If you don't mind me asking, what mode do you usually use when shooting? What are the shuttle speeds and apertures generally used (you are using a 105mm now right?)
Edit: I just seen the EXIF of your previous trip.
Generally, to minimize hand shake, try to use this formula for shuttle speed when shooting.
1/(focal length x crop factor) or at the very least 1/focal length.
If you find the background too dark, up your ISO. This formula will help your stableness by a huge mile even when hand held. The other concern should be getting the insects in focus as the wind blows.... something that even using a tripod can' help.
For aperture size, most macro photographers recommend f8-f11 as it is generally the sharpest.
Try it, you will be amaze of the result yourself.
I assume you mean that you are worrying that the working distance from you to the subject will be reduced when you go FX/full frame?
note that minimum focusing distance, working distance, magnification, etc are all optical property of the lens itself, regardless of the body you are using.
eg the canon 100mm has a 30cm minimum focus distance, at which point it gives a 1:1 magnification (i.e. a 1cm object will be projected onto the sensor/film plane at 1cm actual image size). whether you use it on a 1.6x of full frame body, it will still give a minimum focus distance of 30cm, at a 1:1 magnification.
now the only difference here is that the subject image (eg 1cm) will appear smaller in relation to the sensor frame on a full frame body.
simple conclusion: crop factor and sensor size does not affect any of the optical property derived from the lens design itself.
why I don't do garden hybrids and aquarium strains: natural species is a history of Nature, while hybrids are just the whims of Man.
hexazona · crumenatum · Galleria Botanica
Billy
That's an interesting video.....
I shoot at f11 for macro although there have been times that I forgot. I shoot mostly aperture priority. Will take note of the focal length and shuttle speed...What you advised is really the fundamentals of photogrpahy and it's quite embarassing that sometimes I can forget it....
I am into Plecos now...
L46, L173, L134 & L236
~~Jeffrey~~
Jeffrey,
I think if you're really into macro, you should get the closeup speedlight system - R1 or R1C1 if you plan to upgrade to D3 later. Also remember to get the 200mm Macro Nikkor lens and make sure you bring it out on our next trip so that I can borrow.
But seriously, I am also looking at the R1 speedlight system. I think it may be a good tool but for $700+++ I am still seriously considering if I really need it or not. As for getting close to subjects, I find dragonfly not a problem. Butterflies, I don't know. I usually can get pretty close to dragonfly, sometimes even touch it. And if all else fails, I use a 2x extender for the 105mm and that's usually enough.
- Luenny
Yeah, so there you go Jeff. You don't need the 200mm macro, just pass it to me and I'll help you use it.
- Luenny
Luenny
I am still considering the RC1. As for the 200mm, I heard rumours that a new one is going to be launched at the PMA.. Well, i may just line that up in one of the must haves for 2008
I am into Plecos now...
L46, L173, L134 & L236
~~Jeffrey~~
Sb800 can be set as master or slave. If set as master it can trigger flash off wirelessly.
I want to see pictures...
You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung
Billy,
wah your boss so good one arh?
great,will see this sunday how the lens perform.
******
Richard
******
Canon 20D 100mm Macro EF-S 18-55mm EF-S 55-250mm EF-400mm f5.6 Speedlite 550EX 2x420EX ST-E2
http://www.trident.smugmug.com/
Canongrapher as oppose to a nikongrapher?
******
Richard
******
Canon 20D 100mm Macro EF-S 18-55mm EF-S 55-250mm EF-400mm f5.6 Speedlite 550EX 2x420EX ST-E2
http://www.trident.smugmug.com/
canongrapher as in canongraphers.org?
why I don't do garden hybrids and aquarium strains: natural species is a history of Nature, while hybrids are just the whims of Man.
hexazona · crumenatum · Galleria Botanica
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