either BBA or staghorn, but look more like staghorn.
To get rid it cut the infected area. other than that we need more info about your tank spec
either BBA or staghorn, but look more like staghorn.
To get rid it cut the infected area. other than that we need more info about your tank spec
some info of my setup
Tank Dimensions (LxWxH, specify units): 5x2x2 ft
Lighting Intensity(No of Watts) : 4x80 watts
Number and type of Lighting (FL/PL/MH) : T5HO with individual reflector
Age of light bulbs : 1 months
No. of hours your lights are on : 8 hours daily
CO2 Injection Rate (bps) : more then 7, too fast unable to count.
Type of CO2 (DIY/Cylinder) :Cylinder
Method of Injection (e.g. Diffusor/Reactor) : NA external reactor
Liquid fertilisers Used (Product name. E.g. Seachem Flourish) : Wondergro Macro and Micro
Fertilization regime (Frequency and amount per dose) : alternate day, 10 pumps
Other fertilisers (Product name. E.g. Root Monster) : Root monster, Seachem Iron (2 caps weekly)
Other additives (Product name. E.g. Seachem Prime) : Seachem Prime
Type of Filter (overhead/internal/canister, Product name/model if possible) : Eheim 2260
When was the filter last washed : New setup about a month
Filter media used : Eheim substrat pro, CR, Biohome+
When was the media last changed :N.A
What was changed : N.A
Age of setup (i.e. since initial setup or last major re-do ) : 3 to 4 weeks
Water change frequency : weekly
Amount changed : 50%
Water surface movement (None/gentle/turbulent) : Fan
Circulation (None/gentle/turbulent) : gentle
Tank Temperature : 26 to 28
Chemical Properties (Fill what you can)
-------------------------------------
KH (dKH):
GH (dGH):
pH : 6.3
NH4 (ppm):
NO2 (ppm):
NO3 (ppm):
PO4 (ppm):
Fe (ppm):
Bioload (Number and type of fish and plants)
------------------------------------------
80% planted, about 180 rummy and neon tetra
Thanks!
Last edited by tco; 7th Dec 2009 at 21:24.
You might want to read this blog by Dusko Bojic:
http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/
I used to have this on a particular Java Fern leaf, which I cut off and discarded. Never had it afterwards.
Fish.. Simply Irresistable
Back to Killies... slowly.
No. of hours your lights are on : 8 hours daily
Age of setup (i.e. since initial setup or last major re-do ) : 3 to 4 weeks
Cut the lights on period because 3-4 weeks old tank is new and pretty new. Btw, may i see the overview of your 5 feet.
Plants are not making food. Fertilization looks fine to me.
CO2 in PPM at 1 hr after lights on and 1 hr before lights off - ? Please confirm.
colin | The Wilderness and Forest | FTS
Bro, here the picture.
Nerite snails helped with my staghorn problem. Shrimps are useless since the staghorns are somehow able to stick very tightly to a surface. The shrimps cannot remove it from the root whereas the nerites scrapped it off completely
It looks like even blyxa caught that algae. Quite bad to me.
U need to confirm your CO2. During light period need to have 20-30ppm. Therefore, it is advisable to turn on the CO2 before the lights come on. And the plant can be ready to make food. However, if your CO2 distribution is good, you are good even if your light and CO2 turn on together.
Lastly, your light is JUST RIGHT. 320W over 120 gal of water (I assume)
Therefore, don't fuss over the fertilizer. To me, it is about how we dose them than the product itself.
Try to reduce lighting period. Remove the algae manually. Do water changes twice a week. Monitor if the plant is growing? If plant is making food and growing , it means the reduced light period is good. Why would I want to leave the light on for long and let the algae to capitalize ?? Remember, intensity is more important than duration. Then.. slowly get back to once a week water change when things become normal.
colin | The Wilderness and Forest | FTS
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