also allow detritus to settle under them and not be kicked up by the current.

The oily film is sort of sandy coloured? If yes, that is from the gravel or base fert. Will go away after a while, especially if the filter output causes abit of surface turbulence.

Snails is subject personal preference. I leave mine alone, but some forumers kill them on sight. They are beneficial for a planted tank, and do not eat live plants, contrary to popular belief.

Algae? What plants do you have and are you fertilising the water yet? Stop liquid fertilisation for now.

Should be ok to move them if absolutely necessary, but you'll set them back to square one where they have to start re-establishing their roots again. Some plants will melt if you move them, like crypts. They will usually grow back if they don't lose all their leaves. Try not to cause too much damage to the roots if you replant them. If you pull up too many plants, you'll probably end up with some base fert in the water, causing cloudyness and might contribute to algae, especially since your plants are probably not using the nutrients at optimum rates yet.

[bclee]

Just take note of NO2 level. When NO2 level goes to zero and stay there, your tank is cycled.

You don't have to wory about NH3 in a well planted tank. Sometimes if you plant heavily, you might not even get a NO2 spike.

BC

[geoffrey]

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On 8/20/2002 1:46:02 PM

Read this and this about tank cycling.

The detritus should settle soon, unless the water current in your tank is too strong. When then plants grow in thicker, they should also allow detritus to settle under them and not be kicked up by the current.

The oily film is sort of sandy coloured? If yes, that is from the gravel or base fert. Will go away after a while, especially if the filter output causes abit of surface turbulence.

Snails is subject personal preference. I leave mine alone, but some forumers kill them on sight. They are beneficial for a planted tank, and do not eat live plants, contrary to popular belief.

Algae? What plants do you have and are you fertilising the water yet? Stop liquid fertilisation for now.

Should be ok to move them if absolutely necessary, but you'll set them back to square one where they have to start re-establishing their roots again. Some plants will melt if you move them, like crypts. They will usually grow back if they don't lose all their leaves. Try not to cause too much damage to the roots if you replant them. If you pull up too many plants, you'll probably end up with some base fert in the water, causing cloudyness and might contribute to algae, especially since your plants are probably not using the nutrients at optimum rates yet.

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Yeah, one more thing, the gravel around my Glossostigma elatinoides are browning too. So are their roots.

The species I have are Eustralis Stellata, Glossostigma elatinoide, Echindorus osiris, Aponogeton ulvaceus, Enchindorus quadricostatus and 4 other species that I have not ID yet.

Last week, I started with one tablet of E15, the first time and subsequently 4 drops of A1 daily. This week, I reduce the A1 to 2 drops.

Geoffrey

[vinz]

The browning of the Glosso roots - are they rotting or just covered with brown stuff like the gravel? If its brown stuff, its algae. When the water stablises, get otos to clear that up.

Other then E.Stellata, any other stemmed plants? Are you using any fert sticks/tabs/balls like root monster or Jobe sticks? Your plants will do better, hopefully grow faster and start sucking up nutrients from the water. E15 not counted.

Personally, I'll stop the water fert for now, if you're getting algae. The only fert I'll add now will be K (potassium).

[geoffrey]

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On 8/20/2002 3:38:31 PM

The browning of the Glosso roots - are they rotting or just covered with brown stuff like the gravel? If its brown stuff, its algae. When the water stablises, get otos to clear that up.

Other then E.Stellata, any other stemmed plants? Are you using any fert sticks/tabs/balls like root monster or Jobe sticks? Your plants will do better, hopefully grow faster and start sucking up nutrients from the water. E15 not counted.

Personally, I'll stop the water fert for now, if you're getting algae. The only fert I'll add now will be K (potassium).
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I really can't differentiate between rotting or just algae. But I do know that the substrate around the Glossostigma is browning too. Based on that I would say that it is algae. Am I right?

There are 2 other stem plants that I can't ID. One is like a palm tree like, fan-shaped specie and the other, hard to describe. Yes, I am a bit KS, I added 11 root monster together with one bag of JBL.

Okay, I will stop fertilising daily with the A1 for the time being. But until when should i resume?

Geoffrey

[vinz]

Ummm... ever seen rotting tow gay? Rotting roots look the same, except finer.

Resume fert when your NO3 drops to around 5ppm. Give it a few weeks. Observe your plants too, if they start turning yellow or dying without new shoots sprouting, it's a good time to start adding fert.

[vinz]

I just went and checked the Dennerle website about your ferts.

E15
Iron fertilizer for all aquatic plants
- Is a secure aid in the event of iron-induced chlorosis
- Ensures your plants have radiantly healthy, rich colours.
- Promotes plant growth and the formation of green leaves
- Works immediately.

You do not need this yet. Have read that iron can contribute to algae. The browning could be due to this too. I've noticed increased brown stuff in my filter and pipes whenever I use iron.

A1
Aquaria with particularly high nutrient requirements need additional fertilization. The newly developed A1 aquaria daily fertilizer provides all the aquatic plants with a valuable multi-mineral concentrate each day.

The nutrient requirements are increased in the aquarium if there is a lot of water movement, a large amount of filtering, a high water temperature or a long period of illumination. A1 is administered every day to ensure that the aquatic plants are provided with all they need for strong growth in spite of this: 4 drops per 100 litres of aquarium water. Hence, if you add “4 drops per hundred” in addition to the basic fertilizers (E15 and V30) then you can be sure that your aquascape has everything it needs to ensure wonderful growth even if the aquarium has high nutrient requirements.

You definitely do not have high nutrient requirements at the moment, and imo, not for the combo of plants you have right now. Stick to the basic stuff like E15 and V30 when you resume fert. A1 is for when you have LOTS of nutrient hungry plants.

Ummm, who recommended E15 and A1 to you? Firstly, Dennerle products are very expensive. There are plenty of cheaper and equally effective ferts available. Secondly, the products you're using now are not helpful for a new tank.

When you resume fert, start at half dose and see how your tank reacts to it for a weeks. Then adjust accordingly.

[geoffrey]

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On 8/20/2002 5:04:55 PM

I just went and checked the Dennerle website about your ferts.

E15
Iron fertilizer for all aquatic plants
- Is a secure aid in the event of iron-induced chlorosis
- Ensures your plants have radiantly healthy, rich colours.
- Promotes plant growth and the formation of green leaves
- Works immediately.

You do not need this yet. Have read that iron can contribute to algae. The browning could be due to this too. I've noticed increased brown stuff in my filter and pipes whenever I use iron.

A1
Aquaria with particularly high nutrient requirements need additional fertilization. The newly developed A1 aquaria daily fertilizer provides all the aquatic plants with a valuable multi-mineral concentrate each day.

The nutrient requirements are increased in the aquarium if there is a lot of water movement, a large amount of filtering, a high water temperature or a long period of illumination. A1 is administered every day to ensure that the aquatic plants are provided with all they need for strong growth in spite of this: 4 drops per 100 litres of aquarium water. Hence, if you add “4 drops per hundred” in addition to the basic fertilizers (E15 and V30) then you can be sure that your aquascape has everything it needs to ensure wonderful growth even if the aquarium has high nutrient requirements.

You definitely do not have high nutrient requirements at the moment, and imo, not for the combo of plants you have right now. Stick to the basic stuff like E15 and V30 when you resume fert. A1 is for when you have LOTS of nutrient hungry plants.

Ummm, who recommended E15 and A1 to you? Firstly, Dennerle products are very expensive. There are plenty of cheaper and equally effective ferts available. Secondly, the products you're using now are not helpful for a new tank.

When you resume fert, start at half dose and see how your tank reacts to it for a weeks. Then adjust accordingly.
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Hi Vinz,

No one recommended me Dennerle. When I started this about a month ago, most info I read from books and the Net. Only knew they were very expensive later on.

Fortunately, I came across Juggler's website and he helped alot and told me about Dr Mallick's and JBL. In fact, he recommended me to join this forum and it was great! I owe alot to Juggler for the progress I am making now, really gratefully. Was really very disappointed with myself back then before he came to help.

I have stop fertilising since the last time you advised. Not a drop at all. Yes, my Glossostigma's roots are rotting. Trimmed them yesterday. I also added 3 species (H.polysperma, Egenia densa and B. carolinana) easy and hardy plants to help lower the nitrate quickier.

If fact, I also realised that I have ID my plants wrongly after checking with Teo.

Till then, thanks nce again Vinz.

Geoffrey

[Simon]

geoffrey, could the changing of forms (emersed to submersed) be mistaken as rotting/browning?

[vinz]

Geoffrey please check your Private Messages.

[geoffrey]

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On 8/22/2002 9:39:43 AM

geoffrey, could the changing of forms (emersed to submersed) be mistaken as rotting/browning?
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Hi Simon,

It could be but I really do not know. But I do know they were emersed before I brought them. Does it mean that emersed plants transplanted into a submersed environment will have this happening?

Geoffrey

[geoffrey]

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On 8/22/2002 11:03:30 AM

Geoffrey please check your Private Messages.
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Hi Vinz,

How do I check my private messages? Please advise.

Geoffrey