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Thread: Fish Tank Photography questions

  1. #1
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    Fish Tank Photography questions

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    Hi all,

    Would like to ask, when taking photos of your fish tank/aquascape.
    Do you use diffuser or lightbox for your flash?
    Chee Yong

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    if you do not have enough flash then lightbox will help alots
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

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    If you have enough flash, do you use diffusers ? which type ?

    Thanks
    Chee Yong

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    If I'm shooting fish and not the tank, I use nither.
    - Luenny

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    either way I use diffuser
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

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    thanks all for the reply.
    Will try out different settings.
    Chee Yong

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    Bigger diffuser, softer light but less light.

    I normally would use diffuser on the light for a bit more oomph. The whole diffuser thing works but it makes the setup look like a cloudy day situation. Not enough contrast IMO.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

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    Anyone consider the alternative of not necessarily using flash but extending exposure time as part of the overall concept? I remember coming across one of the IAPLC winning works in previous years which did just that, the fishes created a fuzzy patterns reminiscent of winds, and it caught the attention of the panels. It left quite an impression on me
    Bern still suck at Water Chemistry + Plant Names

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    Does capture a different look but most prefer to see some water ripple frozen not to mention that $2 X100 tetras bought clearly. Long shutter speeds also make fine bubbles streak. Plants moving because of the ripples blur as well though not as severely. Overall, it's nice and artistic but it becomes a photography factor.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    Does capture a different look but most prefer to see some water ripple frozen not to mention that $2 X100 tetras bought clearly. Long shutter speeds also make fine bubbles streak. Plants moving because of the ripples blur as well though not as severely. Overall, it's nice and artistic but it becomes a photography factor.
    That was way before frozen water ripple became popular and accssible to everyone I think it was one of the prizes in 2003
    Bern still suck at Water Chemistry + Plant Names

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    I think the 2006 Grandchamp also featured blurred rummy noses but overall sharp shot.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

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    The technique used for the slightly blurry effect is aperture priority based slow second curtain sync. It freezes the image after a slightly longer exposure to fix the sharper final image. Often used for low light photography.

    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

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    Quote Originally Posted by benny View Post
    The technique used for the slightly blurry effect is aperture priority based slow second curtain sync. It freezes the image after a slightly longer exposure to fix the sharper final image. Often used for low light photography.

    Cheers,
    Eh, to put it with respect to planted tank as subject, in layman terms does it mean flash first to capture sharp planted scape image, followed by slightly longer exposure to capture ambient light, which reduces faster moving fishes to blurry streaks?
    Bern still suck at Water Chemistry + Plant Names

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    No, usually a rear curtain sync is preferred. Means, shutter open and expose a little for ambient[incl streaks] then a short burst of flash to complete the exposure and freeze the fish.

    This is because the fish is usually moving forward, so you see the streak behind the fish. As for the old grandchamp entry with the green neons, that one didn't look like it used flash photography. This technique only works for bright shiny colourful fish IMO. Anything medium dark would look dirty. Black fish will make the bg. look smudged.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    No, usually a rear curtain sync is preferred. Means, shutter open and expose a little for ambient[incl streaks] then a short burst of flash to complete the exposure and freeze the fish.

    This is because the fish is usually moving forward, so you see the streak behind the fish. As for the old grandchamp entry with the green neons, that one didn't look like it used flash photography. This technique only works for bright shiny colourful fish IMO. Anything medium dark would look dirty. Black fish will make the bg. look smudged.
    Point noted Stan. Will need to experiment for consideration as part of concept for the next layout to come. Yes, I think the old grandchamp likely to open his shutter a tat longer, and likely no flash, though it looks underexposed, but good enough to capture the health of his plants.
    Last edited by Burnz; 16th Aug 2008 at 15:39.
    Bern still suck at Water Chemistry + Plant Names

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    No, usually a rear curtain sync is preferred. Means, shutter open and expose a little for ambient[incl streaks] then a short burst of flash to complete the exposure and freeze the fish.
    How do you do this? I mean how to set the flash to do this? Do you happen to know Canon flash setting
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

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    Hi Robert, it's set in-camera.
    It was invented way before red eye reduction if I'm not mistaken!
    I think it would be together with the anti-red eye menu/knobs.
    To check if it's the right setting, set the shutter[shutter priority] to 1sec with this setting on, your flash would fire ~1 second after you depress shutter. With your camera locked on a tripod of course.

    Burns, I think he did a good job and he's a grand champ!
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

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    Stan, no question he did well, still in my head 5 years from then, and still learning from him now lol. :lol
    Bern still suck at Water Chemistry + Plant Names

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    -Robert
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