Using anti-chlorine (photgrapher's hypo) won't change water properties a lot, but is very unwise, these days. Water departments add ammonium to make the chlorine compounds that cause cancer not form. Ammonium and chlorine form chloramines, which are a stable form that doesn't go away with time like plain chlorine.
If you add an anti-chlorine to chloramines, there will be an unhealthy burst of ammonium that can damage your fish. Use an anti-chloraminator, instead, like Amquel, Prime, or Ammo Lock 2. [I don't know which "Genesis" is. It is important that you find out.] Serious breeders prefer carbon-filter removal, for the dechloraminators all tend to kill off the useful infusoria babies need as first food.
KH rises if there are carbonates in the tank. Many gravels contain bits of shell, and some ornaments (rocks?) can raise the KH, too. The difference is usually taken care of with water changes. The rate of change can be quite slow at high pH ( and very rapid when low (5), since CaCO3, etc. are really soluble only in more acidic water.
A bit of salt is a good idea, if your GH isn't too low. It can poison both plants and fish if the total electrolytes are too low (water too soft). Otherwise it is an essential electrolyte and can act as both a tonic and a disease fighter. Your rising KH implies that the GH is probably also high enough, but I would measure to be sure you have at least a few degrees.
Don't worry if the salt is iodized, but avoid the premium brands that use silicates to keep them free flowing. That was what started the old "don't use iodized salt" myth.
Hope that helps,
Wright
01 760 872-3995
805 Valley West Circle
Bishop, CA 93514 USA
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