rainbow longterm PH monitor

[robin]

Hi, just wodnering if anyone has experience with this device.
Doesn't seem to work for me.

it tells me to collect 2 ml of water from my tank. into the top cap.
then invert it and place it on the bottom plastic cylinder. after that attach to the aquarium submersed and after 10 mins should show me the PH value of my tank. it has remained at ph 7.5 for as long as it has been inside. about a week now. Co2 injection makes no diff.

Can anyone advise?

Regards
Robin

[vinz]

Check your pH and KH. See if the reading corresponds to the indicator's reading. Read the manual. Some will indicate a range of values that it can indicate.

Personally, been there, done that (with a JBL kit) and I find the indicators more trouble/less reliable then their worth. I still prefer KH and pH readings. If you don't do anything silly to mess with the tank pH/CO2/KH drastically, things should remain stable, if you follow a sensible routine (e.g. topping up KH with each water change, etc).

[robin]

thanks vinz, lucky neber buy the super ex long term monitor from ADA and dennerle.

Regards
Robin

[Simon]

robin, the bioplast looks like the ADA dropchecker

[robin]

Thanks for all the reply, but does anyone actually have experience with the rainbow longterm PH monitor thingy?

[sherchoo]

Vinz,
Robin device is a pH checker, not a CO2 indicator.

[vinz]

Sort of the same thing... the JBL one monitors either pH or CO2, depending on which you keep/know to be constant and the other you tweak.

[robin]

i am sort of confused now.

Thanks

[CK Yeo]

The indicator liquid is a pH indicator. There is no liquid indicator that I know of for CO2.

The device is a pH indicator and a indirect method for testing CO2.

First, when you add tank water into the thing, the colour indicates the pH of the tank water then.
When you inject CO2, the Co2 in the water will equilibrate with the CO2 in the air chamber and then equilibrate back with the liquid in the device.
So, therefore, inject Co2, pH drops, colour change. No Co2, pH dun drop, colour dun change. It is really a nice method, but rather insensitive and a long delay time before you see any changes. and it doesn't account for any pH changes due to stuff other than CO2...

So cannot use tap water to fill the chamber. and for accuracy, every water must change the liquid in the chamber to adjust for the change in buffering capacity of the water.

ck

[robin]

Thanks a lot CK, was really helpful to know, therefore, only solution for me is to get the electronic PH indicator that connects to seloniod?
Gonna cost a bomb!
Robin

[robin]

Saw this ph regulator that connects to seloniod today. Any comments about this kinds of devices?

Robin

[bclee]

Why you say the only solution is a pH controller?

Those stuff cost $$$ and not neccessary. Spend your $ somewhere else.

BC

[bclee]

Robin, after reading through the posts, I think you are very confused.

The normal pH test kit test the water directly from your tank. The pH indicator you have actually measure the CO2 level.

If you want an immediate pH reading, just us a pH test kit or a pH meter and test water sample directly from your tank.

The device you mentioned that hook up to the solenoid is a pH controller. You set the desire pH on the controller and the controller will control the CO2 flow to lower the pH to the desired level. This device is not neccessary.

All you have to do is to set the CO2 rate. Test for KH & pH(of the water, not the long term indicator). You use the CO2/pH/KH chart. Adjust the bubbling rate up or down to the proper CO2 ppm. Try to go for KH 3 and pH 6.5.

BC

[vinz]

To add on to bclee's reply...

After that, just reset your KH after each water change with KH-up or baking soda. Initially, test and note your KH after each water change, and raise to desired level accordingly. After a few times, you'll know how much you should raise the KH after each water change without test.

[robin]

Thanks for all the advice, so what is a good test kit that can test ph/kh/po4/no3 and wjere to get it? any ideas?

Thanks i think i am really confused now.


Regards
Robin

[vinz]

Any well stocked LFS should have them. Most ppl find that the Sera charts are easier to read. You need individual kits for each one.

Don't be confused. pH and KH is used to set your CO2 levels -> read this.

NO3 and PO4 are required nutrients and come freely from fish waste, decomposing stuff and leftover fishfood. Though they are required by plants, too much or too little of either can (but not WILL) contribute to algae problems. The recommended levels are 5 to 10 ppm of NO3 and 0.5 to 1 ppm of PO4. IME, higher NO3 is okay if you can keep your PO4 at recommended levels.

[robin]

does that mean i don't have to add no and po?
If yes how do i dose and with what?

Regards
Robin

[PeterGwee]

Robin, that depends very much on your bioload (no. of fishes in a tank), amount of feedings and etc. Use an NO3 and PO4 test kit to test whether you are on the lean side. You can buy KNO3 and potassium dihydrogen phosphate from Dr Mallick...check the LFS list for details.

[robin]

So what is the right level of no3 and po4?
This means if I have enough fishes inside i don't have to dose?

Robin

[sherchoo]

If you really want to be sure, check with a test kit the leevl of NO3 and PO4. Recomemded laeve is 10ppm and 0.1ppm respectively.

If not, take a look at the plants itself if it's showing any signs of deficiencies. Refer to Chuck Gadd's for more info.