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Thread: ALGAE DESTROYER™ by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals

  1. #1
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    ALGAE DESTROYER™ by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals

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    Hi,

    Does anyone knows which LFS carrys the complete range of products from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals? I have seen MelaFix in a few shops, but not their other stuff.

    Apparently, Algae Destroyer by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals contains Simazine and is good for removing beard algae in planted tanks.

    Alternatively, does anyone knows of any other algae removal agent that contains Simazine?

    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

  2. #2
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    Benny,

    before you go running out to buy this stuff... try reading this article by neil frank...

    Code:
                        Chemicals to Control Algae
                           The Use of Simazine
     
           (Published in Vol 4 no. 6 (1991) of "The Aquatic Gardener," 
                Journal of the Aquatic Gardeners Association)
     
                               Neil Frank
    There are many products on the aquarium shop shelves which are sold as
    products to control algae. You will probably find that all of them have the
    same active ingredient: simazine. This is short for 2-chloro-4,6-bis
    (ethylamino)-s-triazine. These products are found in liquid, tablet or wettable
    powder form, which the consumer puts into solution within the provided
    container. Regardless of the company name, package size or price, the
    products are all the same. But do they work, do they affect vascular plants
    and can they harm the fish?

    Some History
    Simazine was introduced as an aquatic herbicide with application to control
    algae and submerged aquatic vegetation in lakes and ponds in the late 1950's.
    Studies during the 1960's showed that this chemical was effective in
    controlling algae and certain species of aquatic plants with no "apparent"
    harm to fish. The chemical was subsequently federally registered as an
    algicide for use in aquariums, swimming pools, as well as farm and recreational
    ponds.

    Simazine was first registered for aquarium usage in the multi-ingredient
    tablet, "Algae Destroyer," by Aqua-Biotics in 1967. This registration was
    supported by the results of a few phytotoxicity studies in actual aquariums.
    It was not until CIBA-GEIGY (the producer of the chemical) registered its own
    product under the brand name Aquazine in 1975 that simazine appeared as an
    active ingredient algicide on its own. Within a few years, several aquarium
    products containing simazine as its single active ingredient were similarly
    registered by EPA and started to appear on the retailers' shelves. Now, it
    appears that all of the multiple ingredient products are gone and even "Algae
    Destroyer" only contains simazine.

    Efficacy
    According to available literature, simazine is effective at controlling
    unicellular and attached filamentous algae at a concentration of 0.5-1.0
    milligrams per liter (mg/l), or parts per million (ppm). The recommended
    usage of aquarium algicides containing simazine as the single active ingredient
    yields a value in the middle of this range. Based on studies in lakes and
    ponds, blue-green algae are the most sensitive to treatment by simazine while
    diatoms and flagellates are the least sensitive. As a group, green algae are
    only moderately sensitive to simazine at recommended concentrations. Thus,
    the efficacy of the product depends on the type of algae present. Published
    studies as well as CIBA-GEIGY literature point out that submerged aquatic
    plants including Myriophyllum, Ceratophyllum and Cabomba, as well as
    duckweed and Wolffia can be controlled with simazine at twice the
    aforementioned concentrations. Vallisneria is also reported to be sensitive to
    the chemical.. These plants were field studied and are of interest in pond
    management because they are considered to be nuisance weed. Unfortunately,
    the use of these plants is different for the aquarist. Due to the sensitivity of
    these reported species to simazine, aquarium plants can be either killed or
    have their growth stunted by use of this algicide. Although CIBA-GEIGY's
    Aquazine contains this information on their label, no aquarium algicide product
    provides this warning. Some products do mention, however, as does CIBA-
    GEIGY, that caution is needed with water lilies and hyacinths, of interest to
    pond users. Based upon my experience, plants such as Amazon swords and
    Crypts are not affected, so the plants to be concerned about may be limited to
    Vallisneria, bunch plants and some floating plants. Fortunately, the latter
    tend to be easier and less costly
    Allen

  3. #3
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    Basically this stuff affects your plants as well as algae.
    Allen

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    I should change my motto to "any chemicals that kill algae will kill plants too"
    Cheers!!

    Sherwin Choo
    [email protected]

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    you might wanna qualify that... "generally any chemical that kills algae will kill plants"... never know when one day some smart alec develops something that really just targets algae... []
    Allen

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    hello, so long never come into the forum liao. Apparently, someone posted something abt barley straws. I think it should be safer than any chemical used.
    Regards,
    Brigitte

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    ----------------
    On 1/21/2003 5:58:03 PM

    Benny,

    before you go running out to buy this stuff... try reading this article by neil frank...

    ----------------

    Thanks Allen, this is really helpful. Will reconsider.

    My tank is overrun by 2 types of algae (BBA and Green Brush Algae) and I'm at wit's end. Quite desperate to be honest (desperate enough to have 16 SAE in the tank now). Game enough try anything and if it does not work. I think I'll may just tear it down.

    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

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    ----------------
    On 1/22/2003 3:48:12 PM

    hello, so long never come into the forum liao. Apparently, someone posted something abt barley straws. I think it should be safer than any chemical used.
    ----------------
    Hi Brigitte,

    Long time no see. Apparently (at least according to articles in the Krib or Chuck's), there is no conclusive evidence that Barley Straw realy inhibits algae growth.

    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

  9. #9
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    Benny,

    Green Brush Algae? Not sure what you're talking about. Perhaps you can take a picture? Or Does it look like this?

    Allen

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    benny's algae (GBA, looks like black brush) but its green.

    it grows on driftwood and can be considered low light. cos its shaded by nanas, java fern etc.

    ----------------------


    I've used Azoo Algae Treater before to kill of BBA and it does work. however, eg: hornwort, frogbit. completely died.

    http://www.azooaquarium.com/product/...es/AZ17030.jpg

    as for azoo brush algae killer, never tried that yet.

    since the Azoo brush algae killer mentions taht it will kill your filter bacteria, I suggest you run one of your filters in another tank to keep the bacteria alive.

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    ----------------
    On 1/22/2003 5:01:51 PM

    Benny,

    Green Brush Algae? Not sure what you're talking about. Perhaps you can take a picture? Or Does it look like this?


    ----------------
    Hi Allen,

    Nope. Does not look like this. I thought this is thread algae, easily removed by toothbrush.

    I use to have some pictures of it on this thread. But lost them because they were hosted on coolconnect. Will try to get some more pictures and let you guys have a look and probably post the updated tank parameters too.

    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

  12. #12
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    Just a suggestion you might want to visit algone.com
    Claim to have a interesting algae removal product.

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    algone has no active ingredients listed...

    grr

    anyway, I'm trying this algo stop depot tablets,
    trying to counter BBA in my 2ft tank. its a messy outbreak since the bba is on the moss, and on my crypts and I can't keep cutting theleaves cos they keep coming back.



    http://translate.google.com/translat...UTF-8%26sa%3DG

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    If you cut the the infested leaves and the BBA come back later, similarly, once the med's effect is over, they will come back.

    Treat the cause rather than the symptoms.

    BC

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    Unless the consensus has changed in the past couple of months, I think BBA is usually caused by insufficient CO2. Might you happen to know the CO2 level in your tank?

    I've had ramshorn snails (Planorbis corneus?) scrape BBA right off of my Anubias nana plant. Never so much as scratched a dot on the leaf surface. However, the snails don't seem too interested in the BBA that's growing on the substrate, glass, driftwood, hardware, etc. Only what's growing on the plants.

    I agree with the general statement that what kills algae will also kill plants. You see effects later in plants, but why risk it at all...? Getting rid of algae by targeting the actual cause may ultimately take longer, but it's really the best way. Just like dieting: you can get rid of fat by lipo-suction, but if you don't change your lifestyle (eating habits, exercise, etc.) the solution is merely temporary (as well as cosmetic) and you're just as unhealthy as before the surgery. In time, the fat comes right back, too.

    I don't know what sort of CO2 injection system you're using, if any, but definitely try to get it up to about 25 ppm. At this point, your SAE's should be able to clean up most of the stuff, provided you don't feed them too much fish food. Good luck!

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    ----------------
    On 1/22/2003 5:01:51 PM

    Benny,

    Green Brush Algae? Not sure what you're talking about. Perhaps you can take a picture?

    ----------------
    Hi guys, got pictures.


    In this picture, you can clearly see two types of algae, one greyish, the other one green, for comparison.


    This picture shows only the green version, which also sticks on to plants, wood, backgrounds, glass etc.

    Any idea what is the actual name of this algae?

    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

  17. #17
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    In addition, I have a whole tank absolutely full of BBA....

    These are pictures of my Cryptocoryne Parva, which is finally growing, but unfortunately not faster than BBA algae.






    Some info about the 5 ft tank. It's 151 X 51 X 61 cm covered tank.

    Yesterday's water parameters:
    kH : 3 dkh
    gH : 2 gkh
    NO2 : 0 mg/l
    NO3 : 0 mg/l
    NH3/NH4 : 0 mg/l
    Cu : 0 mg/l
    Fe : 0 mg/l
    P04 : < 0.1 mg/l
    pH : 6.4 to 6.6
    Temp : 25 - 27 degrees

    The tank is lighted by 4 X 36 W FL (Trocal 3085 & 6085) and filtered by 2 X Eheim pro II 2028. There is also a 75 W substrate heater and pH controller/CO2 set from Dennerle. Water chilled by RA680 and a UV filter is also attached. The UV has been turned off for quite a while due to medication.

    Substrate using Duponit and Duponit mix, topped with Dennerle gravel. Currently using Dennerle fertilizer set supplement with Brighty K from ADA according to their recommended schedule.

    As for bioload, it's filled with mainly small fishes. 15 hatchetfish, 2 clown killifish, 30 Copella Sp. 20 three line pencil fish, 5 oto, 14 SAE, 3 pygmy gouraimi, 2 chocolate gourami, 1 A. Loennbergi, 15 C. Hasbrosus, 3 C. Hastatus, 40 C. Pygmaeus, 3 Kuhli Loaches.

    For prawns, I have malayan (200 left?), yamato (140 left?) bee and tiger (80 left?), wood (3 left?) and 1 glass shrimp.

    Plants include, C. Parva, C. Lucerns, C. Willisi, C. Becketii, C. Wendti, C. Balansae, Java moss, X Mass moss, Java ferns (a few types), Rotala Indica, Hornworth, Hygrophilia Polysperma, 4 color lotus, Bolbitis, African Onion plant, Amazon Frogbits.

    Would appreciate if anyone could help analyse what couse of action to improve the situation.

    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

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    Zero nitrate...Mmmmmmm...it could well be the limiting factor to your tank...maybe you could try adding some nitrate through potassium nitrate from dr. Mallick or that of seachem.
    Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger

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    ----------------
    On 1/24/2003 3:42:28 PM

    Zero nitrate...Mmmmmmm...it could well be the limiting factor to your tank...maybe you could try adding some nitrate through potassium nitrate from dr. Mallick or that of seachem.
    ----------------

    Thanks peter for the suggestion.

    I was desperately trying to raise the NO3 level through bioload and feeding and to no avail. Perhaps I should add KNO3 instead of ADA's brighty K.

    Here is a pic of the infected tank.



    Cheers,
    I have dwarf cichlids in my tanks! Do you?

  20. #20
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    Using KNO3 is the best way to boost your nitrates... if you need a bit to try I can pass some to you.

    As for your "green brush algae" I could be wrong, but it looks a bit like the onset of Chlorella vyulgaris... which is a "desirable algae" for some aquarist.... But I've not had experience with your green brush algae or Chlorella vyulgaris so I can't be sure.

    Also from the pic, you can also see bba mingled into your "gba".... just thought I'd point it out.
    Allen

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