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Thread: Henri deBruyn mini wet/dry filters

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    Henri deBruyn mini wet/dry filters

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    Hi folks, don't know if anyone over there has a copy of JAKA May-June 2001 but the above filter is featured in it. I've sent an email to Lowell Patrick (audio-video guy for AKA, or was) who has videotapes of step by step construction for $18. Yeah, NTSC tapes, not PAL Hopefully someone
    in SG has dual-format VHS machines? LMK. These filters require airpumps
    to work. I imagine most of you "fishroom guys" use the excellent Japanese
    -made linear piston pumps.

    Regards,

    Bill Ruyle

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    Re: Henri deBruyn mini wet/dry filters

    Bill, I think we started having AKA members in 2002, not 2001. Being a ex-AKAer between '99~'00, I'm afraid none of us have that issue (happy to be wrong though).

    Could you email Lowell Patrick again to check if they have VCD/DVD of the same title? If that is available, I'd appreciate a copy and will remit payment for that, plus incurred expenses. Otherwise, NTSC VHS will also do.

    Yeah, NTSC tapes, not PAL. Hopefully someone in SG has dual-format VHS machines?
    I'm not sure if this sound strange to you but as early as 1984, there're people, including myself, who started owning 'multi-systems'* VHS players and also TVs that support these 'systems' or 'frequencies'.

    The term 'Multi-format'** does not apply to VHS (other than Stereo and Long Play capabilities), but to players that will playback VCD, DVD, Audio CD and even LD (the Pioneer DVL-9 is one such machine, albeit for Region 1 DVD Decoding on mine).

    In this case, I think it's not so much the 'system', but rather the 'format' that's in question here. VCDs have almost totally replaced VHS, just like it had ousted Betamax. I wouldn't be surprised, to not see a VHS recorder in homes these days... except for those who still record children programs for their kids and sports match telecasts.

    I imagine most of you "fishroom guys" use the excellent Japanese
    -made linear piston pumps.
    ... and which might that be? What I do know is that many of the LFS here uses HiBlow and it's a very reliable unit.

    *'Multi-systems' refers to PAL, NTSC 3.58, NTSC 4.43, SECAM, BG, etc.

    **'Multi-formats' It is possible to 'convert' VHS tapes to a digital VCD format, but that will infringe on copyright/ownership issues which I'd rather avoid. When I do get my hands on that tape, interested forumers can either view it at my home or take it out on a short-term loan. It would be great if those who're keen can come together and work on the 'Henri filter' as a group project!.
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Re: Henri deBruyn mini wet/dry filters

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill
    Could you email Lowell Patrick again to check if they have VCD/DVD of the same title? If that is available, I'd appreciate a copy and will remit payment for that, plus incurred expenses. Otherwise, NTSC VHS will also do.
    Would love to, except I don't have his current email address: the message I sent got bounced back. Will try killietalk (have to subscribe again) and see what I can find out.


    The term 'Multi-format'** does not apply to VHS (other than Stereo and Long Play capabilities), but to players that will playback VCD, DVD, Audio CD and even LD (the Pioneer DVL-9 is one such machine, albeit for Region 1 DVD Decoding on mine).

    I really like the new Daewoo, Philips zone-free players that recognize and
    play DVDs, VCDs, CDs, CD-R, CD-RW, etc, etc and recognize automatically what voltage outlet you plug them into, that will play over either an NTSC or PAL tv.

    I imagine most of you "fishroom guys" use the excellent Japanese
    -made linear piston pumps.
    ... and which might that be? What I do know is that many of the LFS here uses HiBlow and it's a very reliable unit.

    I was citing the ones www.jehmco.com sells in the states. I believe the brand is "Medo." They run very quiet, too.

    **'Multi-formats' It is possible to 'convert' VHS tapes to a digital VCD format, but that will infringe on copyright/ownership issues which I'd rather avoid. When I do get my hands on that tape, interested forumers can either view it at my home or take it out on a short-term loan. It would be great if those who're keen can come together and work on the 'Henri filter' as a group project!.
    I'll keep you posted! :wink:

    Bill

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    DeBruyn filter and Ken Normandin's fishroom

    Ron, et al, here's an URL to illustrate one of these filters in use in Ken
    Normandin's fishroom, one of the most successful breeders of SAAs in the
    US: http://chika.aka.org/library/tanklids/tanklids.htm hope I did this
    right. Still waiting from Lowell Patrick about the filter videotapes.

    Bill Ruyle

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    Re: Henri deBruyn mini wet/dry filters

    I have built a similar version of it.. unforunately, it does not seem to work very well for me.. very good biological wet/dry filter. Mod for some simple mechanical filtration using fine wool.. Maybe my tanks are too small to get good effect. With the amount of $$$ and time spent on building it..in the end bought some cheapo sponge filters instead.

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    Re: Henri deBruyn mini wet/dry filters

    Kenneth, could you elaborate more on how this Henri filter work? I'm keen to DIY some for my tanks and will be using air-lift, bringing water up to the filter. I'm just unclear what happens after that!

    From what I understand so far, it uses lava rock as media for the nitrifying bacteria and the returning water is like rain-drops falling into the tank... drip drip drip :wink:

    With such slow flow rate and maximum exposure to circulating air, I suspect it'll help lower temperature somewhat. I suppose a 2ºC reduction is a realistic goal and since I'm a big fan of wet/dry trickle filter and will have that running over sponge filters anyday. Maybe I can look forward to maintaining diapterons too!

    I have some unused OHF (Over Head Filter), those black colored ones that rest on the tank. Bigger pic here. These are commonly used with LouHans and Goldfish setups. I suppose some modification is necessary... but that will have to wait till I get a better idea what it's all about!
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    basics to making the filter (from memory dredge)

    Ronnie, your overhead filter reminds me of the tanks I kept in Japan 88-93
    the first time I was there. I don't think those parts will serve very well in
    what is needed (Wright can certainly correct me on any of this since he's
    built these filters):1. raingutter cut to fit down about a 3rd of its height in
    the tank with perforations on the bottom. 2. In the middle of the raingutter is drilled a larger hole to receive the *outer* tube (5/8"OD) that is glued in place and runs to the bottom of the tank where there is sponge wrapped around it as a prefilter (or commercial equivalent). 3. The inner tube 1/2"
    OD fits inside the outer tube (what a shocker :wink: ) and is 3 inches shorter than the outer tube. To this tube is affixed a v-shaped perforated
    trough that runs the length of the raingutter with lava rock running along
    both sides underneath it. 4. Place an airstone or tube down the inner tube
    to where it is close to the prefilter sponge using 3/16" hard plastic tube and
    when it is emerging from the trough use a bottle cap 1" diameter or so to
    keep the oxygenated water from shooting over the filter. Airline runs thru the middle of this cap and onto the airpump. Water bubbles up the inner tube then down the perforated trough to wet the lava rocks then drops like rain through the holes of the raingutter. Wright doesn't like the looks of these filters, and I tend to agree. The white plastic raingutter on a black-trimmed tank is not ideal. I'm going to be looking for some charcoal-gray raingutters, but may not have much luck. These filters also require tanks being topped off with RO or DI or perhaps rainwater, water with near-zero conductivity.
    HTH, till the tape shows up,

    Bill Ruyle

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    Hi Ronnie, I'll try my best to describe how it works..

    Like you mention, you'll need a container filled with lava rocks. Above the rocks, you'll need a piece of drip plate (similar to the clear plastic with lots of holes in the OHF). So using air-lift, water is being brought up to the drip plate. Water is then "spread out" and allowed to drip down the lava rocks. This creates a "wet/dry" trickle filter which the beneficial bacteria loves because of its large exposure to Oxygen. Water will just drip back into the tank like rain drops to simulate "rain" in the natural environment.

    I have a couple of problems previously. Since I'm not using a rain gutter, trying to get the water to spread out evenly is kinda tough. The other is that there should have enough depth for the water to trickle down the lava rock. I mean the effect would be greatly reduce if water only flows pass 2 piece of rocks. :wink: Of course there are stuffs which are better than lava rock but its more expensive.

    Eh.. I'm not too sure about reducing the temperature of the water, but I'll have to remind you that water does evaporate faster this way..

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    Bill, there're a couple of things I'm not interpreting right...

    Quote Originally Posted by farang9
    1. raingutter cut to fit down about a 3rd of its height in the tank with perforations on the bottom.
    How do I read this? ... that a 3rd of this 'raingutter box' is inside the tank ... or, a 3rd of the bottom inside the water? (see Fig.A)


    2. In the middle of the raingutter is drilled a larger hole to receive the *outer* tube (5/8"OD) that is glued in place
    Also, where is the position of the tube hole? Is it a Point 'A' or 'B'?
    ================================================================

    To this tube is affixed a v-shaped perforated trough that runs the length of the raingutter with lava rock running along both sides underneath it.

    Is the V-trough 'bent' from rain gutter material as well? Why a 'V' and should the trough resemble Fig.B?
    ================================================================

    4. Place an airstone or tube down the inner tube to where it is close to the prefilter sponge using 3/16" hard plastic tube and when it is emerging from the trough use a bottle cap 1" diameter or so to keep the oxygenated water from shooting over the filter.

    Whereabout should this bottle cap be... at Point 'A' or 'B'? If at Point 'A', should the pipe, running along the length over the V-trough, be drilled to drip like a rain-pipe/spray-bar?

    Airline runs thru the middle of this cap and onto the airpump.
    If this cap is at the top of the lift-tube, from where does the water enter the trough? Bill & Wright, please feel free to edit the images where applicable... a picture is worth a thousand words!
    ================================================================

    I was thinking about the V-trough which doesn't really spread the water evenly through the lava rocks. A drip plate or flat trough with multiple rows of holes, like those found in wet/dry trickle, would be better... don't you think so?

    In the illustration above (Fig.D), if water is allowed to spread, drip and flow through a wider area of lava rocks, the colonies of bacteria should be many folds more than that, which drips from the trough.
    ================================================================
    Finally, how 'slow' should this flow-rate be? Given that it's air-driven, I don't expect it anywhere near a power-head aided flow.
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill
    How do I read this? ...
    No, it will not be as fast running as a powerhead. You want to adjust the airflow to where the top of the water is being hit by a gentle rain. Does any
    of this help? Too bad there's nothing on the web to illustrate the top view of these filters.

    Bill

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    what the ????

    Haiz, type until like siao.. kenna "no post mode" error message..whatever

    Ronnie,

    Fig. A, uplift tube should be at A.
    Fig. B, V-shape will give a very even spread of water when lifted. I'll suggest using a rain-bar because holes have been neatly drilled.
    Fig. C, uplift tube in the middle. With a V-shape trough, water will spread in both directions. Bottle cap is to allow the air-tube to go down the middle of the uplift tube and prevents lifted water to spill everywhere.
    Fig. D, the second case would be ideal..but near impossible unless you can have a very flatly layed drip plate. i.e. NO SLOPE.

    Yes, flow rate is ultra slow using air lift. Fig. D also explains why I suggested to use a deep container on my earlier reply.

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    Re: what the ????

    Quote Originally Posted by MCSim
    Haiz, type until like siao.. kenna "no post mode" error message..whatever
    Kenneth, it has happened to me as well. Click 'back' to previous page and copy the entire unsent post. Then go back to the thread, hit 'Reply' and paste. Works for me... sometimes! :wink:

    Received further details from Bill and together with what both of you have described, here's another pic.

    ... ought to be it.
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    deBruyn filter

    Ronnie, that has got to be very close, if not dead-on. I wonder if it would
    be ok to have plants in that filter (like pothos, etc, with their roots trained
    down in the lava rock). It might improve the aesthetics of this filter which
    isn't exactly eye-candy

    Bill

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    Re: deBruyn filter

    Bill, you can grow aquatic plants emersed in those filter but find a species that doesn't have too massive a root system, eg. most Echinodorus will establish themselves very easily but you'd soon find roots dangling out and plugging the drainage holes. Micranthemum species has finer roots and Hydrocotyle will spread and drape over (disguise) your rain gutter filter.

    Like this?

    You might want to have the plants facing the front tho. Think hydroponics and you get the picture.
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Ronnie.. thats it!!
    Good luck! heh.. you very good at pictures..

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    Quote Originally Posted by MCSim
    Good luck! heh.. you very good at pictures..
    Kenneth, thanks! Now I can go modify one of those OHF and see if I can come up with 'real' pics. BTW, MS Paint is better than me... it can copy & paste, while I can only draw lines :wink:
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    finally found the JAKA May/June 2001 de Bruyn filter

    Ronnie,
    Some of my former info is all wet so here goes: the uplift tube is 1/2 inch
    diameter which has an 1/8inch inner tube that is glued in place 1/2 inch
    from the bottom of outer tube and sticks out 1/2 inch above the outer tube
    on the top so airline can be attached. There is no mention of an airstone
    and indeed, 1/2 inch tubing would allow little room for such. The cap fits
    over the 1/2 inch emerged inner tube allowing enough space to attach the
    airline. The V trough is pre-drilled PVC V-shaped profiling used for corner
    pieces in plaster walls (has perforations all over it). PVC profile is laid over
    the perforations in the bottom of the raingutter to prevent lava rock from
    clogging the holes. HTH

    Still don't have the tape, yet, hopefully later this week.

    Bill

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    de Bruyn filter, additional info

    Hi gang,
    Found Tyrone Genade's SAKS (South African Killifish Society) de Bruyn filter article that has a pdf version that is nearly identical to the JAKA article at http://tgenade.freeshell.org/saks/archive/1_5_2001.pdf Hope you find this informative and useful.

    Bill
    farang9

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    Ron,

    you managed to build the filter or modify the OHF?

    Do you have any idea where to get the small lava rocks?
    Zulkifli

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    Hi Ronnie,
    If you are short of OHF container, I have picked up two for you just behind one of the LFS in Serangoon north. They still looks very new.

    Regards,
    Ong Poh San

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