Advertisements
Aquatic Avenue Banner Tropica Shop Banner Fishy Business Banner
Page 4 of 15 FirstFirst 1234567814 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 80 of 292

Thread: JadeIceGreen's Sanzon Iwagumi

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,472
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    2
    Country
    Singapore
    Advertisements
    Fresh n Marine aQuarium Banner

    Advertise here

    Advertise here
    WOW!!! 4 Arcadia Arcpod!!! You're the winner!!!

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    429
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by Jervis View Post
    WOW!!! 4 Arcadia Arcpod!!! You're the winner!!!
    Not as nice as your ATI.
    Anything to make my glosso grow low and nicely.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Telok Blangah, SGP
    Posts
    10,216
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Images
    78
    Country
    Singapore
    Enought light and it will grow low.
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    315
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Planting glosso is always back-breaking.

    I don't think is the light issue. I have recently planted some glosso in my 1ft cube - after my HC failed to grow. I do agree HC fits better than glosso for nano tank. I am using 18W PL light. The glosso are growing nicely.

    From the way it looks, your glosso are still changing from emerse to submerse form. Once you see them growing horizontally, which will be in a week's time, uproot, cut away the initial batch and replant the rest.

    If they grow vertically, don't try to push them down only. Must be hardworking, uproot, cut, replant.

    The other reason maybe, you never plant deep enough. For me, I plant till it shows half to 2/3 the leaflets. All the rest are in the substrate. Your's are showing more than the leaflets.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    429
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    Enought light and it will grow low.
    Yeap, 36 watts should be more than enough.

    Quote Originally Posted by ghim View Post
    Planting glosso is always back-breaking.

    I don't think is the light issue. I have recently planted some glosso in my 1ft cube - after my HC failed to grow. I do agree HC fits better than glosso for nano tank. I am using 18W PL light. The glosso are growing nicely.

    From the way it looks, your glosso are still changing from emerse to submerse form. Once you see them growing horizontally, which will be in a week's time, uproot, cut away the initial batch and replant the rest.

    If they grow vertically, don't try to push them down only. Must be hardworking, uproot, cut, replant.

    The other reason maybe, you never plant deep enough. For me, I plant till it shows half to 2/3 the leaflets. All the rest are in the substrate. Your's are showing more than the leaflets.
    Hey Bro, very good tips and guidelines from growing glosso. Thanks so much! I will follow your suggestions closely.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Telok Blangah, SGP
    Posts
    10,216
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Images
    78
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by JadeIceGreen View Post
    Yeap, 36 watts should be more than enough.
    for your tank height, should be enough. I have 1.5ft with 1.2ft height and glosso grow tall under 36W, I end up put 2x36W.
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    429
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    for your tank height, should be enough. I have 1.5ft with 1.2ft height and glosso grow tall under 36W, I end up put 2x36W.
    I cannot add anymore lights even if I want to, my tank rim has no more space left. lol.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    KL
    Posts
    2,913
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    26
    Country
    Malaysia
    Hi Isaac,

    I once upon a time did all this testing, including for Fe as well but decided that it was easier to eyeball the plants.
    Your hobby ethic and journal is admirable.

    I think 36W is just nice for glosso in a 1ft nano to grow nicely.
    For those that use less light I suspect you may have ambient light to help along because anything less have always looked leggy. This is also the same reason I set the photoperiod during the day. For viewing at night I just turn it on.

    A little OD on CO2 is ok but if the pH dips too low, your filter bacteria would have problems multiplying.
    The water should be crystal clear by now. In about 4-6 days you can add an oto, yamato to help clean up some debris. It is recommended that you only dose Step 1 when you see the plants starting to grow.[i guess this is moot ]

    Potassium should be dosed from day 1. If you did not add Penac W+Bacter 100 on day one then you should be doing WC 30% either today or tomorrow. Remember to wipe insides of tank with fingers before WC. If you dosed PW+B100, the next day is is recommended to do a 30-40% WC.

    Ok, I'll shut up and watch from now...
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    429
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    Hi Isaac,

    I once upon a time did all this testing, including for Fe as well but decided that it was easier to eyeball the plants.
    Your hobby ethic and journal is admirable.

    I think 36W is just nice for glosso in a 1ft nano to grow nicely.
    For those that use less light I suspect you may have ambient light to help along because anything less have always looked leggy. This is also the same reason I set the photoperiod during the day. For viewing at night I just turn it on.

    A little OD on CO2 is ok but if the pH dips too low, your filter bacteria would have problems multiplying.
    The water should be crystal clear by now. In about 4-6 days you can add an oto, yamato to help clean up some debris. It is recommended that you only dose Step 1 when you see the plants starting to grow.[i guess this is moot ]

    Potassium should be dosed from day 1. If you did not add Penac W+Bacter 100 on day one then you should be doing WC 30% either today or tomorrow. Remember to wipe insides of tank with fingers before WC. If you dosed PW+B100, the next day is is recommended to do a 30-40% WC.

    Ok, I'll shut up and watch from now...
    No, please dun shut up! Haha. Your advice is crucial to newbies like me.
    Thank you for your compliments on this journal.

    My photoperiod is from 2pm to 12am at the moment as I love to view my tank at night, the 36 watts also double up as my room lighting.

    My water is super clear at the moment so I'm very glad with that. I have completely stopped supplying CO2 for today and my drop checker still shows yellow. Hmmm, I'm afraid that the water that I used to mix the PH regent may be throwing the colour off as I use my tank water which had low PH with a KH of one. Does anyone knows if this will cause a problem?

    I have started dosing Step 1 since day 1 and there was already growth on the second day, so I guess thats okay. I do not have penac w but I do have bacter 100. Have been doing 30% water changes daily after the photoperiod.

    Thanks for all the help and advice!

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    east
    Posts
    209
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    18
    Country
    Singapore
    Very detailed and informative thread bro... will keep an eye on this one

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    429
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by fishpoo View Post
    Very detailed and informative thread bro... will keep an eye on this one
    Thanks bro for viewing and following along.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    429
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    I think my first mistake on this scape has been the over dose of CO2. My GH for the last 3 days has been above 10 and my drop checker shows yellow. I am going to attempt to bring it down without a complete water change.


    Eheim outlet is raise to the water surface to create surface agitation, this should dispense the extra CO2.



  13. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Telok Blangah, SGP
    Posts
    10,216
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Images
    78
    Country
    Singapore
    drop checker response is very slow, just wait maybe about 2-4 hours before see the response
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    429
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    I have been "aerating" my tank for the last 3 hours and the drop checker still shows yellow.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    drop checker response is very slow, just wait maybe about 2-4 hours before see the response
    Knowing from experience that CO2 escapes very quickly with intense surface agitation and from bro's Shadow very helpful response, I decided to do a quick KH and PH test and entered my results into a CO2 calculator found on practical fishkeeping magazine's website.

    pH 6.8
    KH
    2°/35.71 ppm
    CO2 level
    9.51 ppm approximately

    So it looks like drop checker is slow or I have mixed the solution wrongly. Since I now know that my tank has only about 10 ppm of CO2, I am going to empty out the drop checker and fill it with my tank water and it should register green.

    My CO2 has been switched back on and its set at 1 bubble per 2 seconds. Will do another CO2 test again at the end of the photoperiod and get back to you guys.
    Last edited by JadeIceGreen; 20th Jan 2009 at 19:34.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    KL
    Posts
    2,913
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    26
    Country
    Malaysia
    Hi Isaac,

    You should still continue to supply CO2 as the plants need it. The lowering of the pH[that's what a drop checker is-to check pH] is just a 'side effect' of the soil[Amazonia 2]. As you can see from the table of Aquasoils.
    From the table we can see Amazonia 2 has less NH4+ and that the pH is correspondingly lower than original Amazonia. The peat substance in the soil reduces temporary harness[kH] and causes the pH to drop. I believe Penac W is part of the equation most hobbyists miss when they start up their 'ADA' system tank.
    PenacW content breakdown as listed on the box.
    SiO2 99.2%,
    Al2O3 0.42%,
    Fe2O3 0.021%,
    TiO2 0.03%
    Na2O 0.11%
    Na2 0.01%
    CaO 0.02%
    MgO 0.02%.

    This formulation I believe help 'neutralise' what's lost to the peat in the soils.

    -------

    There was always a problem for guys using Aquasoil and pH controllers. The pH is somewhat unbelievably low as what you're experiencing. Quite far from the pH6.4-6.6 recommended in most planting journals. Those tanks already have CO2 supplied. The pH controller IMO would not work properly with new Aquasoil setups. You'd have to compensate over time as the soil exhausts it's top side acidity increasing properties.

    Cut long story short-
    At this point I would ignore the test kit and just set the CO2 to one-two bubbles per second.
    [See why I stop using test kits? ]
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    429
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    Hi Isaac,

    You should still continue to supply CO2 as the plants need it. The lowering of the pH[that's what a drop checker is-to check pH] is just a 'side effect' of the soil[Amazonia 2]. As you can see from the table of Aquasoils.
    From the table we can see Amazonia 2 has less NH4+ and that the pH is correspondingly lower than original Amazonia. The peat substance in the soil reduces temporary harness[kH] and causes the pH to drop. I believe Penac W is part of the equation most hobbyists miss when they start up their 'ADA' system tank.
    PenacW content breakdown as listed on the box.
    SiO2 99.2%,
    Al2O3 0.42%,
    Fe2O3 0.021%,
    TiO2 0.03%
    Na2O 0.11%
    Na2 0.01%
    CaO 0.02%
    MgO 0.02%.

    This formulation I believe help 'neutralise' what's lost to the peat in the soils.

    -------

    There was always a problem for guys using Aquasoil and pH controllers. The pH is somewhat unbelievably low as what you're experiencing. Quite far from the pH6.4-6.6 recommended in most planting journals. Those tanks already have CO2 supplied. The pH controller IMO would not work properly with new Aquasoil setups. You'd have to compensate over time as the soil exhausts it's top side acidity increasing properties.

    Cut long story short-
    At this point I would ignore the test kit and just set the CO2 to one-two bubbles per second.
    [See why I stop using test kits? ]
    I get it, Thanks again for the info!

    I'm going to let my drop checker sit in the tank but ignore it for the time being, gonna use the CO2 calculator to get more accurate results.

    I regret not getting Penac W now as I skipped it due to its cost. Thanks also for the bubble count, I am going to follow that.

    Yeah I can see why you stop using test kits, but for myself I am still going to use them to at least build up the discipline of daily testing and to further understand my water parameters.

  17. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Telok Blangah, SGP
    Posts
    10,216
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Images
    78
    Country
    Singapore
    forget about CO2 measurement using pH and kH. ADA Aquasoil is effecting your water pH and kH thus the table no longer accurate.

    If you want to check whether you mix the drop checker properly or not, you can take it out and put it outside your tank for couple hours. It should turn to blue. By the way did you use kH = 4 solution for your drop checker?
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

  18. #78
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    KL
    Posts
    2,913
    Feedback Score
    0
    Images
    26
    Country
    Malaysia
    My drop checker is for show only. [the first piece of glass from ADA I bought 3 years ago. Once you start you can't stop. Ouch!]

    I just noticed you started CO2 already and if you really need to test, test the pH before CO2 is supplied and 1/2 hour after it's supplied. Should not drop more than 1 pH point.

    Have you got a Speed Controller G? I find it useful for fine tuning CO2 bubble count.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

  19. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Telok Blangah, SGP
    Posts
    10,216
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)
    Images
    78
    Country
    Singapore
    what is speed controller G?
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    315
    Feedback Score
    0
    Country
    Singapore
    Very innovative for using the outlet pipe like a lily pipe. I just gotten a nano CAL set, but still have not install it. Seems like they are the only one with a gap big enough for 8mm nano tank.

    You guys are really tempting people to try out this kind scape I shall rescape my 1ft to Iwagumi. Now to hunt for rocks!

    For nano tank, even at 1 bps CO2, the drop checker will show yellow very fast. But it takes quite a long time to show the actual color. You can always pour away the liquid and add new solution.

Page 4 of 15 FirstFirst 1234567814 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •