You can try increasing your CO2 level to within 20-30ppm range or dosing a bit of KH2PO4(Phosphate), seachem phosphate or fleet enema. Get it to 1ppm of PO4 to see the result.
You can try increasing your CO2 level to within 20-30ppm range or dosing a bit of KH2PO4(Phosphate), seachem phosphate or fleet enema. Get it to 1ppm of PO4 to see the result.
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
my bubble rate is already 4 to 5 bps
im not sure how to calculate co2 ppm though haha. my tank is 4 x 2 x 2
i was thinking i dosed too much Dr mallick in you think?
Get a pH test kit or test pen(test pen beter imo.) as well as a KH test kit to find your CO2 level.
Link to CO2 calculator
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
mine is around 10ppm
Too little...add more CO2 and get it within 20-30ppm range during your lighting period. If you don't get this right, algae will be with you.[]
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
thanks man
no wonder my water is a little greenish and my plants are not bubbling
already upped the CO2 so waiting to see wat happens
thanks again =)
what are you using to dissolve the CO2? at 4-5 bps, you need one of the better reactors to be efficient. Usually the taiwanese types just fill with air and aren't very good for high bubble rates.
Allen
Oops...greenish water...Oh hell...get a clear glass and fill it with tank water (Nope, I'm not asking you to drink..LOL [] ). Look through it...do you still find the water greenish? If it is greenish...wah lah...green water.
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
don't think anyone can prevent green spot algae from growing on tank walls.
you'll need to scrape it off once a week or at most once every fortnightly.
maybe you can try reducing your lights or lighting duration a little.
thomas liew
I have kept it off for 3-4 months in a CO2 enriched tank.
I scrub my glass about every two weeks whether it needs it or not. I seldom get much and only if I do not dose regularly will I get any spot algae. Namely some soft green film and primarly diatoms. You cannot see the diatoms without a scope etc but they are there.
Algae eaters like smaller pleco sp help take care of any of the diatoms/soft greens so the spot algae is the only thing left these will not eat. Keeping up on the nutrients reduces the amount.
Rocks get some spot algae, that I'll agree is pretty tough to fully stop.
Regards,
Tom Barr
i increased the bubble rate already realised not enuff CO2 according to the chart and shortened the light hours from 8 to 6 hours and see how it goes.
Chan from Nature also told me to change water every 3 days to slowly get rid of the green water .
Hi
Can someone please advise if the "cure" against green spots algae is the same as those found on leaves? I understand that older leaves will definitely have them but are there any ways to reduce/delay it's occurance?
The problem is my C Wendii will have these green spots and lead me to remove them. As such, I have problem achieving those bushy look I see in the magazines and exhibition tanks. Thanks!
Cheers!
Too much light over them comes to mind...too little PO4?
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
Yes, it's the same solution, whether old or new leaves. The more we didn't take care of the nutrients, the easier the leaves get spotted ones, regardless of new/old.
My mini nanas used to get it rather quickly. Since I adjust my fertilization, it takes rather long before I find any, even when it's placed rather close to the light source.
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