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Thread: Leaves turning brown

  1. #1
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    Leaves turning brown

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    help... my Hydrocotyle leucocephala has leaves that are turning brown around the egdes.
    its directory under the light 18W. tank 5G.
    have base fert. tank setup 4 days ago.

  2. #2
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    Leaves turning brown

    help... my Hydrocotyle leucocephala has leaves that are turning brown around the egdes.
    its directory under the light 18W. tank 5G.
    have base fert. tank setup 4 days ago.

  3. #3
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    Leaves turning brown

    help... my Hydrocotyle leucocephala has leaves that are turning brown around the egdes.
    its directory under the light 18W. tank 5G.
    have base fert. tank setup 4 days ago.

  4. #4
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    Leaves turning brown

    help... my Hydrocotyle leucocephala has leaves that are turning brown around the egdes.
    its directory under the light 18W. tank 5G.
    have base fert. tank setup 4 days ago.

  5. #5
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    Any CO2 for the tank? Temperature? Look out for new growth..if there is new growth then the plant is trying to get use to the conditions in the new tank by shedding its old leaves. Good luck! []
    Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger

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    the tank is running on DIY co2. temp is high, around 29-31'C
    yes, there is new growth of tiny leaves....
    meanwhile i'm snipping off any brown leaves i see.....

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    ----------------
    On 10/8/2002 10:30:41 PM

    help... my Hydrocotyle leucocephala has leaves that are turning brown around the egdes.
    its directory under the light 18W. tank 5G.
    have base fert. tank setup 4 days ago.
    ----------------
    Only this plant affected? New or old leaves turning brown?
    Have you checked you do not have carbon pad or Zeolite (stuff that removes ammonia) in your filter?
    koah fong
    Juggler's tanks

  8. #8
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    "help... my Hydrocotyle leucocephala has leaves that are turning brown around the egdes.
    "

    I hope the following will help you identify your problem. Although it is used to troubleshoot hydroponic plants, but since all plants share the same physiology, they should work (I find it pretty accurate).

    Nutritional disorders can be quickly pinpointed by the use of this dichotomous key. In this key, a decision must be made at each alternative route and finally a single explanation is given at the end. For eg. The first decision to make is effects on older leaves (A) versus effects on younger upper leaves (AA). Once this choice is made, a series of choices follows. The next step is (B) versus (BB), depending on whether the previous choice is (A) or (AA). Then, (C) versus (CC), (D) versus (DD) and so forth. Note that (A) and (AA) help determine whether you should use path 1 or path 2.

    PATH ONE – MACRO-NUTRIENT
    (A) – Older or lower leaves mainly affected, effects may occur on one part (localized) or over the whole plant (generalized).
    (B) – Effects are generalized, drying or firing of lower leaves.
    (C) – Plant light green, lower leaves yellow, drying to light brown colour, stalks slender and short if element is deficient in later growth stages. ----- NITROGEN
    (CC) – Plant dark green, often develops red and purple colour, lower leaves sometimes yellow, drying to greenish brown or black. ----- PHOSPHORUS
    (BB) – Effects mostly localized, mottling or chlorosis, with or without spots of dead tissue on the lower leaves, little or no drying up of lower leaves.
    (C) – Molted or chlorotic leaves, typically may redden, sometimes with dead spots, tips and margins turned and cupped upwards, stalk slender. ----- MAGNESIUM
    (CC) - Molted or chlorotic leaves with large or small spots of dead tissue.
    (D) – Spot of dead tissue small, usually at tips and between veins, more marked at margins of leaves. ----- POTASSIUM
    (DD) – Spots generalized, rapidly enlarging, theycommonly affect areas between veins and eventually spread to affect the veins also, leaves thick, stalks develop shortened internodes. ----- ZINC

    PATH TWO – MICRO-NUTRIENT
    (AA) – Newer or bud leaves affected, symptoms localized.
    (B) – Terminal bud dies, following appearance of distortions at tips or bases of young leaves.
    (C) - Young leaves of terminal bud at first hooked, finally dying back at tips and margins, stalk finally dies at terminal bud. ----- CALCIUM
    (CC) – Young leaves of terminal bud become light green at bases and finally break down here, in later growth, leaves become twisted, stalk finally dies back at terminal bud. ----- BORON
    (BB) – Terminal bud commonly remains alive.
    (C) - Young leaves permanently wilted without spotting or marked chlorosis, stalk just below tip often bend over in acute deficiency. ----- COPPER
    (CC) – Young leaves not wilted.
    (D) - Dead spots scattered over leaf, smallest veins remain green, producing a checkered effect. -----MANGANESE
    (DD) Dead spots not commonly present, chlorosis may or may not involve veins, veins are light or dark green in colour.
    (E) – Young leaves and veins light green or yellow in colour. ----- SULPHUR
    (EE) – Young leaves chlorotic, main veins typically green, stalks short and slender. -----IRON

  9. #9
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    I discovered that Hydrocotyle leucocephala thrives with nutrient rich water column.

    Mine was struggling when I was pruning it quite severely. Recently, I have an incident when my NO3 and PO4 shot up(20ppm & 40ppm respectively). It is now having a tremedous growth. It grew about 2~3 inches in a week! and the leaves are larger compared to previously..

    BC

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    Hmmm... co-relates with my experience...

    Had some in a planted tank in my old office. Base fert only, planted with H. difformis, java fern, crypts and echinodoruses. H. leucocephala did very badly and died eventually.

    Transferred part of the plant to my old office newt tank. 15inch tank, half water, 1ft fl tube, anubias and some moss on a emersed driftwood, Eden 316 and very infrequent and irregular water change. The plant thrived. The only form of fert was rotting driftwood, newt pee and whatever comes with feeding frozen bloodworms.

    Tried some in my home newt tank... which has 0 nitrates. It did not last very long.

    You might want to try again when your tank matrues or start adding a reduced dose of liquid fert. Your tank being so new probably does not have a lot of nutrients it can use.
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