What I can think of is you kill the BB colony in the filter during the water change somehow.
What I can think of is you kill the BB colony in the filter during the water change somehow.
In a short span, there shouldn't be ammonia poisoning (unless you have disturbed the gravel during water change and caused the waste to free float into the water). as mentioned above, large water change may affect the BB colony and thus a chain reaction taking place, but this should take a longer time for the poisoning to happen.
AA24,
A water change resets the water chemistry in your tank. However, very large water changes > 75% will affect your resident BB colony in your tank. I am trying to understand where you are getting at? Is ammonia showing up in your test kits ? How much ppm are you looking at ? Does your water source itself contains ammonia some how ? If so where it is from ...
Thanks to All for your response..
I posted the above after I read this
"Symptoms of ammonia poisoning are gasping at the surface for quite a while before they succumb. So quick death without showing symptoms of gasping at the surface points AWAY from ammonia or CO2 poisoning. Any ammonia readings you get may be due to the dead fishes" ... by Vinz
in one of the post.. http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...nia#post321926
I had a recent incident where I had made a large water change and the water I used was conditioned for both chlorine and chloramine.. hence I discounted the death of the BB and the subsequent consequences of that..
After the water change.. many of the fish were breathing at the surface.. and after a couple of hours some were barely able to keep their balance..
I thought it might be a swing in the PH.. but I could not confirm it because I had not taken a reading before the water change..
Many of the fish died.. all within 6hrs.. Only the boraras brigittae had no casualty.. Oddly.. all my shrimp survived..
So..... I am perplexed....
Jerry
Hi
I think what Vinz later explained was that the chloramine undergoes a chemical reaction when conditioner is added to break down into chlorine and bound ammonia.
Under normal cirumcstances this bound ammonia is broken down by the biological filter slowly as it dissociates to free ammonia after it has been added to your tank.
Therefore a situation that may arise with aged water in which the bound ammonia has had time to dissociate into free ammonia in your storage container. Thus when added to your tank in a large enough volume you end up with a paradoxical ammonia spike that your biological filter may not be able to deal with, causing fish death.
At least that's what I understood
Most LFS pple hae told me that you should never change more than 50% at a go even in crisis, and usually 30% for a normal change.
Think 75% is rather drastic.
Guys,
So let me summarised, you are experiencing poisoning upon water changes ? Do you guys aged water, test them before adding them to the main tank? I usually aged water for about a week adding sechem prime and sechem equilibrium.
I just added Nutrafin anti-cholrine before adding tap water. Was taught by NA! So far so good.
Good, Chan gives very good advise most of the time and is vey helpful.
It happens to me before.
What I did was I go for only 10% water change. After 6+ hours, I go for another 10% water change. This goes on for 3 days.
At least there is some buffer time for the BB to regenerate during the 6+ hours. Not a lot of time, but at least it works.
Another simpler way out is just use the Ammonia down solution, available in all LFS.
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