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Thread: Request for Comments/Advise on Tank Setup

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    Request for Comments/Advise on Tank Setup

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    Hi everyone,
    I'm coming into inheritance of a small study room (from a housing purchase), in which I intend to put some tanks. Have been scouring the forum and through various drawing iterations (The first of which began in this thread - http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=51636)
    In my first drawing, I envisaged a 3 tier 4 feet tank setup consisting of 13 partitioned tanks. I've since rethought my design as there are several cons.
    1. 13 tanks with different water conditions;
    2. 13 tanks to perform water change on;
    3. Piping/Plumage to all 13 tanks!!!;
    4. Filtration complexity.

    So... I've decided to redraw my design. I've done the following so far:

    1. 13 tanks, but sharing the same water;
    2. 1 sump serving all 13 tanks;
    3. top tier tank flows down to middle tier, and middle tier flows down to bottom tier, which then flows down to the sump;

    Now, my questions:
    1. How should I design my water change? I will still plumb a drainage pipe and tap right to the tank area.
    2. Should I still have a holding tank for aged water?

    Heres the drawing below. Appreciate your thoughts.

    Paul Apisto Noobie

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    The system looks ok. I suggest a UV steriliser on the return from the pump.
    As for the aged water, it should be another tank on top for the piped water to come in via float ball with a hole in the tank + tap to flow into the tank below it. An air stone in the holding tank to degas chlorine is recommended.
    Drainage would naturally be plumbed to the sump tank via overflow and or tap.
    With the in tap you can create continuous overflow system and is fairly maintenance free.

    The downside of have this all in one is that whatever pest you introduce into one tank will filter into all the tanks.

    Just note is that the overflow pipe position of the middle tank in the drawing should swap position so less piping is needed. No need to make long elbow.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    The downside of have this all in one is that whatever pest you introduce into one tank will filter into all the tanks.
    UV should kill it right?
    -Robert
    Aquascaping is a marriage between Art and Farming
    My Blog: http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/

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    Hey Paul,
    I must thank you for letting me laugh my head off because your drawing brought back so much memories!

    This was how the setup looked like before I brought it home and look what I did to it.

    Quote Originally Posted by craftsman View Post
    In my first drawing, I envisaged a 3 tier 4 feet tank setup consisting of 13 partitioned tanks. I've since rethought my design as there are several cons.
    1. 13 tanks with different water conditions;
    2. 13 tanks to perform water change on;
    3. Piping/Plumage to all 13 tanks!!!;
    4. Filtration complexity
    There are advantages...
    1. Different water condition allows you to keep fishes needing different requirement.
    2. If you have a flow-through on an individual tank basis, you can semi-automate water changing.
    3. Can be easily solved with 3 sets of manifold; incoming water, discharge water and air.

    Quote Originally Posted by craftsman View Post
    1. 13 tanks, but sharing the same water;
    2. 1 sump serving all 13 tanks;
    3. top tier tank flows down to middle tier, and middle tier flows down to bottom tier, which then flows down to the sump
    There are equally many cons as there are pros;
    1. Same water = same infected water.
    2. Pump in sump must never be allowed to run dry (unless otherwise designed). Size of sump must be adequate to hold drain-offs from all your 3 main tanks during power outage.
    3. Same as my old setup and you won't regret having those holes pre-drilled. Middle tank, shift down-pipe to the left instead.

    Your questions, my thoughts....
    1. How should I design my water change? I will still plumb a drainage pipe and tap right to the tank area.
    Plumbing to and from your tank area is a must and frankly, I lost count of the times wishing that I did BUT whatever you do, don't have them concealed under the floor tiles because condensation from the buried pipes will cause water stains and unsightly cracks to your downstair neighbour's ceiling. Locate the plumbing higher up, eg. near the ceiling (I'm sure you'll be able to find clever ways to hide the pipes). Likewise for the drainage which can be pump out with an external or submersible powerhead.

    2. Should I still have a holding tank for aged water?
    Small setups don't have that luxury but you should be mindful of chloramine that's dosed into our mains. Rig up activated-carbon modules, plus anti-chloramine treatment, if doing large water changes. [PS: I won't be drawn into debates regarding their use or effectiveness]

    As per your last drawing, it isn't necessary to have horizontal pipes to change the flow... just swap tank position (effectively changing your drain pipe from the right side to the left). Save those pipes for other purposes.

    I cannot refute Stan's recommendation to use UV sterilization but please note that effectiveness is governed by the power of the UV radiation, exposure time and flow of water through the UV units. [time for you to google more]

    Whatever you do, be very very afraid of tanklet addiction. [urm... yes, that's my corridor... your turn to laugh...]
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    The system looks ok. I suggest a UV steriliser on the return from the pump.
    As for the aged water, it should be another tank on top for the piped water to come in via float ball with a hole in the tank + tap to flow into the tank below it. An air stone in the holding tank to degas chlorine is recommended.
    Drainage would naturally be plumbed to the sump tank via overflow and or tap.
    With the in tap you can create continuous overflow system and is fairly maintenance free.

    The downside of have this all in one is that whatever pest you introduce into one tank will filter into all the tanks.

    Just note is that the overflow pipe position of the middle tank in the drawing should swap position so less piping is needed. No need to make long elbow.
    Thanks Stan for your thoughts. Good advice which I'll definitely take into consideration. Yes, I've also considered the possibility of an epidemic, infact this was the primary reason why I started out wanting a completely separated design. But in the whole scheme of things, I figure that I can live with the risk. I have some amendments to the overflow system, which I will address together with my reply to Ronnie.
    Paul Apisto Noobie

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    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    Hey Paul,
    I must thank you for letting me laugh my head off because your drawing brought back so much memories!
    I'm very much aware that I'm threading where you and others have threaded before. I'm very thankful for all of your patience in guiding me, but yet not telling me everything so that your comments don't destroy the journey of discovery for me. I'm glad it brings back some memories. Good ones I hope.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    This was how the setup looked like before I brought it home and look what I did to it.
    My goodness!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    There are advantages...
    1. Different water condition allows you to keep fishes needing different requirement.
    2. If you have a flow-through on an individual tank basis, you can semi-automate water changing.
    3. Can be easily solved with 3 sets of manifold; incoming water, discharge water and air.


    There are equally many cons as there are pros;
    1. Same water = same infected water.
    2. Pump in sump must never be allowed to run dry (unless otherwise designed). Size of sump must be adequate to hold drain-offs from all your 3 main tanks during power outage.
    3. Same as my old setup and you won't regret having those holes pre-drilled. Middle tank, shift down-pipe to the left instead.
    Now you've gone and confuse me again!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    Your questions, my thoughts....
    1. How should I design my water change? I will still plumb a drainage pipe and tap right to the tank area.
    Plumbing to and from your tank area is a must and frankly, I lost count of the times wishing that I did BUT whatever you do, don't have them concealed under the floor tiles because condensation from the buried pipes will cause water stains and unsightly cracks to your downstair neighbour's ceiling. Locate the plumbing higher up, eg. near the ceiling (I'm sure you'll be able to find clever ways to hide the pipes). Likewise for the drainage which can be pump out with an external or submersible powerhead.
    Another excellent advice!!! Thanks for letting me know. I don't want to get into trouble with my new neighbors!!

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    2. Should I still have a holding tank for aged water?
    Small setups don't have that luxury but you should be mindful of chloramine that's dosed into our mains. Rig up activated-carbon modules, plus anti-chloramine treatment, if doing large water changes. [PS: I won't be drawn into debates regarding their use or effectiveness]

    As per your last drawing, it isn't necessary to have horizontal pipes to change the flow... just swap tank position (effectively changing your drain pipe from the right side to the left). Save those pipes for other purposes.
    Yes. Noted. Same as Stan's advice. I happen to chance on an excellent overflow pipe design, which I think will save me the trouble of drilling the tanks.
    I'll do similar overflow pipes (with skimmer & a much better version of my inital double "U" or "J" pipes) for each tank, which will flow down to the tank directly below it. Any thoughts on whether this is better than drilling the tanks? or vice versa?

    Drainage of water to be done on the middle tier tank, while new water is discharged to the sump which will then re-distribute it to all tanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    I cannot refute Stan's recommendation to use UV sterilization but please note that effectiveness is governed by the power of the UV radiation, exposure time and flow of water through the UV units. [time for you to google more]

    Whatever you do, be very very afraid of tanklet addiction. [urm... yes, that's my corridor... your turn to laugh...]
    I'll leave the UV sterilization to the last bit. I think its easily done as you suggested by googling and finding out more. I'm more concerned about the management of water, water change, drainage, etc at this initial stage. And yes... I wish I was your neighbor!!!! I'm sure they must have on many occasions hung around your corridor just to look at your fishes!
    Paul Apisto Noobie

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    Quote Originally Posted by craftsman View Post
    I'll leave the UV sterilization to the last bit. I think its easily done as you suggested by googling and finding out more. I'm more concerned about the management of water, water change, drainage, etc at this initial stage. And yes... I wish I was your neighbor!!!! I'm sure they must have on many occasions hung around your corridor just to look at your fishes!
    I've just got my new UV sterilization... C&G!!
    VIPER

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    Quote Originally Posted by Viper007 View Post
    I've just got my new UV sterilization... C&G!!
    Congratulations Viper!
    Paul Apisto Noobie

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    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    Whatever you do, be very very afraid of tanklet addiction. [urm... yes, that's my corridor... your turn to laugh...]
    Wow Ronnie, I have never seen your corridor so tidy before. Where are all the plastic food containers and your planted tank??

    Paul, you should know that the possibility of flooding is very real and take all precautions to prevent it.
    e.g. Fish (dead or alive) or plant stuck in any of the overflow = flood. Leaks in the bulk heads = flood. Sump not big enough = flood when power fails.

    Theoratically, the last tank in the lower tier will have the worst water quality because it has gathered the bad stuff from the tanks before it. Consider the overflow from the tanks to go directly to the sump instead. But that will mean your supply to the tanks will have to split into 3. This has added advantage that in case you want to isolate one tier because of disease or whatever, it is possible.

    How you partition the tanks is also tricky actually. e.g. If your Apisto spawns, how are you going to keep the fries from going the the adjacent tank? Consider under flow systems too. Or you can ask Ronnie about his Killies hotel.

    Regarding the UV issue, it really depends how hardcore you want to be. Disease in the system is a real pain and hard to eradicate.

    Water change: If you can use direct tap water, float valve to fill, of course. If not, still float valve but in a water storage reservoir with treatments, air blah blah blah. If you put this on the 4th tier (if possible of course), then you can have aged water on the tap. If not, then have to use pump.

    ck

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    Quote Originally Posted by CK Yeo View Post
    Paul, you should know that the possibility of flooding is very real and take all precautions to prevent it.
    e.g. Fish (dead or alive) or plant stuck in any of the overflow = flood. Leaks in the bulk heads = flood. Sump not big enough = flood when power fails.
    CK, thanks for the advice, although this thing about flooding is making me really nervous.

    Quote Originally Posted by CK Yeo View Post
    Theoratically, the last tank in the lower tier will have the worst water quality because it has gathered the bad stuff from the tanks before it. Consider the overflow from the tanks to go directly to the sump instead. But that will mean your supply to the tanks will have to split into 3. This has added advantage that in case you want to isolate one tier because of disease or whatever, it is possible.
    Thats an extremely good option!!! I wonder if the sump needs to be deeper and longer to accomodate a larger flow of water as well as to accommodate for power trips.

    Quote Originally Posted by CK Yeo View Post
    How you partition the tanks is also tricky actually. e.g. If your Apisto spawns, how are you going to keep the fries from going the the adjacent tank? Consider under flow systems too. Or you can ask Ronnie about his Killies hotel.
    I saw some of Ronnie's pictures on his "3M" like mats at the bottom of the tank to prevent partition migration by fries.

    Quote Originally Posted by CK Yeo View Post
    Regarding the UV issue, it really depends how hardcore you want to be. Disease in the system is a real pain and hard to eradicate.

    Water change: If you can use direct tap water, float valve to fill, of course. If not, still float valve but in a water storage reservoir with treatments, air blah blah blah. If you put this on the 4th tier (if possible of course), then you can have aged water on the tap. If not, then have to use pump.

    ck
    I'll likely put a water storage on the 4th tier as you suggest. Easiest way to resolve water change. Either that, or a RO/DI drip system. I'm still trying to gather information on that. Do you know the pros/cons of such a system?
    Paul Apisto Noobie

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    Quote Originally Posted by craftsman View Post
    I'm very thankful for all of your patience in guiding me, but yet not telling me everything so that your comments don't destroy the journey of discovery for me
    Paul, you are very welcomed. Starting out from scratch can be a daunting task, cast with doubts and many misfortunes along the way. I'm sharing my mistakes so you don't have to repeat them. Then again, I won't spoon feed.

    "Now you've gone and confuse me again!!!"
    No... seriously. If I had the chance to do it all over again *shiver with fright*, I'll have the tanks permanently partitioned as per your original drawing, with a combination of differently sized tanks. I would want to have all 3 manifolds and individual drain at each tanks because all it takes is ONE major outbreak of disease to lose everything (been there, done that and bought the damn t-shirt). Often, when fishes start bellying up, it's a case of 'too little too late', regardless of what remedies or damage control you apply.

    "I'll do similar overflow pipes (with skimmer & a much better version of my inital double "U" or "J" pipes) for each tank, which will flow down to the tank directly below it. Any thoughts on whether this is better than drilling the tanks? or vice versa?"
    Show me what you have in mind.

    "I'm sure they must have on many occasions hung around your corridor just to look at your fishes!"
    Yes, it draws a fair bit of attention but I was more wary of friends helping themselves with my nets!

    Quote Originally Posted by CK Yeo View Post
    Wow Ronnie, I have never seen your corridor so tidy before
    eh friend, now I know you're mocking me! but but... those pics were taken almost 5 years ago. I can only imagine your reaction when you see the DIY'ed aviary that replaced the 4ft tanks..... [dropping by for kopi anytime soon??]
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Robert, UV may not kill it unless you can match the flow rate with UV power intensity. UV IMO is only used to reduce chance of outbreak.

    Hi Ronnie,

    I do think the multi tank corridor is a bit much but then again crazy hobbyists like us like to test the limit.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    If I had the chance to do it all over again *shiver with fright*, I'll have the tanks permanently partitioned as per your original drawing, with a combination of differently sized tanks. I would want to have all 3 manifolds and individual drain at each tanks because all it takes is ONE major outbreak of disease to lose everything (been there, done that and bought the damn t-shirt). Often, when fishes start bellying up, it's a case of 'too little too late', regardless of what remedies or damage control you apply.
    Well said. I think disease control is under estimated by most hobbyists. Most don't even have a quarantine tank. I think for killies that come from all over the world you may also get their carried pathogen. The fella may have resistance to their local pathogen but most likely not all the different ones from all over the world. I have experience with discus that are just from different farms in Malaysia. They get sick so rapidly it's just called the "discus plague". Luckily discus are quite strong and do allow you time to treat them but I think for small fishes it's just going to be extra hard.

    I do cringe at LFS that have cramped spaces and seeing dead fishes in their tanks that share water. Most of the time I have to stand there for a long time, look for more symptoms and decide to buy or not to buy. Kind of lengthy process as my brain is already fired up to get that new species that just came in!


    Paul,
    Personally I with small tanks it's quite a pain to create 13 different types of water for 13 different fishes. I do agree the bottom rack theoretically would have the poorest water quality especially after feeding time if you choose to chain them in series.

    If your have the resources to go hi-tech, you can add solenoids to do auto WC when you're away. Meaning a valve with solenoid programmed to open for 15 minutes everyday to bleed water from the sump so that new water can fill the gap. This can be a hole drilled into the sump tank side with a rotatable PVC elbow to set the desired amount to be bled daily to reduce nitrate buildup.

    -----

    I created a simple overflow system without the sump. Each tier had their own pump+overhead filter bulkhead. [You can opt for the side bulkhead filter like how it's done in Polyart with the mesh and gravel as described and used by Ronnie.] I prefer to have the overhead filter bulkhead as I can remove it to the bathroom to clean it without messing up the floor. I can also opt to use only air driven sponge filters if it's for fries.

    As for divider of the manifold, I think it's better to have non see through material. This is because breeding fishes would be distracted by other fish in other tank. I use some cheap 'bathroom' glass.['Nako' glass]

    The piping manifold is hidden behind the rack column. Each tier had it's own tap and a hole drilled in tank for an overflow. The tap is let to drip clean water from the storage tank above.

    This is a 'sumpless' system. Great if you intend for some cabinet storage space at the bottom or just more tanks.
    You can if you dare to fail - Stan Chung

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    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    No... seriously. If I had the chance to do it all over again *shiver with fright*, I'll have the tanks permanently partitioned as per your original drawing, with a combination of differently sized tanks. I would want to have all 3 manifolds and individual drain at each tanks because all it takes is ONE major outbreak of disease to lose everything (been there, done that and bought the damn t-shirt). Often, when fishes start bellying up, it's a case of 'too little too late', regardless of what remedies or damage control you apply.

    "I'll do similar overflow pipes (with skimmer & a much better version of my inital double "U" or "J" pipes) for each tank, which will flow down to the tank directly below it. Any thoughts on whether this is better than drilling the tanks? or vice versa?"
    Show me what you have in mind.
    Hi Ronnie, I intend to partition up the tanks as per my original drawing. Just didn't draw the partitions as I didn't want to clog up the drawing.

    The only things I'm mulling over now (with the suggestions you, Stan and CK are throwing up) are:

    1. Filtration (Sump or overhead filter or canister or sponge) - I'm leaning towards a simple overhead filter as Stan suggested
    2. Tiered filtration or shared filtration - I'm leaning towards tiered filtration after Stan's suggestions
    3. Drilled holes in tank with bulkheads or DIY overflow system - I'm leaning towards DIY overflow system as shown below
    4. Water change (drip system - how do I resolve the chlorine/chloramine issue; or storage tank with aged water) I'm kinda leaning towards storage tank


    I've also pretty much decided the following:
    1. 13 individually partitioned tanks (Kinda like how you've done yours, Ronnie, with gaps under each partition, mesh and pebbles)

    Ronnie, the double "U" PVC pipes, I think is perfected in the following drawing which I pillaged from another forum (discussion thread back in 2004. I hope this will no longer infringe copyrights. )


    Schematics are as follows:


    I like this design as it maintains the siphon even if power is cut, and it doesn't look half bad! I'm very keen to use this rather than drilling the tanks.
    Paul Apisto Noobie

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    If your have the resources to go hi-tech, you can add solenoids to do auto WC when you're away. Meaning a valve with solenoid programmed to open for 15 minutes everyday to bleed water from the sump so that new water can fill the gap. This can be a hole drilled into the sump tank side with a rotatable PVC elbow to set the desired amount to be bled daily to reduce nitrate buildup.
    Stan, have thought of this (like the Tubby system) early on, but decided not to do this yet. Presumably, a drip system with accompanying overflow drainage would achieve the same result? If I can place a aged water storage at the 4th tier as you suggested, drip the water into the tanks below, and provide the overflow drainage, then I can achieve automated water change as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    I created a simple overflow system without the sump. Each tier had their own pump+overhead filter bulkhead. [You can opt for the side bulkhead filter like how it's done in Polyart with the mesh and gravel as described and used by Ronnie.] I prefer to have the overhead filter bulkhead as I can remove it to the bathroom to clean it without messing up the floor. I can also opt to use only air driven sponge filters if it's for fries.
    I like your suggestion of an overhead filter! Wonder why I didn't think of that. Hmm.. maybe too seduced by sumps. I also like the Polyart side bulkhead you mentioned. Maybe tiem to pop by to take a closer look. Hee...

    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    As for divider of the manifold, I think it's better to have non see through material. This is because breeding fishes would be distracted by other fish in other tank. I use some cheap 'bathroom' glass.['Nako' glass]

    The piping manifold is hidden behind the rack column. Each tier had it's own tap and a hole drilled in tank for an overflow. The tap is let to drip clean water from the storage tank above.

    This is a 'sumpless' system. Great if you intend for some cabinet storage space at the bottom or just more tanks.
    Great advice!!! Will incorporate these to further refinements. Thanks Stan!
    Paul Apisto Noobie

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    Quote Originally Posted by craftsman View Post
    I've also pretty much decided the following:
    1. 13 individually partitioned tanks (Kinda like how you've done yours, Ronnie, with gaps under each partition, mesh and pebbles)
    In that case, opt for individual filtration at each tier. Drainage can be centralized via manifold.

    Quote Originally Posted by craftsman View Post
    Ronnie, the double "U" PVC pipes, I think is perfected in the following drawing which I pillaged from another forum
    Nope, it's far from perfect (ask me how I know ). The first picture has the air-intake tube dangerously low. I would have prefered it much higher as in the second diagram. With this design (large PVC tube over a smaller one), I already know what's gonna happen, so I'd suggest you make a prototype before implementing it throughout the setup.

    Speaking of manifolds, I have one that's tied to the stair landing. It has provision for the Hi-blow pump mentioned previously, air-valves installed and catered for 4ft tanks. Cut, adjust and splint as necessary, with rubber hose since my tanks were only 10inches high (setup was from an ex-discus breeder). I'll take a pic of it later and it's yours to self collect. Don't have need for it in the foreseeable future since my soul mate isn't too crazy about me getting my fingers wet again while fiddling with feathers and toilet-training an adopted pooch.

    BTW, I've not been to any LFS for a long time, so what is this "Polyart side bulkhead"? If you're thinking of OHFs, why not incorporate a "Henri deBruyn mini wet/dry filters"? Keeps your water cooler and even higher oxygenation! (trust me to make thing more complicated )

    Quote Originally Posted by StanChung View Post
    I created a simple overflow system without the sump. Each tier had their own pump+overhead filter bulkhead. [You can opt for the side bulkhead filter like how it's done in Polyart with the mesh and gravel as described and used by Ronnie.] I prefer to have the overhead filter bulkhead as I can remove it to the bathroom to clean it without messing up the floor. I can also opt to use only air driven sponge filters if it's for fries
    Stan, I'm not synchronized with your thoughts. Please elaborate further. BTW, testing the limits is one thing. Going off the cliff is another!
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    In that case, opt for individual filtration at each tier. Drainage can be centralized via manifold.
    Great!!! one more tick in my confirmed list.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    Nope, it's far from perfect (ask me how I know ). The first picture has the air-intake tube dangerously low. I would have prefered it much higher as in the second diagram. With this design (large PVC tube over a smaller one), I already know what's gonna happen, so I'd suggest you make a prototype before implementing it throughout the setup.
    ok Ronnie.... I'll make your day! How do you know? Just a wild guess.. do you think the large PVC over small PVC will result eventually in clogs, and as a result (according to CK's formula) would mean floods and more floods!

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    Speaking of manifolds, I have one that's tied to the stair landing. It has provision for the Hi-blow pump mentioned previously, air-valves installed and catered for 4ft tanks. Cut, adjust and splint as necessary, with rubber hose since my tanks were only 10inches high (setup was from an ex-discus breeder). I'll take a pic of it later and it's yours to self collect. Don't have need for it in the foreseeable future since my soul mate isn't too crazy about me getting my fingers wet again while fiddling with feathers and toilet-training an adopted pooch.
    Wow! I was kinda waiting for an invite. Thanks in advanced Ronnie. PM me your address, and I'll arrange a convenient time with you to pick it up. I'll probably need a little more tutelage as to the Hi-blow pump, and many other things which you mentioned, which would probably make more sense to me if I see it in person.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    BTW, I've not been to any LFS for a long time, so what is this "Polyart side bulkhead"? If you're thinking of OHFs, why not incorporate a "Henri deBruyn mini wet/dry filters"? Keeps your water cooler and even higher oxygenation! (trust me to make thing more complicated )
    Will try and sneak a couple of photos when I'm there next. Will be pretty busy over the next couple of days though.
    Paul Apisto Noobie

  17. #17
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    ok. Let me list down the list of confirmed designs and aspect of the design I'm still considering.

    Firmed
    1. 13 individually partitioned tanks with underflow gaps
    2. Individual filtration for each tier
    3. PVC overflow pipes for drainage
    4. Drip system via aged water tank on 4th tier
    5. plumbed drainage and water supply

    Still to be Firmed
    1. Overhead filter or Cannister filter or a side bulkhead to contain the media?
    Paul Apisto Noobie

  18. #18
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    Paul, that design has to so with the siphon rate, small volume in the outer pipe, drain surge and gargle gargle gargle. To elaborate more is to spoil the fun of discovery!

    Also, please do not raise your expectations. I have drastically scaled down on fish-keeping and was almost out of the hobby. The 4ft setups were either sold/given/thrown away while the remnant 2ft tanks are nothing to gawk about. I won't blame you if you left wondering, "how can someone with nothing talk so much?"

    Anyway, here's a pic of the air manifold and since the segment of piping that connects to the Hiblow is obscured by the plants, here's how it looks like (ignore the aluminum poles).

    Oh, no photo taking please. Things are in a mess and I don't want to spoil CK's last good impression of "a neat & tidy corridor". Will PM you later. I just got back from work and desperately need the shut-eye.
    I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    Paul, that design has to so with the siphon rate, small volume in the outer pipe, drain surge and gargle gargle gargle. To elaborate more is to spoil the fun of discovery!

    Also, please do not raise your expectations. I have drastically scaled down on fish-keeping and was almost out of the hobby. The 4ft setups were either sold/given/thrown away while the remnant 2ft tanks are nothing to gawk about. I won't blame you if you left wondering, "how can someone with nothing talk so much?"
    You've been there, done it lah.... No snide remarks.. I promise. *chuckle*

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    Anyway, here's a pic of the air manifold and since the segment of piping that connects to the Hiblow is obscured by the plants, here's how it looks like (ignore the aluminum poles).
    This is great!!!! Hmm... this will allow me to put a sponge filter or an air stone in every tank.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonWill View Post
    Oh, no photo taking please. Things are in a mess and I don't want to spoil CK's last good impression of "a neat & tidy corridor". Will PM you later. I just got back from work and desperately need the shut-eye.
    Dang!
    Paul Apisto Noobie

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    Quote Originally Posted by craftsman View Post
    1. 13 individually partitioned tanks with underflow gaps
    Er. Ronnie/polyart was/is using gravel. If you intend to use ADA soil and such for apisto, it will breakdown, clog the gap/filter floss = flood.

    Quote Originally Posted by craftsman View Post
    5. plumbed drainage and water supply
    If you could use a solenoid or drip from the water reservoir and overflow to drain, you essentially do not need to do any water changes or recycle the water or need complicated filter system at all, Sponge filter is good enough to maintain water movement and quality. If you go to the extend of adding an overflow to each tank, then you have an added advantage that you isolate each tank. Otherwise, if you only have one overflow per tier, you will still need to share water among the tanks.

    Dripping with individual overflow will also allow the flexibility of implementing a modular system; i.e. instead of partition one big tank, you can use many smaller tanks, move them around, have different water level, cheap enough to replace them when scratched and most important to me is that smaller tanks have thinner glass which minimize distortion when viewing and taking pictures. etc.

    ck

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