eviltrain's Shrimp Rack Project Alpha

[bai]

wah, brother bai
you having bigger project than me
your case will be overflow box/pipe also.
schematic will be :
filter outlet -> chiller inlet -> chiller outlet -> top tank -> over flow box/pipe -> lower tank -> filter inlet.

3 x 2 x 1 = 6 cubic feet
12 cubic feet = 170 litres
2 tanks = 340 litres.
you need at least 1/6 horse power chiller to cool 340 litres of water.
as for the canister, you need 1500-1800 litres per hour at least.

Ya I got my chiller 1/2HP now only waiting to get 1 more tank and thinking which canister to get.

You mention 1500 - 1800L/Hrs then it will be Ehiem Pro III 2080 liao 1700L/Hrs.

Just my personal opinion. I believe if you just add another 2026/28 to pump from bottom to top tank will be more than enough. Only one canister need to be connected to the chiller, the water will circulate and balance off eventually.
I think this may be an easier and cheaper option.

Now my 2026 is running wif 1/10Hp chiller for 1 tank 3ft X 2ft X 1ft.

Next is a new setup of 2 tanks wif another chiller. That why I headache dun know wat canister to get lor.

[eviltrain]

CRS is poisonous, haha.
-some updates-

it was a very wet night in my room last night. tried out my fully pipe/piped connector over flow system ( without glue ) well, it works too well that i need a control valve to slow down the the out flow. i will try to draw out in CAD format.
-thanks for viewing-

[monster_88]

Now my 2026 is running wif 1/10Hp chiller for 1 tank 3ft X 2ft X 1ft.

Next is a new setup of 2 tanks wif another chiller. That why I headache dun know wat canister to get lor.

Not sure if I interpret correctly,
A) you'll be adding 2 more, which means eventually there'll be 3 X 3ft tanks? If so, then the total volume is about 170 X 3 = 510litres; chiller will probably need to be upsized to be about 1/4hp. - One option that I believe may work is: One 2026/28 for each tank (total 3 for this case), only 2 sets will drive chillers (ie. one for existing and another for your new chiller), the 3rd canister purely for filtering and water circulation only. All filter inlets draws water from bottom tank and outlet to individual tanks. 3rd level overflow to 2nd level and 2nd level overflow to lowest tank. Advantage of this setup is even is one canister / chiller fail, system will still be temporarily operational; albeit a higher load for the lone chiller (esp if left with the 1/10hp one, won't sustain too long).
B) New setup only add one more, so is still 2 X 3ft. - Similarly, one canister for each tank. Options may be either upsize chiller and use any one of the canister to drive; other canister purely for circulation only. Or add another chiller to be driven by the 2nd canister 2 chillers w 2 canisters) - added advantage is as mentioned in (A).
C) Regardless whether 2 or 3 tanks, resize all necessay equipment and upsize 1 big set for all tanks. I suspect it may be more costly, furthermore, with only one big canister operating, even in-flow / outflow distribution to the different tanks will need balancing. No contigency at all; one fail all fail.

Personally I see advantage in "casade" setups in terms of contingency and ease of maintenance in the long run. Have not consider cost implications, you may like to compare for yourself.
Just sharing some personal opinion, if I have made any wrong assumptions or interpret wrongly.... please pardon me.
Cheers

[monster_88]

CRS is poisonous, haha.
-some updates-

it was a very wet night in my room last night. tried out my fully pipe/piped connector over flow system ( without glue ) well, it works too well that i need a control valve to slow down the the out flow. i will try to draw out in CAD format.
-thanks for viewing-

Bro,
Usually it is the inflow (to the tank) that may need to be adjusted, as the system works simply based on the condition that water only flows when there is an overflow (which is dependent on inflow). If i understand correctly, I presume that your problem is due to the rate of outflow not capable to meet that of the inflow. Will you consider increasing the size of the U tube that joins the two boxes (or even use 2 U tubes instead).
Nevertheless, restricting outflow will worsen the situation as it impedes the function of the overflow system. Therefore, you may want to either reduce inflow (reduce efficiency) or improve outflow with bigger pipes / increased head.

Cheers

[bai]

Not sure if I interpret correctly,
A) you'll be adding 2 more, which means eventually there'll be 3 X 3ft tanks? If so, then the total volume is about 170 X 3 = 510litres; chiller will probably need to be upsized to be about 1/4hp. - One option that I believe may work is: One 2026/28 for each tank (total 3 for this case), only 2 sets will drive chillers (ie. one for existing and another for your new chiller), the 3rd canister purely for filtering and water circulation only. All filter inlets draws water from bottom tank and outlet to individual tanks. 3rd level overflow to 2nd level and 2nd level overflow to lowest tank. Advantage of this setup is even is one canister / chiller fail, system will still be temporarily operational; albeit a higher load for the lone chiller (esp if left with the 1/10hp one, won't sustain too long).
B) New setup only add one more, so is still 2 X 3ft. - Similarly, one canister for each tank. Options may be either upsize chiller and use any one of the canister to drive; other canister purely for circulation only. Or add another chiller to be driven by the 2nd canister 2 chillers w 2 canisters) - added advantage is as mentioned in (A).
C) Regardless whether 2 or 3 tanks, resize all necessay equipment and upsize 1 big set for all tanks. I suspect it may be more costly, furthermore, with only one big canister operating, even in-flow / outflow distribution to the different tanks will need balancing. No contigency at all; one fail all fail.

Personally I see advantage in "casade" setups in terms of contingency and ease of maintenance in the long run. Have not consider cost implications, you may like to compare for yourself.
Just sharing some personal opinion, if I have made any wrong assumptions or interpret wrongly.... please pardon me.
Cheers

Ya I running my lowest tank wif 2026 & 1/10Hp chiller, the overflow is only for the top tier tank to middle tank running 1/2HP chiller only issue now is 2028 can do the pumping of the water up to the top tier anot, scare the flowrate will be weak. Thats why now think to get 2028 or 2080 to run the new setup project.

[monster_88]

Ya I running my lowest tank wif 2026 & 1/10Hp chiller, the overflow is only for the top tier tank to middle tank running 1/2HP chiller only issue now is 2028 can do the pumping of the water up to the top tier anot, scare the flowrate will be weak. Thats why now think to get 2028 or 2080 to run the new setup project.

I see what you mean. One way is to confirm is to use your existing 2026 to pump from bottom tank to top tank and see if the flow is sufficient.
Anyway, I think it won't be an issue since the specified Hmax for 2026/28 is 2m.

[eviltrain]

The key is by not rushing into fixing it up fast. Do your calculation well first.

My overflow system ( pipe version ) is now in theory phase. please help me by commenting if there's anything wrong.

[kendrick_86]

lol.. autocad sei...

[eviltrain]

, happen to use it

[stormhawk]

If you're planning to do an overflow system of pipes, you might want to view this blogsite beforehand:

http://dinardiengineering.com/blog/?p=34

The system the guy is utilising has a fail-safe device to prevent leakages.

[BFG]

The key is by not rushing into fixing it up fast. Do your calculation well first.

My overflow system ( pipe version ) is now in theory phase. please help me by commenting if there's anything wrong.

How is the water going to be moved from the UGF up and over the tank?

[monster_88]

The key is by not rushing into fixing it up fast. Do your calculation well first.

My overflow system ( pipe version ) is now in theory phase. please help me by commenting if there's anything wrong.

Nice drawing!. I believe the design is theoretically sound, but for it to work, there is a minimum head (level above the discharge point) required for the water to flow: the ht of the head will depend on the ht of the U portion before the discharge, size of piping (rate of outflow), etc. Therefore, you'll probably need to adjust and compensate the ht of the discharge point for it. You'll probably to run up the system to estimate the required head based on your pipe size and pump rate first, before you can set the level of your discharge point. But, changes to pump flowrate will eventually affect the water level in the tank.
Just my opinion, please advise if I'm wrong. cheers

[eviltrain]

Brother stormhawk, thanks for the website. i gave me a better idea of a fail safe over flow.

Brother BFG, same logic will apply but there will be a part where water will stop flowing at around 4 cm ( minimum water level ), siphon will still exist until the external filter canister starts again.

My Over Flow Pipe System and Undergravel System

(sorry, you guys might have to keep turning your heads.)


Dry run fix up.

water flows as siphon starts. i even test the over flow system when filter stop working ( yes, it look very high tec. )

final position of the Over Flow Pipe will be.

The front where the inlet pipe of the over flow pipe stuck to the undergravel.

Outlet of the over flow pipe system.

the pdf is the updated version of my overflow pipe system.

-please comment and thanks for viewing-

[eviltrain]

Nice drawing!. I believe the design is theoretically sound, but for it to work, there is a minimum head (level above the discharge point) required for the water to flow: the ht of the head will depend on the ht of the U portion before the discharge, size of piping (rate of outflow), etc. Therefore, you'll probably need to adjust and compensate the ht of the discharge point for it. You'll probably to run up the system to estimate the required head based on your pipe size and pump rate first, before you can set the level of your discharge point. But, changes to pump flowrate will eventually affect the water level in the tank.
Just my opinion, please advise if I'm wrong. cheers

Yap, thats a minor flaw, but the website which brother stormhawk had suggest give me a better view one what i can improve in my design ( actually not mine, i'm just keep on improvising )

[bai]

I see till eye blur blur liao....if its me i dun think i can do the DIY.

[monster_88]

IMPRESSED!! ... Not sure how you managed to do it, but from the picture, it seems to work very well and the discharge point is also very near the actual water level...no head required at all. Cool..... need to stare at your pictures awhile more to try to understand how you can over come that. kowtow ...

[eviltrain]

bro monster88,
i just uploaded the pdf of my overflow pipe layout. its more easy to see/imagine this way. thanks for your comments . don't need to kowtow to me la. i'm just sharing me experiences and ideas with fellow aquatic lovers

[eviltrain]

i hereby announce my shrimp rack is up for cycling

YouTube- my shrimp rack setup

[bai]

wow u really good in DIY.

Tks for sharing the video now then I know roughly how it works....lol

Now I headache dun know wan to split my tank like urs anot. 1 more headache thing is I checked the price for Ehiem 2076 flowrate 1650L....wow is $500+ pocket big big hole liao.

[eviltrain]

brother bai,
thank for coming back for my thread, haha.
by the way. the drawing i send you yesterday is similar to what your design. you can use it as a reference.
as for your external canister, have you ever think of getting just a external pump to create the flow? (your external canister unplug)