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Thread: Any advice for my 3ft planted tank?

  1. #1

    Any advice for my 3ft planted tank?

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    Anyone can advice me in the level of fertilzation for my 3ft tank?what are the things to adjust.
    tank parameter:
    Vol:156L (41.2Gal)
    Light: 96 watts (2x30w)+(2x18w) (on 8hrs a day on timer)
    Temp:26
    CO2:1bps (on 24hrs, coz no solenoid)
    PH:7.0
    GH:1.5
    KH:7
    FE:0.5mg/l

    Filter: Eheim Pro II
    Water Change:25% fornightly

    Fertilization Schedule
    Seachem Flourish (2 x per week)
    Seachem Iron ( 1 x per week)
    Seachem Potassium (1 x per week)
    Seachem Prophorus (1 x per week)

    Base fert-JBL

    Plants:
    1.Anubias Barterivar Nana
    2.Vesiculariadubyena (JAva moss)
    3.Vesicularia sp (christmas moss)
    4.Luduigia Arcuata
    5.Camomba caroliniana(green and red)
    6.Echvoodorus bleheri
    7.riccia

    Fishload:
    6 x discus (2 med 4 small)
    2 x SAE
    6 x otos
    6 x rummy nose
    24 x yamatos

    Thanks!!

  2. #2
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    Hi SpuD

    What my comment as follows is based on the data that you have provided and may not be total applicable in actual application...

    you may want to increase your lighting wattage to 120watts. Though you may be able to get away with the current 2.54watts per gallon, your intensity of light may suffer 6mths down the road.

    Your PH and KH level does not correspond which I believe underdosage of CO2...at KH of 7 the PH level should be around 6.8, if you need to keep it at neutral, KH should be around 10.

    If your tanks does not show any signs of rapid algae infestation, keep your fertilisation regime. Do not change the dosage as your fish load is rather high and perhaps your K input is keeping it low. Your plants however suggest that you do not need so much fert in the first place.
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  3. #3
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    how old is the tank? looking from the list of plants, u should cut back on your fertilization, apart of yr camomba, L. acurata and riccia.. can't really determine the intake level.. u should under dose first and slowly increase and observe the changes

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    With your fert regime, I think your light should be on for at least 10-12 hours instead. L. arcuata and C. caroliania are high light plants, so 120W might be better, accompanied by reduced dosing (cut by 1/2) of the Fe and P to check algae (my guess is that with all the fish (and food), the tank shouldn't be P deficient. Why is your KH rather high?

  5. #5
    Hi David,
    does that mean i should increase the co2 to 2bps?even though i leaving it on 24 hrs?
    should i cut down the dosage of flourish to once a week and the other dosage..etc FE,Potassium...as it is?

    adding in another 18watts will do the trick rite?

  6. #6
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    Hi SpuD

    it would be good if you add 1bps more by waking up as early as possible the day. This would mean that you would have given as much lights-off time allowance to measure your new PH level just before lights on. It may be good to have either a CO2 test kit or a long term CO2 indicator in your tank to be more precise.

    After the measurement if you are within the 6.8 to 6.9 range and that your fish is not showing any signs of discomfort, continue the 2bps during lights on period. Immidiately after lights off, take your PH measurement again...if you are hitting anywhere near 6.9 to 7.1..then 2bps per second should be fine.

    It will be good if you cut back your dosage by half and increase your light wattage.
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  7. #7
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    SpuD,

    Click here to see article on CO2 fertilisation and a chart on the KH and pH values.

    Do you know the PO4 (Phosphate) values for your tank? You should, if you are dosing Phosphorus. Given your bio-load, I think your tank should have enough PO4 from feeding alone.

    If you can be bothered, split your fert dosage to once every 2 days or daily.

    Other then that, is there anything really wrong with your tank?
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    No, there is nothing really "wrong" with your tank if the current condition is what you aim for and you are happy with it.
    But I'll up the CO2 a bit but considering that you dun have a solenoid, I am not sure if that is a good idea... and the fish load is rather high.
    I dun see a need to increase the light with this bioload... courting trouble. Flourescent light do loose their intensity after sometime, so you may have to change them after a while.
    Is there a need to add PO4 to your tank (considering the bioload)? and keep Fe so high? Where is the nitrate fertilizer (considering that you dose PO4)?
    Also, you may want to consider planting lots of fast growing stem plants.

    ck

  9. #9
    hi guys, side track abit,
    how do i remove the brown stuff at the tips of my plants, most prop brown algae?how to make it disappear?fall off the tip of the leaves?

  10. #10
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    Hi SpuD

    is this happening to your Anubias or Echinodorus Bleheri? Most likely due to too much light for the Anubias or that the Echinodorus Bleheri leaves have grown too near the surface and is getting too much light. Your Ottos and/or Yamatoes will be able to take care of it.
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  11. #11
    hi David,
    actually u are right, and also the BBAs are on my christmas moss leave tips too...i think my otos will do it..hopefully. thks!!

    anyway, one of my plant's leaves are melting away, what could be the cause of it?(really dunno wat plant is it) kinda of the type with broad leaves, light grren, looks like cabbage..heh... but my other plants are doing well..hmm....

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