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Thread: Fundulopanchax sjoestedi "Dwarf Red"

  1. #1
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    Fundulopanchax sjoestedi "Dwarf Red"

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    I've found something about the SJO and would like to share with you guys....

    Look at the first picture and then compare to the second picture. In fact, the 2 images are from the same fish. The first picture is taken with flash and the second without flash..





    The SJO will show a brownish colour when the light is cast directly on the fish. Without light, the SJO will show a blue colour on the body..

    What an interesting fish!

    Au SL

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    Au, this is a very common phenomena, many fishes exhibit colours or intensity not usually seen under aquarium light. Many of my licorice gourami for example, show fairly pale colours but the flash photographs turn out to be briliantly coloured. I believe this is because camera flash is very close to sunlight in composition.

    Also when flash is used, there is usually little need to colour correct, whereas without flash the green cast from plants and glass is quite strong and this needs to be compensated on the pictures.
    why I don't do garden hybrids and aquarium strains: natural species is a history of Nature, while hybrids are just the whims of Man.
    hexazona · crumenatum · Galleria Botanica

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    Quote Originally Posted by hwchoy
    Au, this is a very common phenomena, many fishes exhibit colours or intensity not usually seen under aquarium light. Many of my licorice gourami for example, show fairly pale colours but the flash photographs turn out to be briliantly coloured. I believe this is because camera flash is very close to sunlight in composition.
    But when you look at the fish from top with the aquarium light, they will also show you the brownish colour. It's not only when the imager are taking using flash. That's why I mention about the uniqueness of this fish.

    You know what I mean?

    From top with light, the fish is brownish and when view fron the front of the tank (with lights on) the fish will show the usual blusish colour.
    Au SL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Au SL
    But when you look at the fish from top with the aquarium light, they will also show you the brownish colour. It's not only when the imager are taking using flash. That's why I mention about the uniqueness of this fish.
    yes, that's what I thought I said, when taken with flash, many fishes shows a different or stronger colouration.

    Quote Originally Posted by Au SL
    You know what I mean?

    From top with light, the fish is brownish and when view fron the front of the tank (with lights on) the fish will show the usual blusish colour.
    mmm… I am slightly confused. with aquarium lights you see the fish as brownish (top) and bluish (side) yes? when you use a flash you see the first pic which is golden brown/purplish maroon? Yes?
    why I don't do garden hybrids and aquarium strains: natural species is a history of Nature, while hybrids are just the whims of Man.
    hexazona · crumenatum · Galleria Botanica

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    Both pictures taken without flash.



    Picture taken from the front of the tank.



    Picture taken from the top of the tank.

    Notice the top part of the fish showing the different colour! That's what I mean. It's exactly what the fish looks like......

    Hey guys who keep them would you like to confirm this!

    This is what I'm confuse when I first look at the pictures from other hobbyists when the fish shows different colour! I almost thought they're different species!
    Au SL

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    guess I should shut up since I've never even seen the fish before

    this would be one of those maniacal fish to take picture of because the colour is so variable.
    why I don't do garden hybrids and aquarium strains: natural species is a history of Nature, while hybrids are just the whims of Man.
    hexazona · crumenatum · Galleria Botanica

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    Quote Originally Posted by Au SL
    Hey guys who keep them would you like to confirm this!
    Au, I'm not sure what I have... maybe it's the 'regular' SJO (Blue Gularis?), but here's a quick shot of the bugger.

    Hopefully, the colors you're talking about is there! :wink: Bigger pic here.

    As far as I'm concerned, they're suppose to be 'young' but I'm picking eggs and I don't care what they are! Beautiful fishes, nonetheless.

    I'm not particularly happy with the pic tho and will retake during the day, when there's more natural light.
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Hi Ronnie,

    From the picture,yours also look like the dwarf red SJO.If you got some spare eggs,i would like to buy some from you Thanks.

    If anyone else have the other form of SJO and you are selling them,Please let me know.I guess my interests in killi is rekindled.
    ..............................
    When my fishes are happy, I'm happy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by francis
    From the picture,yours also look like the dwarf red SJO.If you got some spare eggs,i would like to buy some from you

    Please let me know.I guess my interests in killi is rekindled.
    Like rekindling an old flame? :wink: eh Francis, as I said, the pair is still young and I'm getting a high number of infertile eggs and also eggs that fungicised easily.

    Now trying various way of incubating and pre-incubating treatments, and see which method works best. Never try, never know!

    I'm reconditioning them now in separate tanks and hopefully, in a month or two, I hope to collect viable eggs. Crossing my fingers here.

    Let's see if I have some good news for you then.

    While the sun is up, I think I'll take another pic of it :wink:
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Haha, I`ll wait for your good news.Thank Ronnie.Good luck on the eggs.Keeping my fingers and toes crossed too. :wink:
    ..............................
    When my fishes are happy, I'm happy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by francis
    From the picture,yours also look like the dwarf red SJO.
    The DJO Ronnie has is the regular SJO. The only difference between the dwarf red and the regulat SJO is the size. Draft red will only grow to max 6cm where as the regular SJO will have a maximum size of 12cm.


    According to the information from Killidata, this fish takes 1.5years to mature and they have a lifespan of 2 years.
    Au SL

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    Oops.......... Thanks for the correction Au.
    ..............................
    When my fishes are happy, I'm happy.

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    Hey, fellas,

    When I took the pics of my SJO (VAKA), they threw up the same colour differences Au noticed. With and without flash, the colours are different.
    Here's how they look:

    With Flash


    Without Flash


    Loh K L

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    Ronnie,
    Your fish, SJO is a DRG Dwarf red Gularis, you see the red/orange in the anal fin, that is the key, the other is if there is the red tone in the rear half of the body color, this says SJO 'DRG'.

    Au SL,
    Your VAKA are of the Blue type, they lack the red tone in the body and tha anal fin is more yellow than the red/orange anal of the DRG.
    I also notice that your SJO color is very wased out, in most all the pics,
    could this be from your very warm temps in SG ??
    David Mikkelsen
    AKA #06121 SAA#172 NWK#10 GPAS#159
    http:www.thekillifishsource.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by killifishdavid
    Your fish, SJO is a DRG Dwarf red Gularis, you see the red/orange in the anal fin, that is the key, the other is if there is the red tone in the rear half of the body color, this says SJO 'DRG'.
    hmm.... so David, when does the rear half starts coloring up? I'll reshoot the male this weekend and see if any red tone shows up. Perhaps then, we'll be able to confirm whether it's a 'regular' or DRG.

    FWIW, even though the SJO pair is young, they've been throwing out eggs. Question is; should I separate the female, lest she's 'overdoing' it before maturity?

    Not wanting to waste any collected* eggs, I've been incubating them in both peat** and water. Observation: lotsa fungicized eggs!

    With water-incubated mops, I've tried some with a tad of marine salt in the water, some with peat/oak-leaf tea and straight tap water.

    To date, I've retrieved 7 frys... from mops collected '030202' (meaning 2003 Feb 2nd) and 1st fry was spotted on 6th March, which indicates a one month water incubation at 27ºC. I figure that peat incubation would drag much longer***.

    David, in your opinion, how mature should the SJO be before they start throwing out good viable eggs? (given that they're conditioned with a combo of the usual live-foods). TIA for your enlightenment.

    * Eggs collected with washed hands and picked with tweezer.
    ** Peat wetness = Langton #2 & #5
    *** Went through peat with eggs collected 030210 and found clear, transparent eggs! (diapause/resting??)
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by killifishdavid
    Au SL,
    Your VAKA are of the Blue type, they lack the red tone in the body and tha anal fin is more yellow than the red/orange anal of the DRG.
    I also notice that your SJO color is very wased out, in most all the pics,
    could this be from your very warm temps in SG ??
    David, are you referring to my fish? The last 2 pictures were taken by me.

    I'm not sure what you mean by "washed out" but I would agree the fish look a bit dull. To tell the truth, I was hoping to have the real Blue Gularis when I took part in the mass egg-buying exercise the last time. I thought I would get the eggs of the Fp. sjoestedti (Niger Delta) but when the eggs came, I realised that they were SJO (VAKA). Frankly, I don't really know the difference between the 2 but when I learnt later that the SJOs (VAKA) do not grow really big, I was terribly disappointed. When I placed my order, the top priority for me then was to get the eggs of the Killie that is known to be one of the biggest, if not the biggest, of all killies, the one the AKA uses as their logo.

    Do you have the eggs of this fish, David?

    Loh K L

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    oh David... before I forget, I've a batch of methylene blue treated eggs incubated on sponge. There's a bunch of fuzz balls but I can see 2 good developing eggs. Tony Terceira is said to have used the sponge method for the past 30+ years and the process was covered in his 1974 publication, "Killifish, Their Care and Breeding". (have not the privilege to touch the pages but this is one book I'd like to own in my personal library! Brief review at Killi.net)

    The methylene blue + peat incubation for the Blue Gularis was described in this 1998 KillieTalk response (yes, 1998!) There's also brief mention of Roger Langton's guide to peat wetness.

    References:
    "A Number System to Indicate Peat Moss Wetness" by Roger W. Langton - article hosted at Bay Area Killifish Association's site.

    "Peat wetness" by Dr. Roger D. Brousseau - Reprinted from: South American Annual Killifish Version 2.0.1, hosted at Patrick Coleman's site.
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by timebomb
    when I learnt later that the SJOs (VAKA) do not grow really big, I was terribly disappointed. Loh K L
    Loh, this fish grow as big as the usual SJO. Mine is at least 7cm now and is still growing, though it is slightly younger than my or rather Au's usual SJO, it has catch up. I think it is the diet. I start feeding them tubifex the 2nd week. IMHO BBS for fish like this is insufficient.

    The SJO(VAKA) is really aggressive, I lose many of males and females already. The dominant male went straight to the grill covers and bit off the cover and the grills! Ouch!! This is the worst I ever seen!

    Regards
    Gwee Sia Meng
    AKA 08742
    SAA 163
    Fish List

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    I find here that the SJO niger delta are the more aggresive. The SJO (VAKA) are less aggresive and a little smaller in size, both are bue type and have good colors. Aggresion is more likely due to your higher temps.
    I breed them bottom shelf here for best results which is 68 to 71 degrees,
    at these lower temps aggresion is not as much a problem. The biggest problem I have with the niger delta strain is collecting fertile eggs. A breeder pair may lay 200 eggs in a few day spawn but if I get 5 fertile eggs I am lucky, so to get a dozen good eggs it may take close to 1000 eggs layed, and this is not good. No I do not have any eggs available from the niger delta, but I will try again here tomorrow and if I can gather fertle eggs I will send them on the "bus" you could fight over them and pay me after receipt.

    Au SL recieved the leaves today in the mail, they seemed different?
    Drier or older dead leaves maybe ?? I will send back worms, but doubt
    they can survive your heat, as the ideal temp for culturing is 55 to 65 F degrees.
    David Mikkelsen
    AKA #06121 SAA#172 NWK#10 GPAS#159
    http:www.thekillifishsource.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by killifishdavid
    Au SL recieved the leaves today in the mail, they seemed different?
    Drier or older dead leaves maybe ?? I will send back worms, but doubt
    they can survive your heat, as the ideal temp for culturing is 55 to 65 F degrees.
    The leaves are very dry and this is to help to keep the weight light. The past 2 lots I sent are younger leaves and the cost more to ship. If you need more, just drop me a mail I'll be at your service. :wink:

    I know that the survival rate for the worms are very slim.

    NEVER TRY NEVER KNOW!

    If we can succeed in culturing them, it'll be another good food source for fellow hobbyists here! :wink:

    Ronnie,

    Get your media ready!
    Au SL

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