All my bio-load in my 2ft were wipe-out last last friday night due to CO2 poisoning.[] It's due to the bubble-gauge, I adjusted it during the morning and didn't check when I came home late that night[
It's been 4 days and I'm still reeling from shock, I'd cleared as much of the corpses I can find, it's a heavily planted tank, could any one advise how I can stabilise the water condition?I have water change a couple of time already, and clean the filter, any other thing I should be aware of? I had put in some shrimp, hoping they will help to clear up any corpse which I missed and a few fish to help to indicate the water condition.......should I do any nitrite/nitrate test?
It's absolutely a bad disaster.
Any advise would be much appreciated[
...I love rubies too ...
Ken
I'm assuming that the tank is not at danger of CO2 poisoning by now.... From what you mentioned, all fishes are gone. Let the tank settle down. With dead corpses still in the tank would mean NH3/NO2 in high levels. Juz carry on your normal water change and say after 2 weeks try adding in some (1 or 2) fishes to check if the water is safe for fishes. Getting test kits would be good e.i. NH3 or NO2.
Try siphoning out the dead stuff during water change would help.
Same thing happen to me 3 months ago. I was away on holiday when my regulator gave way. The whole tank was reeking. Good thing was that my mother-in-law went to our home and scoop out the floating corpses.
When I return home 1 week later, I found that there were some bones of the fishes left. Some snails survived and became very big probably by feeding on the corpses. But the amazing thing was, when I tested the water, NO2 was zero. I guessed with the high CO2, plants just sucked all the NH3 from the water. Within 1 week, NH3 and NO2 spikes were over. One thing for sure, the plants were overgrown, less those plants being shaded by the overgrown plants.
BC[:]
Same thing happen to me too thats why i bought does automatic timer it helps specially whe ur away.
Thxs Guys for the advise and sharing your mishaps too.
I felt like a murderer after the incident; my wife said that I murdered the fishes
...I love rubies too ...
Ken
Hi,
just curious. could it be due to the pH drop? the water became too acidic due to too much CO2?
Zulkifli
CO2 poisoning. More deadly than pH drop.
Fishes cannot exchange the CO2 from their bloodstream... result in O2 suffocation.
BC
Joseph,
If the regulator gives way, an automatic timer would help. However, with a solenoid operated regulator, the valve is seldom or not touched resulting to more constant flow.
May I know for thore regulator breakdown cases is a solenoid or manual type?
hi sherchoo, is there a way i can use a timer for my CO2 canister without using a solenoid valve? i'm currently using a manual regulator. me newbie to this hobby. thanks for ur advice.
Mine was one with a solenoid on timer. The pressure regulating just go kaput and dump the whole tank of CO2 into the aquarium. Got timer and solenoid also no use.
BC
CO2 Poisoning is a terrible thing, I guess the only way is to be more conservative in the CO2 bubble count... It's something I don't wish to happen again or to see happening to anyone's tank
If even the solenoid valve does breaks down, should we just turn off the main valve completely at night? Does that damage the valve in the long run?
...I love rubies too ...
Ken
Bclee...the solenoid valve should be shut if the power supply is cut off to your solenoid by the timer, which means no way of CO2 flowing pass..funny...unless the pressure is so great it breaks the valve??? Wonder how much psi can the solenoid valve withstand though...
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
There is no way to control via a timer without a solenoid valve.----------------
On 2/11/2003 4:22:23 PM
hi sherchoo, is there a way i can use a timer for my CO2 canister without using a solenoid valve? i'm currently using a manual regulator. me newbie to this hobby. thanks for ur advice.
----------------
Just out of curiousity, how old was the regulator? Was it a newly refilled tank?----------------
On 2/11/2003 4:28:09 PM
Mine was one with a solenoid on timer. The pressure regulating just go kaput and dump the whole tank of CO2 into the aquarium. Got timer and solenoid also no use.
BC
----------------
Peter,----------------
On 2/11/2003 5:22:29 PM
Bclee...the solenoid valve should be shut if the power supply is cut off to your solenoid by the timer, which means no way of CO2 flowing pass..funny...unless the pressure is so great it breaks the valve??? Wonder how much psi can the solenoid valve withstand though...
----------------
If the regulator gives way during the solenoid is powered on, there won't be anything to stop the co2, yes?
It is not the pressure damaging the solenoid valve. It is the regulator itself that go kaput. The output pressure supposed to be regulated to about 1 bar. But the regulator just failed and the pressure shot up and dumping the whole CO2 tank into the aquarium.----------------
On 2/11/2003 5:22:29 PM
Bclee...the solenoid valve should be shut if the power supply is cut off to your solenoid by the timer, which means no way of CO2 flowing pass..funny...unless the pressure is so great it breaks the valve??? Wonder how much psi can the solenoid valve withstand though...
----------------
If the solenoid valve fail, it is not that bad. At least the output pressure is still notmal. Probably you will just get the normal bubbling rate at night.
BC
I am currently using a regulator without the solenoid valve. I am running the CO2 24hrs. No problem. I do not have too much CO2 buildup at night.----------------
On 2/11/2003 5:07:49 PM
CO2 Poisoning is a terrible thing, I guess the only way is to be more conservative in the CO2 bubble count... It's something I don't wish to happen again or to see happening to anyone's tank
To avoid this happening, should we just turn off the main valve completely at night? Does that damage the valve in the long run?
----------------
I am guessing:
Rate of CO2 loss through water surface >> Rate of CO2 consume by plants
... thats why no considerable CO2 buildup?
BC
think the max. operating pressure of solenoid valve could be 10 bar max.----------------
Bclee...the solenoid valve should be shut if the power supply is cut off to your solenoid by the timer, which means no way of CO2 flowing pass..funny...unless the pressure is so great it breaks the valve??? Wonder how much psi can the solenoid valve withstand though...
----------------
tank pressure is more than 50++ bar.
when solenoid valves are powered on, they can either be open or closed. and there is a spring which will return the valve to the unpowered state. i believe most are using the normally closed solenoid valve, that is powered on to open.
when the regulator goes kaput, co2 at tank pressure will push against the valve and will force it's way past the valve. the spring, rated at 10 bar, will not be able to resist 50++ bar. however, this may not damage the valve.
thomas liew
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