Advertisements
Aquatic Avenue Banner Tropica Shop Banner Fishy Business Banner
Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 123456 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 163

Thread: Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Advertisements
    Fresh n Marine aQuarium Banner

    Advertise here

    Advertise here
    .
    Here's one reason I really like using scrubber without a skimmer. My purple gorg and red feather star stay open and extended all day and night, even though they naturally do so only during the night. But since there is no skimmer removing organics (food), and since the scrubber adds pods to the water all day, not only do they eat well, but they do so 24/7. Note: You cannot keep filter feeders likes these if you have a skimmer...



    Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/My90starAndGorg.jpg
    .
    .

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Stages of an aquarist's happiness with a scrubber:

    1. The day you see the first very light-brown color on the screen.
    2. The day you see the screen covered left to right, top to bottom.
    3. The day AFTER you think you saw your N or P test go down. Because that day after, you tested again to be sure.
    4. The day you realized, for sure, that the the piece of filtration equipment you removed last week was really and truely not needed.
    5. The day you finally realize that the N and P problems you've been fighting for (weeks, months, years) are finally gone.
    5. The day another aquarist asks you, "How did you do it?"

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    .

    .
    .
    .
    .
    Text Version:

    Nutrients, part 3

    The amount of Inorganic Nitrate and Inorganic Phosphate that a scrubber removes is directly controlled by how much light-power hits the scrubber:

    1" - The light-power is full strength.
    4" - At 4" distance, the same bulb power has to cover four times the area, so the power per square inch is only 25 percent of what is was (reduced 75&#37.
    6" - At 6" distance, the same bulb power has to cover nine times the area, so the power per square inch is only 11 percent of what is was (reduced 89%).

    This is why placing the bulb very close to the scrubber is extremely important.
    .
    .

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Reminder of the Day: Proper Flow


    While not as important as how strong and near the bulb is, proper flow has shown to help a lot. Before Mrobo770131 on the UR site got things tuned properly, his flow looked like this:




    Zennzzo on the MFK site, however, got it perfect from the start:





    The trick is to have 35 gph (adjustable) for every inch width of the screen. And this is assuming your waterfall pipe has a slot. If your pipe uses drilled holes (not recommended) then you will use less.
    .
    .
    .
    .

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    .
    "Sly" on the SWF site, who built a scrubber into a kitchen trash can (including a mechanical surge), gets the award for the biggest scrubber harvest so far on any site:
















  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Today's success story comes from "BearUSA" on the TR site. He did what many folks call the "combined" approach... using lots of things in addition to his scrubber to help eliminate his nuisance algae. Wish he had more pics, but here is the before:





    And after:


    Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/User...ingReef-10.jpg


    Here is his setup:




    And here is what he said along the way:

    8/21: this guide is awesome, i,m gonna be building me one of these as soon as i get some time to myself, thanks for posting this so everyone can see and share.

    9/10: what is the best way to get rid of nuisance algae, despite regular water changes and picking this stuff off the rocks it keeps growing back, my nitrates are 0ppm confirmed with 2 different test kits. my phosphates are also 0ppm with different tests. i have since set up a turf algae screen but that has only been running for a day and a half so its not working yet.

    9/10: [waterfall pipe is] just an ordinary gravel vac pipe, fed by my external canister filter, the light is above at the mo i need to go out and buy some brackets and 2 light fixtures so i can have a light either side of screen, the other end of the gravel vac pipe has a water tight access plug, so i can still get in to clean the pipe. this nuisance algae just keeps on growing despite regular water changes picking it off the rocks, this stuff is ugly no matter what i do it just dont wont to disapear, this turf filter is my last resort.

    9/13: i am determined to get this right but sometimes its so disheartning to see a tank that you try your very best to get things right to just keep getting covered in crap algae.

    9/18: over the last couple of days i have noticed the nuisance algae i've been suffering with is eventually starting to die off. i'm sure the second 60 litre tank that i placed my calurpa green grape and cheato are starting to take up the nutrients before the nuisance stuff, i'm so pleased today that my tank is half way to looking great again.

    9/20: i have done 2 small water changes whilst siphoning out as much as possible, i'm quite glad now i,m eventually getting back on track, my water is crystal clear all params are spot on, i had feared of water turning a bit yellowy with the release off the nutrients from the dying algae but i have had none of that. [...] hopefully fingers crossed i,ve got a hold on this now.

    9/23: [answering "how did you do it"]: it could be a number of elements, i took on board all the advice which i received which im totally greatful for, i set up a 60 litre tank next to my main dt and filled it with a 4 inch deep sand bed, plus added culurpa green grape and cheato, i set up a temporary turf algae filter as suggested by Santa Monica in his thread under mega powerful nitrate and phosphate remover, i have continuously picked at the stuff and used a toothbrush to gently wipe over the rocks and inside the nooks and crannys, no doubt scaring my fish half to death, the only thing i haven't done yet is to replace the skimmer, i should say upgrade the skimmer, currently running a red sea pro prism, i had advice to get rid of it and get a better one. and also added another koralia 2 to improve water circulation which i placed at the bottom of dt to serge current over sand bed. increased slightly the amount of water i take out for water change, from about 90litres to about 125litres every 2 to 3 weeks. on the whole it could be any number of things i have done if not all, and once again i would like to thank all of you for your advice and recommendations.

    10/6: this thread is really getting interesting now with all the different people posting and for santa monica posting pics of the scrubbers, etc. GOOD WORK SANTA MONICA KEEP IT UP

    10/9: i,ve nearly cracked it, this nuisance algae have a look at these pics to see, i'm over the moon its nearly all gone.

    10/16: i've been running my scrubber for about a month and a half now, n and p are zero, i have always had a zero n and p reading using the salifert test kits, but when i had that nuisance algae problem i was told the kits were registering zero because it was quite possible that the algae were taken it all in. if that makes any sense. ps another note i'd like to thank you again for your hard work and commitmant in keeping this thread a live and with the great pics your posting up, keep up the good work, without your posting of this thread i wouldn't have even known about these turf filters, so once again a BIG THANKYOU.
    .
    .

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    .
    Update of the Day:

    It's been recently discovered that the screen-wrapped-around-pipe design will clog up and stop working when the algae gets thick. It grows heavily where the screen is wrapped at the top, and blocks further flow from going down the screen. Instead the flow starts going out the ends, completely missing the entire screen, thus killing what algae was previously growing on screen. It affects different screens in varying amounts; the higher the lights are (thus closer to the wrap), the more it clogs. This is the type I'm referring to:


    .
    .

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Today's success story is from "keifer1122" on the RS site. He got the pre-grown screen from Inland Aquatics, and put a powerful bulb on both sides (even though the screen comes only one-sided, he wanted it to grow on the other side too.) His results took six weeks. Here are his comments, highly edited for readability:

    9/23: its a pre grown screen from IA. [...] my nitrates are up, its only been 2 weeks and it looks like there at a stand still, but im feeding heavily, lot of anemones in there. also where the light is the brightest theres a certain type of algae that looks like an oil spill , its got a rainbow of colors yellowish greenish brown. also no yellowing in my water. [...] i run a skimmer just cause my numbers are up there, but when there down to nuthing then ill remove.






    its a 75g with 29g sump, the lights i use are 40 watt cfls comparable to 150w, but today i picked up the big daddy cfl 65 watt/300 watt comparable 3,900 lumens. so i cleaned yesterday to the point where everything was off except for the red turf that didnt come off, plus i want that to grow i think. but the screen was bare and today the screen is covered. been in for 2 weeks, not much growth the first week. but adjusted to my tank and now my first week cleaning was about the same growth that grew (lol) in one day. [...] right now i have toooo many fish... a buddy i work with was gettin out and i bought his liivestock and equip...

    yellow tang
    hippo tang
    big royal gramma
    blue green chromis
    2 clownfish
    mandarin
    coral beauty
    small bangaii cardinal

    ...and i only have about 35 lbs of liverock, maybe. thats pushin it. 2" sandbed, run an undersized skimmer, i think euro reef made for 55g. i test with api nitrate test, and i lost the color chart, but yellow good, red bad, im orange. and since ive been testing it looks like its getting a lighter color. [It] was usually just goin up everyday, but with the new light i think that will speed up the growing process.

    9/26: i cleaned monday and today is friday, and i have to clean again. [...] the other side is getting there, still needs to catch up tho. [...] no lights on a timer, runnin it for 24/7. [although should be changed to 18 hours ON, and 6 hours OFF]. pump is on a timer, 30 [seconds] on 30 off, its just that the screen from IA was one sided and thats why the other side has to catch up.

    10/23: just chimming in to say my n and p are undetectable.(!)

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Reminder of the Day: Less Maintenance

    If less maintenance is a requirement, then you want an oversize screen; try 2X normal size, with 2X the number of lights. This should be able to go 2X as long before a cleaning is needed. The limiting factor might be the pods; at some point they may make big holes in the algae (or not; you will have to test). This is a great thing for someone to try out. Just remember that the additional screen space will need the same lighting that the current screen has.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    .
    Many folks have been asking about the solar setup. Well that fellow is the success story of the day. "Bob the (reef)builder" on the MASA site originally set up this screen that I posted a few weeks ago:



    Here are his updates:

    9/21: Thank you for the input Santa monica, I will definately be doing this on an expanded basis. I think I will put a three ft tank in the sun and do what you've got on a slightly larger scale. Great simple fix to an ongoing problem by most aquarists.

    9/28: The film is plastic and gets wet totally. Its 1m x 1m in size. The water input is also the stand. The strands run diagnally which makes the water flow very nicely. I'm happy with it and will let it stand in the sun. Hopefully get rid of the hair algae problem I have. You should see my actual tank to know why I jumped at this idea. The construction is so easy though. And if it works a quarter as well as Santa says it does, it will be like Christmas.

    10/19: I changed this one as the upright design did not get enought sun. I put it on a 45degree angle and that was better:



    10/25: It worked like a bomb. Phosphates down to 0.02 - 0.01 ppm (this is on a hanna meter and is very low). Normal test would just read undetectable. [Previously] the best I ever got it to trying every trick in the book including Zeo and Vodka, Lanthinum and many other phosphate removers was 0.03.
    .

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Update Of The Day: Growth Progression

    Blank screens usually start off with a light brown slime of diatoms, unless the water is really high in nitrate and phosphate, in which it might start with dark spots. After a few weeks, green slime or green hair will usually grow. And from that point on, it will be a mix of brown and green, all of which is easily cleaned off. After a few months, however, and if you have enough light (and maybe pulsed flow), you may start seeing real red/brown turf, or possibly bright green turf. You'll know that they are turf because they won't come off no matter what you do, except with a razor blade.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    .





    Text Version:

    There should not be any bubbles if a scrubber is set up correctly with smooth flow into the water below. But if you have too many bubbles, make sure the bottom of the screen goes all the way down below the waterline, so there is no waterfall off the bottom, and design the scrubber with an "under over under" divider section like some people use in sumps.
    .
    .

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    .
    Results Of The Day:

    Corinna on the AC site: "Think we should just call you Santa!! After 3 weeks my screen is forming wine red spots, the pods are having pod parties and making babies, the seahorses are noticeably gaining weight and the water is decidedly 'sparklier'.Thanks."

    jfdelacruz on the RP site: "Overfeeding does wonders! i dont know how and why but, the ATS seems to be an extra 20 gallons for my tank because even if I overfeed, nothing in my tank seems to be going bad! water is always crystal clear too! (I do have seagel in there running for about 2 months already) this ATS is a blessing."
    .
    .

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    .





    Text Version: Nutrients, part 4

    Our Tanks: High Inorganic Nutrients, Low Organic Nutrients.
    The Ocean: Low Inorganic Nutrients, High Organic Nutrients.



    Previous Versions:

    http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients1.jpg
    http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients2.jpg
    http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Nutrients3.jpg
    .
    .
    .

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Reminder Of The Day:

    If you are home when a power outage occurs, then just like you would manually try to oxygenate your tank, you would also take the screen out and set it in some water (even tap water in the sink.) Problem solved, no damage. It can sit there for two days with no ill effects. You could even put it in a shallow pan of water outside in the sun, where it will probaby grow

    If you are not home, however, it becomes a question of which you lose first, your screen or your whole display. Long term (days) you are going to lose both, so we'll look at short term (hours). Somewhere in-between is the question: If you are not home when the power goes out for 2, 3, 4, 5 hours, etc., then how much of your screen will you lose, and how much of the nutrients will be "released" back into the water?

    Well, most screens are designed to be up and out-of-contact with the water, so there will be zero "release" of nutrients during the power-outage. And floating screens that stay in contact with the water will not die or release nutrients at all in a short-term outage, because they stay wet. So immediate release of nutirents is not a factor in any situation.

    The real question is long term loss of filtering, i.e., how much of the screen will die off during the outage. When you get back home, the screen has been drying for a few hours, but is still moist. What you do is put it in your sink with water and give the dead parts a chance to fall off. Not sure of how much time is needed, but just do a regular cleaning of the screen every few hours until it seems that most of the dead stuff is removed. Doing this in the sink will prevent any nutrients from getting back into the tank. You then put the screen back into operation, and it's no different than if you just did a regular cleaning. And this is the worst case.

    I myself unplugged the wrong plug once and left the screen 6 hours with no flow. The fan was still on, but the lights were off at the time. It was all still moist, yet a bit hardened. I did not think at the time to remove the outer layers of dead stuff, so I just put it back into operation right way. What happened was the next day or two there was a very slight increase in N from zero (clear Salifert) to a very slight pink; probably got up to about .5 or 1. P did not ever increase, however. And this was without properly removing the dead stuff. So overall, I don't think power outages are really that eventfull for scrubbers.

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    30
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Hi SantaMonica

    due to space constraint i cannot place the algae screen vertical.
    instead i place the algae filter lay flat on a rectangle box and then i drill one big hole at the bottom of the box and from the hole the water will flow back to the tank. like to hear your opinion. tks.


  17. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Yes that will work. Make the screen twice as big, since is only lit on one side.

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Results Of The Day:

    "pong" on the RP site: "Still havent cleaned my screen... and no water change... no problems! im just killing the pods by dosing kalk and all my top-off on the screen (since early october, no cleaning of the screen, last water change... august? september?)

    "jski711" on the RS site: "the last phosphate test I had done at the lfs it was undetectable on the hanna phosphate photometer, and I only have the one side of my screen lit for now!!!"

    "col" on the UR site: "Todays tests are P = 0.03, N = 5. the algae looks the same, green slime. Skimmer is still running 24/7, feeding 2-3 times a day for fat fish. Algae on the rocks is subsiding, and water conditions have never been better."

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    .
    Today's build of the day is from "Bob the (reef)builder" on the MASA site, the same fellow who made the outdoor scrubber. He now is the first one to build the acrylic Santa Monica version for his own tank. Here is the original layout I posted a while back:





    (It's currently the only filter of any kind on my tank.)

    Here is Bob's version of the same thing; It's 4 feet long, using 2 T5's on each side:








  20. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    221
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    United States
    Another reefer with a good camera offered to take pics and vids of my display, but until we can arrange for that, here are some sump shots with my old 2meg camera:









Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 123456 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •