15-20ppm is not aggressive. And I think it is a bad idea. Plants need more than just carbon dioxide to grow.
15-20ppm is not aggressive. And I think it is a bad idea. Plants need more than just carbon dioxide to grow.
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There's nothing wrong with high CO2 levels to the fish etc or the plants.
It's independant of O2.
The senario would set a deficiency, not an excess.
The increased CO2 would lead the plants to use up any and all NO3,K, P, Traces in the water, then they'd try and get whatever is in the substrate.
Eventually they will run out and stunt at which point algae would take over.
Non CO2 takes grow slower and this would take longer to occur and if you added some fish and algae eaters, then the slow amount of waste would balance with the slow amount of plant growth. But folks tend not like the non CO2 plant tanks. But they are quite nice but require patience and other horrible things
Regards,
Tom Barr
15-25ppm is ok, not aggresive. 15-25 bubbles per/sec is aggresive but crazy. It will kill ur fishes if not your shrimp first of CO2 poisoning. Doing an experimentin my planted tank - no Co2, no liquid fert and 8hrs lighting. Just good base fert, regular water change, minimum feeding of fish and high wattage lighting. So far plants flourishing though need help from 1 pleco and 10 Yamato to beat algae. Will post result that will change perception of Co2/liquid fert fertilisation soon.
My bubble rate is really way too fast for me to count. But according to the chart its like still 10 ppm. I have no idea why it is like this. The KH doesnt seem to change with CO2 injection. Can anyone help?
The KH will not change with CO2 injection. pH drops with CO2 injection.
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I thot the KH will go up if you have some coral chips kinda stuff in your tank....
Anywayz... its not present... still cant figure out whats going on...
I have been keeping aquaria with halides 1,5-2 watts/gal no CO2 or and CO2 and rich substrate (forest soil mixed with laterite) and no water ferts for 20 years I never had problems with algae but for the first 3-4 months until all excess nutrients were exhausted (looking back I think that someone could even avoid this stage by immersing the soil in water for 2-3 months and do regular water changes on that bucket before putting it in the aquarium). I have grown crypts, rotala macrandra, glosostigma,tenellus various other echinodorus,cabomba,hygros and lots lots others with this setups. Actually my tanks were the point of reference for lots of people here at that time and lots of beautiful aquaria were made this way, substrate would last for 2 1/2-3 years the most then it had to be changed apart of that there was no problem, even with the addition of CO2 there was no problem, it just depleted the tank faster, one technique par Tropica was adding clay balls to extend the substrates life cycle. I know this type of tanks lots
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